Electronic Ignition Question
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Last edited by ctubutis; Apr 29, 2014 at 09:11 PM. Reason: uploaded shrunken versions of wall-sized images
I shrunk 'em down to 1280 x (whatever) and attached 'em directly to your post, people can now actually *see* what it is you're trying to show them.

EDIT: Looks like I didn't wait long enough for each one to come in and be resized; they're over 5 MB each in size (no wonder) times 4 pictures is over 20 MB you're asking people to download... people with slow Internet connections or who are on a phone won't wait that long. I generally ask for 1024 x 768 or below, sometimes 1280 x 1024 is necessary or just preferable. But 5,000 x 3,000 is just wall-sized huge!
BTW it looks like you still have the computer-controlled TFI ignition, which isn't going to work properly with all its tentacles cut off like that. Look at the DSII swap threads; somebody posted a link above, look in the sticky or subforums, I think we have 3 threads on this up there.
Do you have a timing light?
"Electronic Engine Control," or "EEC", is what Ford called their on-board engine computer that was phased in throughout the 1980s. Before EFI was the standard, some mid-1980s carbureted models used an engine computer that controlled the ignition, emissions, and the air/fuel mixture at the (feedback) carburetor by various solenoids and sensors located around the engine. As a result, the distributor on these didn't used a vacuum advance at all, and the ignition module is bolted to the side of the distributor itself. This system used what is called a TFI ignition system and is the same as what the EFI models used. And like EFI, you can't just unplug and delete stuff or even make upgrades on these models and expect your truck to run "better." When you do this, what happens is the EEC engine computer will try to compensate for the "problem" and the vehicle will usually run worse as in performance and economy. (The EEC engine computer is located under the dashboard, to the right of the steering wheel.)
By "ripping out" stuff you didn't understand, your timing is now locked in at 10 degrees BTDC, and nothing can change that except to put everything back to stock or put in an entire stand-alone ignition system that didn't use computer controls. The Duraspark II or "DSII" swap is what Ford used on various carbureted models throughout the 1970s and 1980s before they switched to the EEC-IV/TFI ignition.
You either need to go to the junkyard and get an entire Duraspark II setup, or wire in something aftermarket so that you can have timing control.
See here for complete Duraspark II information:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9026150
Limited Operation Strategy
Ford Technical Documents - www.fordmods.com
Furthermore, from Component Monitor
If the EECV PCM detects an fault that endangers the gearbox it will flash the TIL and engage LOS mode. This is also known as 'Limp-Home Mode' because the intention is that the vehicle can still be driven - at drastically reduced performance - so as to arrive at the nearest Ford main dealer without delay.
During LOS the PCM will only allow the engine to develop enough torque to reach a low speed, perhaps up to 20mph even flooring the accelerator. The spark advance is set exactly to 10° BTDC, regardless of load or revs, and the INJector duration is fixed to minimum fuelling. The effect of this programming is that the cooling fans run constantly while the ignition is on - this is a tell-tale sign, which together with the steamroller performance and the flashing TIL, leaves the owner no choice but to seek diagnosis .
If LOS is experienced in a Scorpio then the DTCs need to be downloaded from the PCM. This can be done (at a cost) by a Ford main dealer, but also free of charge by an owner equipped with an OBD lead.
My Tempo didn't have a CEL or MIL or any such dash-mounted indicator, and neither do our trucks.

This is starting to make sense. So my timing is just locked in and I have no advance of any kind at the moment. So, this has me excited because there is more performance to be had from where I am at now. This whole process has been a big learning experience so to some degree I'm glad these issues have come up. This is the first time I've rebuilt an engine and I've been learning quite a bit, but there is still more to learn. The slow part is unlearning bad info people have told me. The one guy who taught me the most has a truck in the same situation as mine, so looks like I'll be teaching him when I get done with this.
I'm going to try to find a wiring harness from a junk yard, or see if one can be purchased new somewhere. From what I read it should just plug right in. My new distributor will need to be a vacuum advance type. I prefer to purchase a new one than get one from a junk yard. I found the following two on summit. One requires an external ignition box, the other says it does not. Am I on the right track with a distributor or am I foolish for not going to the junkyard?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/du...-150/year/1983
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/du...-150/year/1983
I've also been looking at Cardone remanufactured distributors like this one:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...15034|L3*16062
They show a picture of the electrical plug which is helpful.
What is the difference between single and dual vacuum advance? It looks like all the OEM replacements for an 83 were single so I'm guessing that is the easy thing to do. Just curious what the dual vacuum advance is and if it is something I should look at or not.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Since the stock Ford DSII harness has its own sending unit and tachometer plugs and wires, going this route will allow you to remove the ENTIRE engine computer along with ALL of those wires that you don't need anymore. This would make a much neater and cleaner installation, and your engine will look completely stock. If you can find the wire harness, engine coil, distributor, and ignition module from a junkyard truck, this would be the better and cheaper way to go.

The Cardone distributor in your link is the correct one to use if you are going the Ford Motorcraft Duraspark route.
As for the GM-style dizzy, there is another gotcha - they require a LOT of juice and will not run properly at all if run off of the stock wiring. That's because they need full battery voltage, meaning close to 14v, and the stock wiring has a ballast resistor in it that drops the voltage significantly in Run. What you can do is to use the stock power wire to pull in a relay that provides battery voltage to the dizzy in Run.
So I agree w/Fonzie - go find a stock DS-II harness at the salvage, a blue-grommet module, a standard coil, and the Cardone dizzy. You can really clean things up in the wiring and still have a fully functional ignition. But, the one-wire will work if you know what you are doing. It just requires some knowledge of wiring, relays, etc that aren't bolt-in.
As for the GM-style dizzy, there is another gotcha - they require a LOT of juice and will not run properly at all if run off of the stock wiring. That's because they need full battery voltage, meaning close to 14v, and the stock wiring has a ballast resistor in it that drops the voltage significantly in Run. What you can do is to use the stock power wire to pull in a relay that provides battery voltage to the dizzy in Run.
Jim
As for it being hacked up enough already. I love hacking things up! I'm just trying to learn here, I'm not restoring the thing. Maybe in the future when I know more I'll look for another project to do properly. I know this may irritate some of you F150 lovers. Sorry. Just one man's opinion, but I feel like just jumping in and getting your hands dirty you learn the most. I went in to this knowing I'd have issues and make mistakes.
Of course, if your truck was really in a barn for a long time your interior may be in better shape than mine. If your interested just let me know.












