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There is a filter screwed directly into carb where fuel line attaches. But if you had fuel in the bowl when carb was opened up, that should not be the issue. Look down throat of carb and slowly open throttle. You should see a squirt of fuel verifying accelerator pump is working eliminating a fuel issue.
A previous owner had removed the filter that screws into the carb. It has an inline filter between the fuel pump and carb. I actually changed it just because I had a new one at home.
The thing is driving me crazy. When I run the throttle by hand while looking into the carb, I see a spray of fuel. However, after pumping it many times, etc. I never get the wet spark plugs like it has flooded. Throughout this whole process the plugs have remained dry.
I've poured maybe 3 oz (big shot glass size) of gas straight into the carb and it still won't start. That should be enough right???? At one time, I tried a little ether too and it wouldn't start on that.
I appreciate the help because I'm not making any progress on my own.
When I last checked into this thread, the impression I got was that the problem was solved because of a blocked fuel line. But now that I re-read your last few responses, I don't see you actually saying that the motor ever started. Is that the case?
I don't understand why your focus is on the fuel system (so much so as to even replace the fuel pump, when it's even clearly pumping fuel) when you don't have any reason to blame the fuel system. Have you tried to start off ether like I mentioned? Pouring gas down the carburetor is just going to flood the engine. The combustible needs to be atomized.
Not trying to sling you out here, but after 3 pages, you're going in circles because you haven't answered two very simple questions:
1) Will the motor start off ether or starting fluid?
2) Was the distributor clocked relative to TDC of the compression stroke? All you've said is that it's "in time," and that your friend helped you put it in, but that doesn't answer the question. I don't know who your friend is. If he was as good as you say, he would have figured this out by now, right?
I don't mean any offense by this; just trying to give you a push down the right path.
By the way, no offense taken at all. I've made about every mistake I can in this process.
What kind of a reading should I look for in a compression test? I think I read once that you want all the cylinders to be close to the same reading. any recommendations for a fairly cheap compression tester??? Do any of the parts houses loan those like they do the code readers?
I figured out what was wrong. My timing chain was a tad loose.
The plastic/nylon teeth were all gone and it looks like it had just been the aluminum gear for quite sometime.
It's hard to see but some of the teeth are really worn down. I've had the truck for 2 years and put maybe 2k miles on it and never noticed any of the nylon pieces when I changed the oil.
I put in a true street cloyes chain and gears. It is running really well. Thanks for all the help everyone.