Longtime lurker
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 6
From: Tucson, AZ
Hi,
I'm from Tucson and used to live in Mesa. Steve at Industrial Chassis is a good, honest shop that KNOWS what he is doing. He did the last of his Generation I Dakota IFS installs on my 48 F1, straightened the frame, boxed it to the back of the cab and installed a tubular center cross member. Top notch work. Yes, he is booked into summer. He has the jigs and patterns for his Generation II Dakota installs done.
The advice from AX and the others about how to fix the crack is good advice. Industrial Chassis would be a good choice to do the work when he is available if you can't find anyone else to do the work. Just be careful about shop selection. In Phoenix, there are some guys, that do NOT know what they are doing. Steve could give you some advice about who to use and who to stay away from.
Phil
I'm from Tucson and used to live in Mesa. Steve at Industrial Chassis is a good, honest shop that KNOWS what he is doing. He did the last of his Generation I Dakota IFS installs on my 48 F1, straightened the frame, boxed it to the back of the cab and installed a tubular center cross member. Top notch work. Yes, he is booked into summer. He has the jigs and patterns for his Generation II Dakota installs done.
The advice from AX and the others about how to fix the crack is good advice. Industrial Chassis would be a good choice to do the work when he is available if you can't find anyone else to do the work. Just be careful about shop selection. In Phoenix, there are some guys, that do NOT know what they are doing. Steve could give you some advice about who to use and who to stay away from.
Phil
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Phx, Az
Thanks Phil. Very sound advice. Industrial Chassis would be my first choice for the install if I go the jag route. I'm going to take my time and consider all options for the front suspension before setting anything into stone.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Lou,
You aren't lurking any more! Good to see you jump in - the water's
not too cold. Lot's of good advice here for you.
Nice one - looking for & finding that crack! Take a good look at those brakes as well - our steel lines looked ok but were rusting out from the inside. You will want a dual chamber master cylinder if your grandpa hasn't already upgraded that one.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
You aren't lurking any more! Good to see you jump in - the water's
not too cold. Lot's of good advice here for you.
Nice one - looking for & finding that crack! Take a good look at those brakes as well - our steel lines looked ok but were rusting out from the inside. You will want a dual chamber master cylinder if your grandpa hasn't already upgraded that one.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Phx, Az
Just wanted to give an update on where I am currently at with the truck. This past weekend I pulled the front clip off. I also ran a compression test on the 302 that is currently installed in the truck to get an idea of what the engine wear was like. I still haven't decided on which route I'm going to go in relation to the suspension. I do know that I will have to pull the motor out either way to get the motor mounts and frame repaired. I have begun prepping for the motor removal. I unbolted the bell housing bolts, disconnected the fuel line, removed the transmission kickdown cable, removed the starter, unbolted the exhaust manifolds, etc. I've noticed a lot of people on this forum and others recommending to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel and leaving it in the transmission when pulling the engine separate. So I will most likely be doing that tonight after work. I'll post some pics of all the progress later on as well. Thanks again everyone. This forum is helping tremendously with all the threads of information. I'm learning hands on. 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Be sure to do something to keep the t.c. in the trans, any drag on the bolts thru the flexplate can cause it to flop out onto the floor! Not a good idea. A piece of good mechanics' wire strung across the bellhousing is all it takes to keep it in.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Phx, Az
Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely do that when I get to that point.
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