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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

HELP REPLACEING NUMBER 5 COP E150 4.6

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Old May 3, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #1  
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From: Brooklyn Noo Yawk
HELP REPLACEING NUMBER 5 COP E150 4.6

I recently had the number 5 cop replaced in my e150 4.6. I always have my van repaired at ford. It cost $200 to replace it. My uncle who has an 03 e150 with 4.6 had the same code pop up after his van began missing. If I could've done it myself I would have but I'm disabled. I told my uncle since the number 5 is the first plug/cop is the first one on the drivers side, he probably could do it himself. He already purchased the part from auto zone ($59) . I gave him my repair manual. I'm gonna hang out with him on Monday when he does the change out. Eventhough we have the manual can someone give me a step by step walk through. He's handy and between me and him I'm sure he can save a $150. Thanks. P.s I know the plug needs to be removed. I know the screw holding the cop needs to be removed but I don't know if anything needs to be removed to get to it. I know it's the first cop on the drivers side. I does anything need to be removed in order to get to it. Such as the air filter assembly. Thanks
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 06:00 AM
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You're correct about the location of #5: first one back from front, left/drivers side.

It's completely possible to R&R that plug and COP without removing anything however I'm of the thought anything even remotely in my way comes off---seems to save me time. Were I do doing a full 8 or 10 plug change the entire air cleaner housing and inlet duct back to the throttle body are removed. Two band clamps (duct), 4 8mm headed bolts (air cleaner housing) and one electrical connector and you've got clear access to the engine's left side.

The air cleaner housing and inlet duct can be left attached together, loosen only the band clamp nearest the TB and remove it all in one large piece.

The biggest reason to remove so much for one simple operation is having a clear view of the work area and components involved. Those who are highly experienced can do this essentially blind but I don't want to assume anyone's level of experience is that high.

Here's a few photos where the inlet duct was replaced---maybe they'll be useful to you for this:

First view:



Air Clener Housing removed:



Throttle body with inlet duct removed:



Here's the complete duct assembly between the air cleaner housing and throttle body:



To remove this simply loosen the band clamps identified by the red arrows, parts 1 & 2 remain together, part 3 stays on TB.

Anyway hope this helps!
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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joesnogood
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From: Brooklyn Noo Yawk
JWA THANKS AGAIN. ONE MORE QUESTION

I was mistaken when I said he needed to replace the plug. It's only the cop that needs to be replaced. Will my uncle be able to clearly see the number 5 cop? Without removing the assembly you suggested? If I'm correct please let me know if this is the processe in which it's removed then replaced. 1. Unplug wirer from cop. 2. Remove bolt holding cop. 3. Remove cop from sparkplug. Then reverse processes 1-3 to replace with new cop. JWA I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge. You always come through. I tried to find the information you gave me on the internet before posting my original question. I couldn't find the exact answer thats when I came here.
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 12:40 PM
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air cleaner needs to be removed to gain access. fortunately #5 is the easiest one to reach IMO.

pretty simple process. you seem to have the order correct.

remove air cleaner as mentioned by JWA.
unplug wire from COP
I believe it's a 7mm socket, loosen nut on COP and pull it off the plug.
push on new coil, and fasten nut. then replace air ducting

personally I would change the plug while in there, but that is your choice
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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From: Brooklyn Noo Yawk
ALL WENT GREAT

Except for dropping the bolt that holds the cop in place (luckily it fell straight through the engine compartment and landed on the floor). ThankuAll. He said Eventhough no code showed, he said the problem must have existed for a while as the vehicle ran better than it has in many months. The code which poped up (p305) about a week ago, cleared itself within 20 minutes of driving it.
 

Last edited by joesnogood; May 5, 2014 at 08:38 PM. Reason: FORGOT TO MENTION
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Old May 5, 2014 | 10:33 PM
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you can also check for any random misfires even if the CEL is not on.
if you have access to a scanner that can do it, go to Mode 6 Test ID $53 to see if any other cylinders have unusual amounts of misfire.
All cylinders should be near or at 0
 
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