Have you run an injector buzz or KOEO test to see why the P1316 code is being thrown? I'm betting it's going to be a high to low side short on an injector circuit. When that happens, the IDM will protect itself by taking the whole cylinder bank offline.

 

Also, if you haven't already done it, pull the 42 pin connector from over the left valve cover and check the underside of the wiring harness for chafing where it crosses over the valve cover. That's a common cause of problems with this particular symptom.

 

If only one side is firing then you found it. Check the harness pins for burned ones. If all pins are okay trace each wire back for a rub. If nothing like that is found, and all ohm'd out okay then I'd say IDM is possible. Get a heat gun and check exhaust manifolds for cold side if not sure.

 

Thanks again for the replies. One thing I didn't mention in the last post was that along with the change back to old CPS, etc... I found that the VC plug under the glow plug module was covered In oil, so I sprayed the outside of it with some badass CRC electronics cleaner. That's when she started and ran. Now I'm thinking I may have been getting shorting from oil in the plug. I'm going to clean it deeper in the morning and see if what seems like an intermittent IDM shutdown of one bank goes away. Then, hopefully I'm on the road again!

 

I think you're missing a tin nut. Is there a skinny nut on the end of your IPR? If not, it's lying in the engine valley, and you can pick it up with a magnet - if my Alzheimer's isn't kicking in again.

 

Thanks Tugly, I backed up the tin nut with a new one, so now there are two. Two nuts are better than one ya know!

The nuts are tight, but I can still slide the solenoid a little bit side to side. I am really thinking that my problem was an oil-leak caused short in the Pass side VC outside plug.

OT- Reminder: Anybody that hasn't gone in for the ABS/Speed Control switch recall: I unplugged the switch/sensor on the master cylinder, and about two tablespoons of brake fluid poured out, and the plug was corroded. This problem can lead to a big fire even if your truck is just sitting parked and shut off, so if you hav'nt done so yet, get it fixed, even if your switch isn't leaking now.

 

Subscribed - I really appreciate the broad range of expertise shown here.

 

This is a very old thread but it sounds so similar to mine that I was hoping to find out what the final outcome was. Maybe I could use that info to skip ahead a little. If anyone knows what the problem ended up being please post it.

 

I believe he found oil in some connections causing a short in his system
e never came back to close the thread so we can only speculate

 

Step 1: Unplug and check the electrical connections Cam Position Sensor, Injection Control Pressure Switch, and Injection Pressure Regulator; if any are covered in oil, replace the sensor and use electrical contact cleaner on the plug. Fixing these may not solve this issue but they’re easy to rule out, relatively easy to swap out, and fixing them now will prevent future issues.

Step 2: You may have to replace your valve cover gaskets/harness within them. I recommend getting both sides out of the way at the same time. Probably 2-3 on the difficulty scale.
https://www.mishimoto.com/glow-plug-...caAuUlEALw_wcB