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Old May 5, 2014 | 08:29 PM
  #1  
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brakes

Hey guys today I pulled my brake rotors off and sent them to napa to have them cut. When driving you can feel that they were warped. The guy at napa called and told me that the rotors were too rotted and could not be cut due to that they would be over spec. So I ordered brand new rotors and pads from napa. I have replaced brakes on my truck before. But this time of course was different. I noticed one of the caliper pins was seized in the bracket. So I was going to replace it tomorrow with a new bracket and pins. I put everything back together started the truck and noticed that the truck dragged alot. also that the truck now PULLS to the left hard. Im curious if that stuck pin is making it pull. Now heres the weird part. Why didnt it pull before i changed the brakes. Also the brake pedal feel different than before. it feels alot softer.

I apologize for the long drawn out story.

Any help on what may be the problem will be a great help.

-AJ
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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Yes the pin is the cause of it, it doesn't matter why it is doing it now it is. I pull all my slide pins and grease them up with never seize at least once a year

If it pulls to the left you have a problem on the right most of the time
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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Wait why would it pull to the left of its a problem on the right? The stuck pin is on the left side.
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Liquid10Rider
Wait why would it pull to the left of its a problem on the right? The stuck pin is on the left side.
Because a stuck pin on the right would not allow the right side to actuate completely, and the left side would do more stopping, which pulls you left.
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by A/Ox4
Because a stuck pin on the right would not allow the right side to actuate completely, and the left side would do more stopping, which pulls you left.
Agree as well.

I had a dragging/stuck caliper last week on my left rear and it would pull right whne stopping. The pins were corroded as usual and under normal braking conditions I would get 3 strong brakes from the two right and front left but the rear driver's side would be weak as the caliper wouldn't actuate correctly. Under hard braking it would finally actuate but then fail to return fully to the "open" position and drag causing excess heat.

I got out and smelled some cooked brakes and threw some water on my rotor and caliper on that side and it was a steam bath, the other side barely made a sizzle. New caliper installed and everything is good.
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 06:23 AM
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I don't even mess with using the old calipers when doing a brake job anymore, it's just not worth the frustration. I just go to NAPA and get calipers with mounting brackets.
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan V
I don't even mess with using the old calipers when doing a brake job anymore, it's just not worth the frustration. I just go to NAPA and get calipers with mounting brackets.

100% agree.

2 years ago when I had my first round with the calipers I went to AutoZone and they only carry the caliper body without the bracket/pins etc. and I punted using those.

Recently I did the same thing as Dan does evidently but used Advance Auto as they sell the whole shebang......$62 + $40core + $50ish for a padset (4 pads so a full axle set) so it turns out to be like $85-90/wheel.

Just make sure the pins are assembled correctly and the bolts are tight.

Why mix old and new if it is that cheap to get the whole setup......
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 07:12 AM
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I almost always have an extra set of slide pins on hand. My truck loves brakes rotors and calipers. Since I put EBCs on the front the only issue I've had are slide pins once in awhile. I'll be adding EBCs to the rear Thursday when the pads get here
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I almost always have an extra set of slide pins on hand. My truck loves brakes rotors and calipers. Since I put EBCs on the front the only issue I've had are slide pins once in awhile. I'll be adding EBCs to the rear Thursday when the pads get here
For clarification, EBC makes pads and rotors for our rigs not calipers right?

What pads from EBC are you guys running?
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by River19
For clarification, EBC makes pads and rotors for our rigs not calipers right?

What pads from EBC are you guys running?
Yep you got it.

EBC if I recal right recommend Green Stuff for our truck. I have a set of greens on the front and will have a set of yellows on the back. I don't have the rotors but that's on the wish
list too. For calipers the options are very limited. You can upgrade the fronts to ssbc if you can justify they cost, I'm sure there worth it but have not heard any reviews on them and there a little steep for my liking
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
Yep you got it.

EBC if I recal right recommend Green Stuff for our truck. I have a set of greens on the front and will have a set of yellows on the back. I don't have the rotors but that's on the wish
list too. For calipers the options are very limited. You can upgrade the fronts to ssbc if you can justify they cost, I'm sure there worth it but have not heard any reviews on them and there a little steep for my liking
With factory style replacements costing $60-70 each wheel, I think you can buy a lot of replacements for the cost of the Wildwoods etc.

I would love to hear what people's experiences have been with aftermarket rotors such as slotted/dimpled etc.

Did you notice a performance change in the EBC pads?
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:16 PM
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Yes it was a night and day difference for me. It wasn't hard to beat what the PO put on the truck though, those were junk pads. I also am trying to stop 38" tires too. I think there's a couple good threads floating around on this very topic
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:45 PM
  #13  
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No doubt this has been discussed before. I'll go back and check them out. Prior to last week I was concerned with how to install the brakes, now that I've done it and know we aren't launching the space shuttle, I can rethink "what" I'm installing going forward.

I'll probably duplicate the combo on the passenger side rear that I just slapped on the driver's side as that only makes sense, but I'm thinking upgrading the fronts would be nice down the road.
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 04:44 PM
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I have to do my slide pins on a spring and fall schedule. (Learned the hard expensive way).

I find running th pins thru a bench grinder wire wheel and using moly lube has been the ticket vs antisieze. It seemed the antisieze would work it's way to the interior csvity of the pin and make the brakes less responsive. I have yet to Mic the pins I've done this to for the last four sessions. I'm sure they're smaller in diam by a hair, but that seems like it would be a good thing. I'll be buying/installing new pins in a week. I will compare the wear down due to wheeling them and see what the dif is in the tolerance. I've also been told that some dudes put them in a can of carb cleaner overnight and just lightly sand them before lubing.

Don't know the best answer or approach but more attention on maintenance intervals seems to be a key factor. (See a snake kill it mentality)

Two cents

Denny
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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I went with Power Stop drilled/slotted all the way around, with Z16 pads. I've used Hawk Performance in the past.
 
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