That's because no matter how closely the front and rear tires are matched, even a slight difference in loading or air pressure will result in the front and rear trying to travel at different speeds and when their drive shafts are locked to the same speed like in 4lo or 4hi in a 205, you get "wind up" or "driveline binding" .... if you simply back up a couple or 3 feet, you'll likely be able to slip it out of 4lo.

It should be free to spin by hand as long as you like in that test .... if it is limited, like it stops .... then you have a problem.

"Wind up" or "driveline binding" as already described, it happens in 4lo or 4 hi for same reason.

You should never be operating the truck in 4lo or 4hi with hubs locked on any surface that provides good traction. Only place you should ever operate it in a 4lo or 4hi with hubs locked is slick conditions like mud, loose gravels, snow, ice where surface conditions limit traction and thus limit "wind up" or "driveline binding" pressures.

Test , engine off, parking brake set, transmission in low gear .... unlock hubs .... place TC in 2wh (or where you believe it to be) .... slide under truck and try to rotate the front driveshaft. It should rotate freely by hand.

 

Alrighty now for the test results.

Truck off-Trans in 1st-Transfer case in 2hi
The front driveshaft is limited to 1/2 turn and is turning the axle u joints

Truck off- Trans in 1st- transfer case in N
The front driveshaft is limited to 1/2 turn and is turning the axle u joints

However I did notice something earlier today while driving the truck and messing with the 4x4. While the truck is running the transfer case does have a neutral. With it running and in gear, the transfer case would disengage both axles and not move.

 

I went out and looked some more at it. The shifter mount is very loose for the transfer case. Could this be causing it to not pull the case out of 4wd?

The driveshaft front driveshaft was also locked completely this time. The rear had a bout 1/2 turn of play though?

 

Disconnect the linkage. Then use a crowbar to move the shift bar manually from under the truck. Just keep in mind the shift pattern is reversed at the 205. This way you can eliminate the linkage as the issue.

 

The hard to get out of 4wd could be worn out shift linkage....try backing up (slowly) just a bit while pushing from 4HI to 2wd on the transfer case lever.

Or just be in reverse and apply a little clutch and gas to un-bind the driveline.

The shaft should spin freely when hubs are not lock in, I think that is from a front locker?

 

With the front hubs disengaged ans the transfer case I dont see why the drive shaft shouldnt turn freely. It should not be connected to anything?

After finals I will get under the truck and work work with the linkage more. Could being loose cause it to not get out of 4hi?

 

If you mean with TC in 2hi or neutral, you are right, it should turn freely.

Yes, loose linkage could conceivably cause it, but so could damaged internal shift forks in the TC.

It would turn the axle U-joints, the hubs unlocked free up the axle. In those two tests, the front shaft should have turned as long as you wanted to twist it. Stopping at 1/2 turn makes me suspicious still of the TC and maybe shift linkage or even shift forks.

Others have suggested great ideas to try / look at.

When the shaft was stopped, did you hear any noise in TC or towards front axle?

Might be time to disconnect front shaft from TC and see if yoke can be turned?

 

I have an update!

It was the u joints after all. The transfer case to front drive shaft u joint ears are binding because of such a steep angle. When the u joint retainers were loosened the driveshaft became free to turn. The lower u joint has no issues.

The transfer case and differential seem to be in the clear now.

Would it be acceptable to file the u joint yokes so that they have proper clearance?

 

Wow you got lucky, grinding a little on each side of the yoke should not hurt a thing.

Did you install the lift, or get it that way? Does your front d/s have a CV joint on the xfer case connection end?

 

I feel really lucky finding this and am hoping this is the entire problem. I was kind of hoping to find an excuse to twin stick..

I bought the truck lifted so im not sure about what all went into it. The rear has a CV joint in it(double U joint, right). In the front though its just the standard joint. I suspect this is why I am running out of driveline angle in the front and not the back.

 

The CV joint (yes double u joint) is a good thing and yes it helps reduce the sharp d/s angle. 6" on a F150 is alot of lift and can get your d/s angle out wack.

Grinding the yoke to get some clearance is ok, just do not get carried away. Remember to ck it with the suspension and full compression and droop if possible, not just setting static.

Twin stick ='s "front or rear digs"...Google/u tube it. Lots of bolt on kits out there and here is some trans and xfer info.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ick-cheap.html

http://www.jbconversions.com/product.../twinstick.php

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...seshifters.htm

http://www.quad4x4.com/New_Process_N...rts.html#Yokes

Offroad Design - Complete Rebuilt NP205, NP203 transfer Cases

https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/...p435_parts.htm

RCV Off-Road Performance Products - CV Joints, Axle Kits, Tools

 

I think for now I will just modify the yokes and see how they run. If they give me more fits or snap I will have the local diesel speed shop weld on a CV joint. I have a feeling that if its hitting at ride height, it will bind at drop even with modifications.

admittedly I don't do a large amount of off road driving. The truck is to get me where I want to go reliably. Camping, fishing spots, work, class exc. The twin stick appeals to me because in the winter I can select Front HI and avoid the tail end stepping out under throttle. Plus I don't think a would be thief could figure out a twin stick- manual transmission truck.

 

A lot of truth in that.

A functional upgrade. Plus it just looks dang cool!

 

For a DD just grind what you need...if you do not do a large or even small amount of off roading the twin stick mod is not worth the effort IMO.

And as far as that idea being used mainly for a theft deterrent, it's really not worth it. And just so you can run 4Hi front only in the winter....defeats the purpose of owning a 4wd in the first place. But I understand what you mean, I just do not agree.

Instead for a theft deterrent get a (100AMP 12V Battery Isolator Cut Off Power Kill Switch) for under the dash or seat is quicker, easier and better, again IMO.

100AMP 12V Battery Isolator Cut Off Power Kill Switch - US$4.99

Auto Kill Switch: Parts & Accessories | eBay

FYI none of the ebay stuff is mine, but just so you get the idea. Like a master power kill switch on the back of drag cars/monster trucks.

I could figure it out... besides if you neutralized the transfer case you would only have the ebrake as your primary park brake....?? I like the back up "leave it in 1st gear" park brake.

 

Just jam the levers back and forth till it moves, is what will happen...or finding it already in neutral in the 1st place makes is quick and easy to tow away quietly.

Maybe a "club" for the steering wheel/brake pedal lever...ok so pull the steering wheel and slap on another, "club defeated".

Yes a guy can use a jumper wire on the master switch and all car thefts carry a jumper wire with alligator clips....the key is finding the one that is real. And that takes time they might have or want to spend.

Fake one under the dash, real one under the seat or some other spot like a glove box? Mount the main part of the switch behind the cardboard and just have the access hole for the red key to fit in.

A plain HD toggle switch will work in there too. If they want it, they will get it.