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Spark Plugs change V10 for dummies w/pictures.

 
  #1  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:27 PM
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Spark Plugs change V10 for dummies w/pictures.

Needs:
10 Motorcraft Gsf22w Park Plugs
10 Duralast Boots with springs
7 mm socket
8 mm socket
1/2 breaker bar
3/8 8" extension attached spark plug socket (best thing I bought, no need to worry about socket getting stuck on plug and separating, the socket is mounted to the extension and can't come lose, plus its magnetic) was worried I couldn't get it into the rear ones but it I managed to wiggle it back there even on the passenger rear side.
3/8 to 1/2 adapter (for the breaker bar)
Nickel Anti Seize
Dielectric Grease
Shop Vac - modded with long reach tubbing
PB Blaster modded with long reach tubbing
Compressed air modded with long reach tubbing

Day 1 - clean the IAC https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
I removed the air housing (it's in the way) and then took zip lock bags and taped them over the throttle body and filter housing to keep from blowing anything down into them. Vacuum off the top of the engine and wipe it down well, then remove all the coils and blow out each hole, and the vacuum them out as well. Then spray some PB blaster down into each plug hole and let it sit overnight or at least for an hour.


I made up my own to work down in the plug holes, using tubing and duct tape on a cheap can of compressed air, my shop vac and a can of pb blaster.





How she sat overnight

Day 2
Using the modified shop vac with tubing suck out each hole and remove as much of the pb blaster and gunk as you can. Will need a small tube cut on an angle on the end to get in around the plugs to suck out the PB blaster. You don't want all the liquid to dump down into the engine as you pull the plugs so suck it out well. Also used my rag on a wand and qtip on a wand here to clean out the holes before pulling the plugs.

Start at passenger side rear, it is the hardest to reach so get it over with. You have to do it by feel. Slide the extension and socket down onto it (tight wiggle to get it back there) then attached the 1/2 breaker bar to the extension and give it a 1/4 turn if it moves give it another 1/4 and remove the breaker bar.

Attach the ratchet to the extension and slowly twist the plug out. You can feel when it comes free an the noise stops, now carefully pull the extension out. The solid connected magnetic extension was priceless here. Didn't have to worry about the socket sticking or dropping the plug.

Once out immediately put it in the same box you got the new one from and label the box P5. Now using the q tip or rag tip cleaners clean out the hole, use the shop vac with the tubing mod to suck every last bit of anything out of until it shines.


Had to remove this on the passenger side to get enough clearance, not sure what it is but it was in my way.


Get the new plug and snap it into the magnetic socket then spread anti seize on the threads only.

Then insert the plug into the hole using the socket and finger turning so you can feel the threads, back out if it binds and gently try again, then tighten to 132 inch lbs. I clipped some of the hoses out of the way to get the torque wrench onto the rear plugs. Wanted a straight shot to make sure I got the proper torque. Recheck the setting on the wrench before each plug, with all the cramming into tight places mine moved a couple of times and I had to reset it.

Now prep the new boot and spring, by coating the top and bottom ends with grease.
Then snap the boot onto the coil, under the retaining clip, don't forget to cover both ends of the boot with grease. Some of these are a tight fit to turn the coil and boot around and get back into the hole, if the boot pops off while you are doing this just reset the coil onto the boot while it's in position over the hole before you put it down. Once you push it down you can't see if the retainer is secure on the boot so be sure before you put it all the way down into the hole. Wiggle it down until it feels snug, then secure the coil with the 7mm bolt. WORD OF WARNING do not crank too hard on these 7mm bolts. I broke one and the gods must have been shining on me, it was not broken off flush so I could just finger thread it out and off to the hardware store for a replacement.

Now repeat that same procedure 9 more times, working back to front on each side. That's optional but get the hard ones out of the way first, makes the rest much easier. Do 1 at a time and limit the amount of time you have any sitting empty (less chances to drop something down in there).

All 10 are done and coils are back in and the truck purr's now like a really pissed off powerful kitten.

One other warning if you aren't used to this kind of work your arms are likely to look like this when you are done, but well worth saving $550 from the shop doing it, when I paid less than $150 for everything.


I was able to reach the plugs using my little giant ladder with a pad on it, laying prone across the engine.
 

Last edited by sammie0126; 11-04-2012 at 07:00 AM. Reason: Had torque written as ft pounds - corrected to in.lbs
  #2  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:51 PM
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Good job, glad you got it done.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:33 AM
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Good Job! I gotta admit, Im quite impressed that you're not afraid to get in there and get down and dirty like that!
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:22 AM
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LOL... I like the ladder idea... I will be doing this when I get home.. I purchased all new coils, will be buying all new plugs. What are these springs and points you speak of?
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:07 AM
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Nice work! I should be doing this soon. Also like the ladder idea.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:23 AM
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Great write-up!

The ladder sure beats the "fall off and bruise your belly button 5-gallon bucket" that I used.

I have seen others say to only use the anti-seize on the seat area of the plug and NOT the threads, but I did just like you and used it ONLY on the threads. As the saying goes, "Works fine, lasts a long time".
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:23 AM
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Added a few more pictures and cleaned up some of my bad late night typing, also corrected the torque, (Thanks beardown) I had 132 ft lbs in one place that's inch pounds! Big difference.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:27 AM
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Thanks for the additional pics....
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BigPigDaddy View Post
Great write-up!

The ladder sure beats the "fall off and bruise your belly button 5-gallon bucket" that I used.

I have seen others say to only use the anti-seize on the seat area of the plug and NOT the threads, but I did just like you and used it ONLY on the threads. As the saying goes, "Works fine, lasts a long time".
Tried the bucket thing once - didn't end well! If you have one of those ladders it works great. Cover the back part where your hips and legs are with a board/pad and leave the front section open. Then you can reach between the ladder rungs to get to all the plugs. Did put a pad under the windshield and over the wiper arms so I didn't scratch anything up.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by GOTUBCH View Post
LOL... I like the ladder idea... I will be doing this when I get home.. I purchased all new coils, will be buying all new plugs. What are these springs and points you speak of?
Springs come with the boots. Highly recommend you also replace the boots. They get old and cracked and I had 4 of the 10 that didn't come off well and stretched out. If I didn't have new ones I would have had to stop and go get some to finish the job. I posted a picture (added to my original post) of the boot with the spring inside it.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GOTUBCH View Post
LOL... I like the ladder idea... I will be doing this when I get home.. I purchased all new coils, will be buying all new plugs. What are these springs and points you speak of?
Also did you really buy all new coils? This is 3 part system, plugs, boots w/spring inside, then the coil. The plugs are about 2-5$ each, the boots are about 4-5$ each and the coils are about $40+ each. Coils you replace only when bad. I think maybe you got the boots, those come with the springs that go inside them. If you really are replacing all your coils x 10 that's about $500. I did get 1 new coil just in case but all mine were good, so I am keeping that in my truck in a kit with an extra plug and boot in case I have one go bad. I travel with this truck to and from Canada (from Indiana) and have started keeping things like this with me in case something happens up there. Buying anything in Canada is expensive.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:36 PM
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A lotta' people buy all new coils but I guess they have a lotta' money. I'm with you on the "just keep a spare one" idea. That ladder is perfect for you but I am 6'1" so just a 4" aluminum works fine for me. I took some things off in the passenger side rear also and it was worth it. I don't know where people come up with things like "just put anti-seize on the taper" when the whole idea is to eliminate the corrosion caused by dissimilar metals. I used Autolite 103 regulars but I replace them every 2 years to keep an eye on the boots and junk getting in the holes, and keep it running well. If it took you under 3 hours you did good (just threw that in). That was smart to adapt to 1/2" so you could use a hefty breaker bar. Nickel (you used) is supposed to be superior to the copper anti-seize. My take on the bottom grease is that just the tip of the spring needs a little grease to keep it from corroding and any more than that will just attract dirt and debris down there (dam, you almost scored 100%) lol. Don't forget to carry that 7mm wrench with you also.
 
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:57 PM
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No I am replacing all my coils with Motorcraft coils as recommended by everyone on the board though, they all recommend your suggestion as well of only changing the bad one. I am only gonna be driving this on the weekend to tow my boat or race car and do not want to walk out to go somewhere and have issues as silly as a coil pack. I do not like doing the same job twice or hunting around to find the bad one. Done once and done right.
 
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GOTUBCH View Post
No I am replacing all my coils with Motorcraft coils as recommended by everyone on the board though, they all recommend your suggestion as well of only changing the bad one. I am only gonna be driving this on the weekend to tow my boat or race car and do not want to walk out to go somewhere and have issues as silly as a coil pack. I do not like doing the same job twice or hunting around to find the bad one. Done once and done right.
Your money, your truck, whatever. Don't forget there are 500 other things that can go bad just as easily. My truck has 165k miles on it with the original cops.
 
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by EXv10 View Post
If it took you under 3 hours you did good (just threw that in).
Well almost made it took me about 4 1/2 but I was diligent and spent so much of that time cleaning out the holes that actual time wrenching was maybe 2. I put a spare ratchet and 7 in the bag with the coil but all of them really did look great I checked all the wires, but I know one can die without warning.

One question for you though, thoughts on why my driver's side 4 (2nd to rear was so dirty) let's assume none of them had grease on the top of the boot, so why was that one so bad. Coils were all tight, but that one the boot was stuck in the hole by black gunk at the bottom, had to needle nose it out. Also passenger side 4 was the second worst, also had boot stuck but not quite as bad. Sure looks like those two got wet, any ideas on where moisture is coming from?
 

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