Towing
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 60
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Towing
The cooler came today. I am a little confused on one thing. Does this cooler take the place of the oem cooler? Is the oem cooler simply disconnected and the lines routed to the TruCool cooler and the factory cooler left unhooked? Also, if I mount cooler in front of rad/condenser will it cut down on airflow thru the rad? The truck has never even acted like it wanted to overheat and I want to be careful in this area. I believe I can mount it below the rad behind the bumper in line with the large cooling holes in bumper, but it looks like bumper might have to come off to do this. Also , please tell me more about this air filter deal. What is involved and what good will it do? I haven't heard anything about it. Thanks, Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
I didn't see that you've done the simplest mod of all, the "6337" air filter replacement. It should be done with the downpipe replacement, but that is slightly more involved. The air filter replacement makes a noticeable difference on its own though.
Your gauges alone are probably the most important thing to have done. Keep that trans cool and happy.
Your gauges alone are probably the most important thing to have done. Keep that trans cool and happy.
6637 Mod 1 by IDMooseMan - Ford-Trucks
I added the NAPA exhaust elbow after painting it blue.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 311
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From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
I've read if you have the stock trans cooler that goes in the enginecoolant radiator, you put the new aftermarket cooler between the stock output and trans return. The trans return line should be the rear most of the two.
I've also read there won't be enough pressure to drive three coolers, for what that's worth.
I've also read there won't be enough pressure to drive three coolers, for what that's worth.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
I have my aux cooler hooked up like triskadek said... radiator cooler first, then aftermarket, then to transmission. One thought... since the aux cooler probably will be higher than the pan, it will drain into the pan with the engine shut down. Not a problem if you check level and fill with engine running and in park, but if you check level with engine stopped, the new cooler will drain. Then when you start up, the fluid level will go down. So on the two hoses to the new aux cooler- warm in from the radiator and cold to transmission- see if you can get a "high" spot in each that holds fluid in the aux cooler with engine off.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,111
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From: Yreka, CA
I'm far from an auto guru but I think our local expert suggested to not run tandem coolers. If I remember correctly he said you would be better off replacing the stock cooler as adding another one restricts flow. Hopefully someone with a better memory will chime in here.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Towing
If I were to add the aux cooler to the exiting factory setup, how would I do it? If I install T's in the lines to go to the aux cooler , I'm afraid the sharp bend the T's would cause would restrict flow. I still don't know if I should by-pass the factory "in rad cooler" and just have the aux cooler or not. I'm sure there are guys out there that have run into this before. With the stock set-up , my trans temps are running around 150/160 degrees. I have not pulled my RV since I installed the temp gauge, so I don't know yet what the temps will be pulling the camper. I really need some good direction here, and I know I am in the right place to get it. Thanks, Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,111
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From: Yreka, CA
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: AZ
Rick is right again. You need the 'water to air' cooler in the radiator along with the 'air to air' cooler. Go in and out on the radiator with the out going to the aux cooler. Then from there to the rear trans cooler line.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 13
I have my aux cooler hooked up like triskadek said... radiator cooler first, then aftermarket, then to transmission. One thought... since the aux cooler probably will be higher than the pan, it will drain into the pan with the engine shut down. Not a problem if you check level and fill with engine running and in park, but if you check level with engine stopped, the new cooler will drain. Then when you start up, the fluid level will go down. So on the two hoses to the new aux cooler- warm in from the radiator and cold to transmission- see if you can get a "high" spot in each that holds fluid in the aux cooler with engine off.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 13
If I were to add the aux cooler to the exiting factory setup, how would I do it? If I install T's in the lines to go to the aux cooler , I'm afraid the sharp bend the T's would cause would restrict flow. I still don't know if I should by-pass the factory "in rad cooler" and just have the aux cooler or not. I'm sure there are guys out there that have run into this before. With the stock set-up , my trans temps are running around 150/160 degrees. I have not pulled my RV since I installed the temp gauge, so I don't know yet what the temps will be pulling the camper. I really need some good direction here, and I know I am in the right place to get it. Thanks, Mike
Disconnect the hose connected to output side of the cooler in the radiator (the return line), and install your new cooler line there. This line leads to your new aux cooler as you will be removing the factory u-shaped aux cooler from the system. You will then take the hose at the output side of the new aux cooler and connect it to the return line leading back to the transmission.
I have found that upgrading the transmission cooler lines from 5/16 to 3/8 makes a great deal of difference here too. If you do this, you'll need 3/8 fittings for the radiator, cooler, output side of the transmission and a 3/8 check valve adapter at the rear of the transmission.
I also have 2 7" electric fans attached to my tru-cool and it maintains a temperature equal to 100* above the actual outside temperature. This is what you should shoot for. If people tell you they are getting 150/160 degree temps in 90 degree heat, they either have the temp sensor in the wrong place, or are simply lying.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Towing
UPDATE- Pulled my camper up to the Cherokee Indian Reservation in N.C. last week and spent a few days. Truck did great! You can for sure tell you have a heavy load back there at times , but the truck handled it very good. I also bought a new digital brake controller with a "boost feature" and after spending a little time getting it sorted out , it was stopping much smoother and quicker The engine temp hand never got past the "r" in normal the entire round trip and the trans temp never got above 180 degrees and we were in the mountains. That trans cooler ya'll recommended really does a good job in keeping the temps down. All in all, I'm very happy. Now, on to the Sunshine state!
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Junior User
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Towing
The new brake controller is a Prodigy P2. There was a problem with the old controller as when I removed it I discovered there was something loose inside. You can shake it and something inside bounces around. One other question. I checked with local NAPA store and they have the 6637 air filter in stock, but when I asked about exhaust elbow they looked like a deer caught in headlights. Can anyone give me a part number or some more info on this part? Thanks, Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
41632 - 45-degree, 4-in O.D. exhaust elbow. I didn't cut it for the installation, but I did paint it, but that is not required. Painting was a personal choice. Look in my albums for a picture of the 6637 and exhaust elbow installed on my truck.
Edit:
Here's the picture
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/852994
Edit:
Here's the picture
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/852994