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Yeah, just used the tow setting. Except for a couple of blasts on kill when I first put it in.
I don't know much about diesels, but in a drag car, going lean is what burns pistons, however in a turbocharged diesel, overfueling may be the culprit. it did have a bad ficm, if it wasn't firing the injectors right it could have caused it. Definitely heat, forged pistons don't just fall apart generally.
Just called the guy with the engine I wanted, he's a farmer and is busy in the field, and the motor is still in the truck, so that's probably not going to pan out. I might fix this one yet, my biggest problem is ordering parts, I get them sent to Sweet Grass MT, and pick them up, but border security can make your life hell if they're bored. They've made me declare stuff as commercial for my farm, and you sit at a computer with a retarded program and try and fill out their retarded forms, which are never right when you're done. I'm in real danger of getting tazed or shot when I'm doing it.
And the machine shop I trust is a 2 hr drive away...and, and, and, and...
It looks like an overfueling situation caused the gaulding of the pistons but from what I see of that cylinder wall, that's been going on for a while. Since there are 3 cylinders involved, I would usually suspect a tune that was a little too hot or a problem with the FICM. Since all three cylinders are on the same side, it may be a bad injector harness.
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This one Was a Run Away
had blowby after a EGR Cooler let go and was driven
Got the other head off, number 8 has a nice little valve relief cut at the top. The other 3 look fine, but the pistons do seem wore, you can easily see the rings looking down the bore. Maybe just because of the bigger clearance for forged pistons. I've had 2 non-returned calls on engines today, I think I'm going to call the machine shop after I pull the pan and check the crank, and see how far they will bend me over for a sleeve and a hone job. And see if they can order parts in so I don't get tazed at the border.
lean in a gasser will burn pistons but it's the exact opposite in a diesel which is why it ran away. Dropping in a used engine has some benefit (cheaper) but all the 6.0's had the same problems so, in my opinion, I don't think it's the best option unless you plan to do a few upgrades before you put it in.
Deleteing the EGR on a used (or new) one will take care of some things but you should also look at the fact that all the original 6.0 push rods are 50/1000 too long which cause some lifter failures and the TTY head bolts stretch causing blown head gaskets. Putting new lifters and push rods in is easy and relatively inexpensive when you remove the heads to stud it but having the heads check, and probably re-worked at the machine shop could cost you some money.
Weigh all of your options to determine what's best for you before you start laying out money. Once you make the decision, have confidence that you made the right one.
Just drained 25 litres of "oil" out of it. Walked away and left it to drain, and I have quite a mess on the floor, since I only put 16 litres in at oil changes. I guess I have my runaway figured out. Too late to drop the pan tonight, I suspect the crank is wiped out.
Now I have 8 injectors I don't trust at $400 each.
Sigh.
Just drained 25 litres of "oil" out of it. Walked away and left it to drain, and I have quite a mess on the floor, since I only put 16 litres in at oil changes. I guess I have my runaway figured out. Too late to drop the pan tonight, I suspect the crank is wiped out.
Now I have 8 injectors I don't trust at $400 each.
Sigh.
The 6.0 holds allot of oil that doesn't come out with oil changes.