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Old May 22, 2014 | 05:57 AM
  #1  
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bed compatibility

Hello,

I damaged the bed on my 2000 F250 Superduty 4x4. I've located a replacement bed from a 2013/2014. I'm pretty sure the 6 bolt mount points are identical between the two years an the electrical connections to the taillights should be the same, but I'm checking in just to be sure.

Any issues I should be aware of?

Art
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 06:04 AM
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Hello c11802362. Welcome to FTE and to the Super Duty forum.

The electrical connections will not be the same. You may or may not have fuel filler door issues, depending on the donor truck and recipient truck.

The fender opening shapes are different, but that is just a cosmetic issue,
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by c11802362
Hello,

I damaged the bed on my 2000 F250 Superduty 4x4. I've located a replacement bed from a 2013/2014. I'm pretty sure the 6 bolt mount points are identical between the two years an the electrical connections to the taillights should be the same, but I'm checking in just to be sure.

Any issues I should be aware of?

Art
Welcome to FTE Art. Like Stuart said, going with the newer style bed will have several cosmetic issues(body lines, fender wells, etc). If you want an exact fitthen your best bet is to look for a 99-07 bed.
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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I had to put one on my 99 f35 when I had it and any bed from 99-2010 will fit your truck just fine and everything will match up. the 2011 and up bed will fit but the body lines wont match.
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:29 AM
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thanks for the help

Originally, I was set on an exact year replacement, but a) finding a 2000 bed and tailgate, that b) wasn't beat up, and c) was a longbed became harder than winning powerball.

However, a local shop here that replaces boxes for stakebeds on commercial vehicles has new, pristine boxes and gates and if I could live with the slight body style differences, I could do the entire replacement job (paint, install) for much less than buying something in my year.

I appreciate the comments about the electrical connectors - I'll get going on rewiring the plugs

Art
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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Can we get before and after pictures?
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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pictures before and after

sure - it'll be a few weeks
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by c11802362
Originally, I was set on an exact year replacement, but a) finding a 2000 bed and tailgate, that b) wasn't beat up, and c) was a longbed became harder than winning powerball.

However, a local shop here that replaces boxes for stakebeds on commercial vehicles has new, pristine boxes and gates and if I could live with the slight body style differences, I could do the entire replacement job (paint, install) for much less than buying something in my year.

I appreciate the comments about the electrical connectors - I'll get going on rewiring the plugs

Art
Try finding a short bed with that criteria in the rust belt...oh and include no rust...game over lol. I spent $2500 getting the bed patched and resprayed vs getting a new short bed which was 3-4k.

Like other have said though the electrical connections are not the same however you can reuse the old tail lights in the newer bed if you really don't feel like splicing in the new reverse bulb pigtail. Also i believe you can get the old filler neck to fit the newer bed just requires some muscles lol.

If you need any diagrams for some reason let me know i have everything form 97-08 on these trucks (08-15 is all the same for the bed area)
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 09:32 PM
  #9  
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the best laid plans....

Hello again...

When I last posted, I expected to have the bed installed and back on the road in a few weeks. Well a lot has happened.

* the owner of the shop getting me the new bed was killed in a car wreck
* his kids are trying to figure out the business
* the frame and most of the underframe components are horribly corroded

So, I'm in the process of soaking all the threads to pull off everything I can. I'll replace the obvious stuff (shocks, U-joints, brake hoses, fuel hoses, etc), then I'll wire brush all the rust and loose scale, followed by conversion coating and probably a paint topcoat.

My immediate problem is getting the driveshaft off - the bolts are rusted on and I couldn't get them off - so if the liquid wrench fails, I'll heat the yokes to hopefully break the rust bond.

By the way, I was chasing the threaded Tinnerman nuts that hold the bed to the frame and found something very bizarre. The thread pitch is 13. I have a 1/2-13 tap, which ran cleanly through the nuts. It felt too loose, so I measured the bolt shanks. They are close to 9/16. However, there is no such thing as a 9/16-13 thread. I checked the threads with a metric pitch gauge and they don't match.

Did Ford create a one off thread size?

Art
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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I saw this truck where I was loading yesterday but I didn't get a chance to talk to the guy. I was going to ask him what all he had to do to switch it over, but I couldn't find him and I had to get on the road. But at least it can be done.

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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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you can keep your old taillights and swap over the harness and have no issues otherwise its an easy splice in. We are a truck upfitter and sell off these new beds all the time. it will bolt up 1999 to 2015 beds and bumpers both.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 10:23 PM
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I'll just add that a set of fender flares will hide the body line differences fairly well.
 
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