Is that a later EGR setup on the MAF truck? I have never seen that on a Ford one like mine.

 

W/o looking to see who posted, I clicked the link and started looking at the pics, thinking to myself "Geez, this looks almost identical to Steve's raped bronco!!" Then I realized it IS Steve's raped bronco!! LOL
I didn't realize the different setups of the EGR valve, even while hearing ppl talk about their's being connected to the manifold. I would say just have someone weld in a bung on the header for the EGR tube. Sounds simple enough to me, but in practicality... I donno. But I would definitely keep the EGR at all cost.
Luke

 

OK guys, check this one out. It was written by a guy at UC Santa Cruz who has spent much time smogging cars.

http://people.ucsc.edu/~kbrandt/mustang/smog.shtml

I hope this clears up a few misconceptions.

Regards, Robert.

 

Good article. Contrary to what he says at the end of it, I didn't notice any gross errors.

 

Yes, the engine actually has the very rare dual AIR injection and EGR in the exhaust manifolds. I believe this system was on the heavy duty's and the OBD-II engines. However, my engine is still the old EEC-IV setup. If you look at the pictures that Steve83 posted, my manifolds look just like that. The EGR goes into the front of the manifold and the AIR injection is connected on both manifolds just before the collector.


I have pulled the fittings and it almost appears to be a metric thread, however I shouldn't even say since I only took a quick look at the threads since they appeared to be slightly different that what I am used to.

The idea of fabricating some sort of tube may be the way to go. But would it be easier to drill into the headers were the current EGR connects to and weld in a bung or just route it back behind the collector and connect the EGR there? What about tube material? I guess im not quite sure were to get metal tubes custom bent with ends on them. I do, however, work at an industrial hose and rubber distributor so I may be able to fabricate something up if it wasn't for the heat. Since those manifolds can get red hot sometimes I know of no hose off hand that can handle that. We carry various exhaust hoses, but they generally don't get much less than 1" diameter ID.

On the headers, I havn't actually ordered them yet. I decided to hold off till I can figure out what to do with the EGR. I was, and still am planning on buying the hooker competition long tubes. But what held me back for so long was to go with ceramic coating for $320 or the black metal for 170. Do these things heat up considerably during use?

Hit Man:
You were talking about using a restrictor on the EGR. I may have to try this if you achieve any results. This info makes me believe that completely removing the EGR would not be tolerated by the PCM.

 

They do heat up fairly nicely! I went with the nice pretty black ones, ignorant of the ceramic ones altogether. I think I may have seen the doubled price and ran!! But you could and I would recommend that if you don't get the ceramic ones, then you should at least grab some high heat paint and do it yourself. I did not paint mine, and the lower most portion of the primaries back to the collectors are all rusty now, less than 2 years later since putting them on. The upper portion of the primaries is still nice and black, but I guess the salt, grime, water... etc took it's toll on the lower half.

 

Since, you work with hoses this should be simple. You can use the same fittings. If you can come up with adaptors to get you from the hole in the exhaust manifold to 37° JIC flare and do the same thing on the EGR valve end, then it should be no problem to come up with a piece of tubing flared both ends and bent to fit. If the ends don't line up perfectly, the flared fittings will usually draw in an 1/8" or so without a problem. Bending tube in this size (3/4?) does take a power bender but your shop should have some contacts to help you get that done.

If you're going to have to weld a bung on the headers, order them pianted, get the welding done, then send them to Jet-Hot or one of their competitors for ceramic coating.

 

I'd get the cermaic coated ones for sure. The heat will stay in the primaries better and they will be very resistant to rust. I'd get the Jet Hot'd, if these are going to be your last set of headers.

I got the black ones, stripped them, hit them with a few coats of 1400* paint, and installed them as I am going to do a 351W swap in the future. When I get 351W headers they will be coated.

A restrictor just limits the EGR flow into the intake for a bit more power, less carbon, and better running. I read that EGR is off at idle, WOT, and over ~3300rpms too. So...it is just a part throttle thing.

I still think it would be easier to get an 87-90 or so intake manifold and swap that. That way you will have a factory EGR setup, not a weld job on the header. The Inspectors will also be less suspicious of that too.

 

So on those models the EGR actually hooks up to the lower intake manifold? Suprisingly enough, I have not paid enough attention to my 302 to know. But now that I think about it, that must be right because i remember the EGR piping going between the upper intake plenum and the valve covers. Only problem with that idea is that I already have several hours into custom painting (looks quite nice I might add) on the intake. I really don't have to worry about inspection because we don't have any in ND. I have actually never even heard anyone in my whole life talk about going to the sniffer. I guess I just hope I never move to a state that requires it on my model but chances of that happening are slim and none. I was kind of thinking anyway that those inspectors kind of frown on headers, especially the LT's. Not even to mention my loud exhaust with catless true dual pipes.

I did check on that thread for the EGR this afternoon, however we were very bussy and I wasn't finding what I was looking for. At first it decieved me because of the single notch on the hex bolt which could make it SAE 45 degree but of course that is much to coarse of a thread to be the one.

 

I'm pretty sure it's either an M27 x 2 DIN straight thread or a G3/4-14 BSPP (not BSPT) Avoid the "Type E" fittings setup for the EOlastic seal, they don't work well with crush washers, if you can get "Type B" ittings, they seal metal to metal without the crush washer. If you need the crush washer it should be an AN901-12

 

Well if you are catless and do not have to worry about emissions, I say then go for making that work off the header primary.

Shouldn't be too much work if you have access to the fittings. The metal on the header is about 16awg so I'd go with a MIG or a TIG welder to keep the heat down when doing it. No point in burning a hole in your new headers.

 

I think I found the right thread today. Our part numbers are quite different, but I believe it was british parallel pipe (BSPP). HOWEVER, we didn't have the correct adapter to make the seal so I will have to order it. NO biggie.

Thanks for all the help guys!! Its much appreciated. But by the time my headers are installed on the truck, they could just as well be made of gold for all I know. I will probably just have the EGR connection welded in when I take the headers to have the O2 bung welded in. I still havn't got a price quote back from Jet-Hot but im guessing that will be more than just buying the headers ceramic coated. Oh well.

 

It will probably cost around $200-250 to get the headers coated from JetHot.

When you install them, spring for better gaskets and hardware...installing headers in something you want to do once.

I run copper collector gaskets with Lock-Tite and lock washers on them. I used Mr Gasket UltraSeal header gaskets with ARP 12 point bolts and Lock-Tite on the header to head.

Also there is a little heat riser on the passanger side No 4 primary, if you revome it (like I did) be VERY careful. I accidently make ~1/4" hole and had a super nasty header leak. It was a ***** to weld up with the header on the block.

Another thing, if you starter is old/going bad...go ahead and swap it or go for a mini starter. I really have no idea how to get that out now that I have the LT's on mine.

 

Just so I don't mislead somebody in the future about that thread type...it is NOT bristish parallel pipe. The thread is actually Kamatsu 30 degree flare parallel pipe. IT is identical to the Japanese style except for the threads, which is a finer metric version. However, this is only on the end that hooks to the EGR. The other end actually has a 12MP-12MJ adapter in the middle of it. 3/4" pipe thread screwing into the manifold and 3/4" 37 degree JIC going into the EGR pipe. You could also probably get away with using SAE 45 degree instead of the JIC from the looks of the seat inside the pipe.

Last question on the headers, I promise!!
On the stock setup there is a support bar that extends from the upper intake plenum down to the passenger side manifold bolt and attaches there. Does this work the same on the LT headers?

I think my starter is just fine. However it is always hard to tell. A friend of mine had to replace his at 114k. Just started acting up one day, then went about 3 days later. I would guess my starter is original, but I don't know for sure. At 160 dollars its just one more thing to add to the list, however, removing the headers just to replace the thing does concern me.

 

Unless you do some harsh off roading, it's not necessary. I currently don't have mine on, and I've hit some hard jolts, in some light off roading I've done. It's almost impossible to line up anyway. Hit Man may have hooked it back up, but again I didn't. I'm also running the Edel. intake and it has, I believe, 4 less upper to lower manifold bolts.

I just replaced my starter a few months ago, and it was not impossible to do. A bit tricky, yes, but not impossible. Just took a few extensions with swivel ends to do it.