Tach not moving
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Chariton, IA
Tach not moving
I have been diagnosing a cold no start on my other truck. if the EOT is below about 60 deg It wont start. I've done everything except pull the VC's to watch the oil spouts, but it's looking like i need injectors. 330,000 mi on original injectors.
Tried it this morning and noticed the tach wasn't moving so I get my Infinity out of the other truck and I notice there is 2 pids for engine speed so i set one each on my screen and they are not the same. They are running about 20 to 40 difference. Around 200 RPM but the tach isn't moving. Replaced the CPS with a ford one from Riffraff and same thing. Is this normal.
I guess I never paid attention to my tach, i'm usually looking at my Infinity.
Tried it this morning and noticed the tach wasn't moving so I get my Infinity out of the other truck and I notice there is 2 pids for engine speed so i set one each on my screen and they are not the same. They are running about 20 to 40 difference. Around 200 RPM but the tach isn't moving. Replaced the CPS with a ford one from Riffraff and same thing. Is this normal.
I guess I never paid attention to my tach, i'm usually looking at my Infinity.
stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 8
From: south jersey
On my late 99, the tach never moves while cranking. It never has since new. When the starter is engaged, all non essential power is used for the starter and glow plugs. Some say their trucks show rpm while cranking, and while I'm sure that is true, I don't know what years do that.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Chariton, IA
Thanks all,
I had read on here where people with no start issues were told if tach isn't moving you need to replace CPS. Just started mine after being plugged in and the tach didn't move till after it started.
I had read on here where people with no start issues were told if tach isn't moving you need to replace CPS. Just started mine after being plugged in and the tach didn't move till after it started.
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 4
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
Chris, how long since oil change, what type of oil? Have you checked glow plug operation. Glow plugs seem to be the first in the line of things to check. If you go to oregonfuelinjection.com there is a link to troubleshooting the 7.3 fuel injection, both cold and hot no/hard start. I would bet it is not injectors. Even old injectors up in Alaska on ancient Cat engines will start. They may run rough, but they will start. The 6.0 engines are more prone to not start cold when the injectors get old and gummed up, because of the poor quality FICM power output and the design of the injector mechanicals. Our injectors and the IDM do not seem to be as sensitive. Although you could certainly have a weak IDM. Check that website. Good luck. Larry
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Chariton, IA
Thanks Larry,
New oil couple weeks ago 5-30 synthetic, checked GPR and ohmed glow plugs and wire harness. Checked voltage and new batteries. Some others have had the same problem with the 7.3 injectors and discovered it was the injectors. Several of the injector builders web sites talk about it to. The poppet valves get worn and wont allow the oil through when cold. Once the oil warms up it flows easier and will fire the injector.
Got this off of oregon fuel injection web site
"Injectors bad; Injectors with high miles (200,000 miles or more)
can fail to operate cold. If correct PW displays on cranking you
can remove the valve cover and watch the oil spill discharge,
every injector should discharge oil when pulsed by the IDM during
cranking. If no pulse of oil then the injector isn’t activating and
putting fuel into the cylinders. Running several buzz tests cold will
sometimes free up the injectors. This is a typical high miles
problem particularly with inadequate oil change intervals."
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
New oil couple weeks ago 5-30 synthetic, checked GPR and ohmed glow plugs and wire harness. Checked voltage and new batteries. Some others have had the same problem with the 7.3 injectors and discovered it was the injectors. Several of the injector builders web sites talk about it to. The poppet valves get worn and wont allow the oil through when cold. Once the oil warms up it flows easier and will fire the injector.
Got this off of oregon fuel injection web site
"Injectors bad; Injectors with high miles (200,000 miles or more)
can fail to operate cold. If correct PW displays on cranking you
can remove the valve cover and watch the oil spill discharge,
every injector should discharge oil when pulsed by the IDM during
cranking. If no pulse of oil then the injector isn’t activating and
putting fuel into the cylinders. Running several buzz tests cold will
sometimes free up the injectors. This is a typical high miles
problem particularly with inadequate oil change intervals."
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,321
Likes: 584
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Thanks Larry,
New oil couple weeks ago 5-30 synthetic, checked GPR and ohmed glow plugs and wire harness. Checked voltage and new batteries. Some others have had the same problem with the 7.3 injectors and discovered it was the injectors. Several of the injector builders web sites talk about it to. The poppet valves get worn and wont allow the oil through when cold. Once the oil warms up it flows easier and will fire the injector.
Got this off of oregon fuel injection web site
"Injectors bad; Injectors with high miles (200,000 miles or more)
can fail to operate cold. If correct PW displays on cranking you
can remove the valve cover and watch the oil spill discharge,
every injector should discharge oil when pulsed by the IDM during
cranking. If no pulse of oil then the injector isn’t activating and
putting fuel into the cylinders. Running several buzz tests cold will
sometimes free up the injectors. This is a typical high miles
problem particularly with inadequate oil change intervals."
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
New oil couple weeks ago 5-30 synthetic, checked GPR and ohmed glow plugs and wire harness. Checked voltage and new batteries. Some others have had the same problem with the 7.3 injectors and discovered it was the injectors. Several of the injector builders web sites talk about it to. The poppet valves get worn and wont allow the oil through when cold. Once the oil warms up it flows easier and will fire the injector.
Got this off of oregon fuel injection web site
"Injectors bad; Injectors with high miles (200,000 miles or more)
can fail to operate cold. If correct PW displays on cranking you
can remove the valve cover and watch the oil spill discharge,
every injector should discharge oil when pulsed by the IDM during
cranking. If no pulse of oil then the injector isn’t activating and
putting fuel into the cylinders. Running several buzz tests cold will
sometimes free up the injectors. This is a typical high miles
problem particularly with inadequate oil change intervals."
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
OK, I stand corrected, but...is there ever a possibility that like the 6.0 FICM's an IDM can have a low power output due to age? This could then make the injectors look like the whole problem, when it is really two problems? Kind of like a marriage-it can be a combination of issues to quote psychologists. So the wear is probably somewhat related to dirty oil-suggesting that an oi bypass filter system over the long haul is worth the investment.
My point about the cold start issue is that it seems like a cold no start would more likely be from something that would affect the whole motor. What are the odds that none of the injectors are willing to fire when cold? Did the truck at one point start but run really rough until the oil warmed? And then this problem got worse over time? So one other thought is that it can be cheaper to plug in the truck through a timer than replace the injectors at least until the dollars are available. OK, I'll be quiet now. Larry
My point about the cold start issue is that it seems like a cold no start would more likely be from something that would affect the whole motor. What are the odds that none of the injectors are willing to fire when cold? Did the truck at one point start but run really rough until the oil warmed? And then this problem got worse over time? So one other thought is that it can be cheaper to plug in the truck through a timer than replace the injectors at least until the dollars are available. OK, I'll be quiet now. Larry
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Chariton, IA
It probably could be a ficm problem too, but I'm not sure how to check that other than sending it in somewhere.
Once the EOT gets up to 60 or so it will start but runs rough until the EOT gets over 100 then smooths out some but when you step into it, like taking off from a stop, it feels like its missing, until EOT climbs to about 140. Then it runs like a new truck. I'm guessing I have 2 or 3 injectors giving me problems.
As for getting worse over time, I just got the truck a few weeks ago and I'm guessing that's why the PO sold it. At least I got it pretty cheap.
Once the EOT gets up to 60 or so it will start but runs rough until the EOT gets over 100 then smooths out some but when you step into it, like taking off from a stop, it feels like its missing, until EOT climbs to about 140. Then it runs like a new truck. I'm guessing I have 2 or 3 injectors giving me problems.
As for getting worse over time, I just got the truck a few weeks ago and I'm guessing that's why the PO sold it. At least I got it pretty cheap.
Semper Fi
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 1
I have been running full synthetic Rotella 5w-40 for the last two years with good result. Last week I changed to dino Delo 15w-40 i got for 11$ a gallon so I figured it was worth a shot as my injectors seemed noisy on the t6. With the 15-40 its alot quieter but I have noticed my engine runs just a tad rough until it really gets up to temperature. Coincidence or symptomatic of 230k injectors on thicker oil??/ IDK could just be crazy.
Try full syn oil and see if that helps
Try full syn oil and see if that helps