Needs ALT upgrade
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: SW Idaho
Needs ALT upgrade
Hi All,
I’m looking at upgrading the alt in my 71 F250 with the FE motor. I’m currently running the 60 amp factory alt. After camping for 7 to 10 days it a very large load to recharge the battery bank (4 6 volt golf cart batteries and 1 RV 12 volt battery and then just the truck battery) I have between the trail and the pickup. Yet run all the lights going down the road. I started looking at Powermaster and changed my mind. I want something I can pick up in most small hole in the walls if I lose the alt. So I found a few people on here that talked about the Gen 3 alt and it will still bolt into the same place as the OEM alt does. So what are the best years and models to find a donor and what about wiring it up?
I’m looking at upgrading the alt in my 71 F250 with the FE motor. I’m currently running the 60 amp factory alt. After camping for 7 to 10 days it a very large load to recharge the battery bank (4 6 volt golf cart batteries and 1 RV 12 volt battery and then just the truck battery) I have between the trail and the pickup. Yet run all the lights going down the road. I started looking at Powermaster and changed my mind. I want something I can pick up in most small hole in the walls if I lose the alt. So I found a few people on here that talked about the Gen 3 alt and it will still bolt into the same place as the OEM alt does. So what are the best years and models to find a donor and what about wiring it up?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html
Look here too. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-pictures.html
Look here too. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-pictures.html
Here you go from page 4 of that thread.
130G Alternators:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
and plentiful one of all... 90-95 Ford Taurus.
And also it's twin Mercury Sable 91-95
130G Alternators:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
and plentiful one of all... 90-95 Ford Taurus.
And also it's twin Mercury Sable 91-95
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
The 3G alternator swap made a world of difference in my '70 F100. It was very simple to do. There are several walk-thru's posted here and on many other sites.
I grabbed mine off a Ford Taurus and grabbed the entire harness with it. This way I had all the wire needed for the install. I noticed on some of the taurus' that the charge harness was separate from the rest of the engine harness. I grabbed one of these so it was nice and loomed as well. Just trim to fit.
I grabbed mine off a Ford Taurus and grabbed the entire harness with it. This way I had all the wire needed for the install. I noticed on some of the taurus' that the charge harness was separate from the rest of the engine harness. I grabbed one of these so it was nice and loomed as well. Just trim to fit.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Go to the first heading of this thread for multiple links on the 3G retrofit.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14213910
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14213910
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
I did the 3G in mine. Grabbed it from a 95 Taurus 3.0. Get about 5ft of wiring that way you have more than enough to make a mistake with.
It's very easy to wire up. Just run the charge cable to the hot side starter solenoid, the green/red wire goes to your green/red wire. Yellow wire goes to the alternator charge lug, white wire plugs in to alternator again.
They put out either 95 or 130 amps depending on which case you get. 4hole or 2hole.
It eliminates all the old wiring and voltage regulator, makes for a nice clean swap!
It's very easy to wire up. Just run the charge cable to the hot side starter solenoid, the green/red wire goes to your green/red wire. Yellow wire goes to the alternator charge lug, white wire plugs in to alternator again.
They put out either 95 or 130 amps depending on which case you get. 4hole or 2hole.
It eliminates all the old wiring and voltage regulator, makes for a nice clean swap!
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Guys, help me out on these one-wire alternators.
I put one on my '34 rod. There was one wire- only one heavy cable that ran to the battery lug on the solenoid. No regulators, no other wires.
Can someone tell this simple old guy why there is all this spaghetti associated with a one -wire alternator?
I put one on my '34 rod. There was one wire- only one heavy cable that ran to the battery lug on the solenoid. No regulators, no other wires.
Can someone tell this simple old guy why there is all this spaghetti associated with a one -wire alternator?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: SW Idaho
Thank you for the links and info. Called a few bone yards and I'm looking at about $50 for everything. That's the you pick yards. Found a wrecked 93 Taurus wagon on line for $200, at lunch time I went and checked it out. They took $100 for the car. Called a tow company to pick it up and drop it off at home. I figured I could crush it and break even when I get what I need. Received a call from the tow company about a hour later. For towing plus giving me $100 for some odd and end part for there kids car. The parts they want is nothing I want. Money in the bank...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Guys, help me out on these one-wire alternators.
I put one on my '34 rod. There was one wire- only one heavy cable that ran to the battery lug on the solenoid. No regulators, no other wires.
Can someone tell this simple old guy why there is all this spaghetti associated with a one -wire alternator?
I put one on my '34 rod. There was one wire- only one heavy cable that ran to the battery lug on the solenoid. No regulators, no other wires.
Can someone tell this simple old guy why there is all this spaghetti associated with a one -wire alternator?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: SW Idaho
Rockittsled I agree, I do like the 1 wire in some ways. It is just 1 wire, keeps it simple that way. I looked at powermaster and prices run from $150 and up. Then I’m not able to head to a part house and pick up a replacement for it when it goes south on me. The 3G is the only way to go. Now I need to change out the old 75 amp battery isolator to the 140 amp so I can safely handle all the extra power. Once that is done then I’ll do the update on that 3G.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
the "one-wire" is a GM alt that is completely different than the 3g alt that is being discussed on this and the linked threads. the GM alt is also discussed in at least one of those links and, JMHO, is not necessarily a good choice for our trucks compared to the 3g alt
Respectfully
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
I have a pretty bare bones truck. So wiring up the 3G for me was too easy. I was able to eliminate EVERYTHING that was hooked to the old regulator and those dozen or so wires.
In my situation, the 3G is a "2-wire" alternator. Only 2 wires come off it. Charge and excite.
In my situation, the 3G is a "2-wire" alternator. Only 2 wires come off it. Charge and excite.