Welcome to the site, looks like a great project.

You should join the AZ chapter of the site.

 

I think that I was the first to post doing the Jag IFS on this forum. It is a very straight forward installation, however, I would not want to pay someone else to do the installation since to my knowledge there are not shops specializing in the Jag installation and you will be paying for someone else to learn. There is the advantage for anyone doing the Jag now in that others have done it and posted pix of their installation, that said no one that I know makes a "kit" to install the Jag. When I did mine, I talked to Kent Fuller who had done several installations and he had thought about doing kits, Mike Bishop was urging Kent to do it but it never happened. Given your statement on a lack of fabrication skills and welding skills you would need to pay someone else. Many shops have done the M2 installation. Going IFS will include a new steering column in addition to the other work. I think that if you are mechanically capable of rebuilding the original beam axle, I would look hard at doing that with a Toyota box (which will require some fabrication work).

 

With the new PS kit (includes a brand new box) adding PS is a straight bolt in, unless your engine was never offered with PS and needs a pump mount fabricated.

 

[QUOTE=49willard;14288711]Going IFS will include a new steering column in addition to the other work.

A new steering column isn't required. I kept the stock steering column no problemo.

 

The steering column has to at least be modified to work.

 

Thanks Holehawgg. Soft mounting was what I was mainly interested in if I did go the jag ifs route. It looked really clean in 49willards gallery of his install. Smallello thanks ill definitely check out the AZ chapter. 49willard that's exactly why I was asking if anyone knew of an AZ shop that was familiar with the Jag install. I'm in a little bit of a dilemma now though. While pulling out the radiator last night and taking a few pics of the current suspension I noticed a large crack in the upper frame rail where the engine mounts were welded to. You guys think this is repairable? <a href="http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/Holguin2323/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc513/Holguin2323/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-1.jpg"/></a>

 

Hello and welcome, after listening to your goals, skills, and your Grandfathers age, my 2 cents would be to refurbish the straight axel, and related components as needed, go with the Toyoto steering swap and disk brake conversion. The reason Is to get the truck that your grandfather loves so much, back to where he can comfortably drive it while he is still young enough to do so. It won't do him any good to see the truck sit and sit while you work thru any unforeseen problems that could surface as you go. I think what your doing is a wonderful thing , and my hat is off to you. There are two things for sure in all of this and those are, you have a nice truck to work with, and the folks here on FTE will do there best to help guide thru this wonderful adventure.

 

The frame crack can be repaired, but should be done as soon as possible before it gets any worse. (check other side for signs of similar problem).
First the cause of the crack needs to be addressed, just welding it will have it crack again. It looks like the motor mounts were installed without boxing the frame so that needs to be strengthened.
Of course the first thing to do is to clean the area of all grease and oil, inside and out so the crack can be carefully examined. The very end of the crack needs to be determined, then an 1/8" hole drilled to stop further cracking. Next a "football" doubler needs to be cut out of some 10 ga or 1/8" sheet about 1/4" narrower than the flange width and about 6" long. It's called a football doubler because of it's shape, it should NOT be cut square! A few 5/16" holes should be drilled in it for plug welding. Note that the holes should NOT align in any direction. The doubler should be clamped tightly and the plug holes welded. The edges of the doubler should be skip welded (weld 3/4" skip 3/4" all the way around) then the crack can be welded solid being sure to get full penetration thru frame AND doubler. Finally a boxing plate about 12" long should be welded between the flanges centered on the motor mount. These are somewhat difficult placement and critical welds for safety so should be done by a very competent welder.
Should look like this: Magenta = doubler, blue = boxing plate.

 

The frame crack can certainly be repaired. Most likely, the existing motor mounts will need to be replaced if installing IFS, so that can be taken care of at the same time as the IFS install. No need to get the cart too far ahead of the horse, and it's nothing to lose any sleep over. The competent welder you find to do your fabrication will have the skills to tackle that, too.

 

Thanks underthebridgejim, it is still up in the air at the moment. If I can locate a toyota steering box for a good deal, it may persuade me that route. AXracer, thanks for your awesome reply. I figured the crack started out as a haz crack and progressed under stress and vibration. The frame is not necessarily boxed persay, but does have a support welded in between the frame close to the mount location. I did do a visual of the rest of the frame on both sides up to the cab and everything else looked good. I will most likely be pulling the front clip off this weekend to get a better idea of the actual condition of all suspension components. It would be nice if I could take home the portable penetrant inspection kit we have at work since that is my profession. I do non-destructive testing (penetrant and magnetic particle inspection) of turbine engine components. I actually thought about stop drilling at the end of the crack for the time being until I could get a welder out here to take a look at it. It seems to be a common procedure done here at work for some of the parts we overhaul.

 

As you likely know, if you don't drill it or don't do it right at the end of the crack to relieve the stress the crack will continue. That is also the reason to make the doubler that shape, to not run a continuous bead, and not align the plug welds.

 

A big welcome from the outback, mate.
Most helpful bunch of guys on the planet can be found here.
Hope you get that crack sorted out. I guess that would be your main priority now, getting that chassis sorted. Best of luck with the build

 

Thanks again gentleman. All your replies have been great and the info is appreciated.

 

In addition to the stuff AX said, I'd cut out and replace that top section of the frame. Cut out a trapezoidal section so the welds don't go straight across the flange. Make full-penetration welds and stress relieve. It looks like the crack started where he burned the flange starting/ending his arc?

Where in PHX are you? My son just moved to Glendale, so I'll be out there from time to time.

 

I will pass that info along to the welder when I have them come out and take a look at it. I'm located in Laveen, basically southwest phoenix. About 20-30 minutes away from Glendale. Thanks for the reply