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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Just getting started..more questions.

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Old May 20, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Just getting started..more questions.

I'm following the advice of several members and I'm driving my '48 F1 Flathead V8 and having a BLAST!!

Some of you guys suggested to drive the truck and "let the truck tell you what it needs".

Three things have me curious as hell.

1. I've driven my share of manual tranny's. This one likes to chatter a bit from 1st gear. No matter how many tries I make..seems to want to chatter. Is it me and I need to get use to the truck's personality or some other issue? Clutch?

2. The truck starts great in the morning with full choke and gas pedal to floor..although I don't hear to many cranks. Usually starts right up (new battery). But after five or ten minutes doesn't want to turn over without a fight. Sometimes it seems I'm going to run the battery down. Cranks are slow and sometimes weak. So far I've managed to escape trouble but not sure for how long. Should I be chocking a warm engine? Am I hitting dead spots on the starter, brushes etc? I mean you would think engine starting is an issue when engine is cold? Any thoughts?

3. After driving modern cars how do I determine if steering on my '48 is an issue or is normal for its vintage?
Front end is probably all standard equipment if not original. At 40-45mph front end floats a bit. Should I be concerned?

Again folks, please be patient with me as I'm trying to "get up to speed" on matters.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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You likely need a new clutch. Did the truck sit a long time? If so the pressure plate may have rusted. Try giving it a lot of revs and slipping it pretty good once or twice to clean it up. If it's not the clutch, it could be u-joints, or motor/trans mounts.

If you aren't used to flatheads, it may just seem it is cranking too slow. They never really spin fast, but they also usually start in a couple of revolutions. Check your timing, it may be a little too advanced.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:58 PM
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Jack under the axle until both wheels are off ground. Put 2 C clamps on the frame one on each side of the ptman arm, locking it in place. Check the wear in the steering box by trying to turn the steering wheel. If a point on the wheel rim moves more than 2" the box needs attention. Grab the tire at 3 and 9 and try turning them like steering the truck. If there is any noticable movement look until you can isolate where the looseness is and replace those parts. Put a 4' bar under the tire and while lifting push and pull on the top of the tire. Any appreciable movement kingpins are needing replacement. If everything is tight order a set of caster shims from Mid Fifty, Classic Haulers or your favorite parts house. Put them in between the spring and axle oriented so they are tipping the top of the axle back (increasing caster). Replace the spring eye bushings and shackle pins. If you do all this and still steers "funny" put on radial tires. After that just figure it's the nature of the beast. (Don't forget to remove the c-clamps before driving!!!)
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 06:10 AM
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On the starting issue I would suggest taking apart each electrical connection in the starting circuit and cleaning them and putting them back together.
These are the connections......Battery....starter.....generator. ...coil.....distributor.....engine ground.......starter button......engine ground to body(if you don't have one add one) and last but not least, the one that drove me nuts trying to find the problem, the ignition switch
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 06:12 AM
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I forgot the starter solenoid and the voltage regulator
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by fordf348
On the starting issue I would suggest taking apart each electrical connection in the starting circuit and cleaning them and putting them back together.
These are the connections......Battery....starter.....generator. ...coil.....distributor.....engine ground.......starter button......engine ground to body(if you don't have one add one) and last but not least, the one that drove me nuts trying to find the problem, the ignition switch
Yup, want make certain that your generator is working in addition to the connection points mentioned.
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 08:00 AM
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Regarding my starting issue.
I'm still curious why the problem occurs with a warm engine?
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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Is your battery 6 or 12 volt? Either way I would clean up everything as
said. And pull the starter, take it apart and clean or over haul it. It's not
that hard a job. And parts are out there. Brushes and bushings.
Folks here can walk you through it.
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:43 AM
  #9  
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it's a new 6v battery,connections and regulator.
I guess I'll start with distributor, plugs etc and work my way down to the starter and selinoid.
Thanks.
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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maybe I'll go to the generator before the starter. However, The dashboard gauge, for what it's worth reads charging when driving.
Thanks again!
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:53 AM
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Are the battery cables sized for a 6v system?
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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Your starting issue may be more than just electrical. Do you know the engine temp when running. An old motor thats been sitting tends to have clogged radiators,plugged water passages and such. If your engine wont turn well when hot maybe its seizing slightly from tighter clearance than a cold engine. check oil for water, and compression test, Flush system , and carburetor to see its flooding cylinders
 
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