Noticed while driving my 69 f250 with 360 today that the engine would pause for a split second (almost unnoticeable) and then regain power. While turning the corner into my neighborhood I lost all power and the engine turned off. Started right back up put it in drive drove a few feet stalled again. It started right back up and drove just to turn off again.


The power steering pump felt hard to turn but I would think it would screech the belt before it would lock up right?

Are there any other possible causes I should check? Thanks!!

 

Prolly other problem than p/s pump. Fuel pump is weak my 1st guess.

 

More input as Number 5 would say. Have ya been driving the truck daily and this just started? Just got her on the road and found this problem?

If she has been sitting than fuel filters, old gas, Carb gummed up? As said a weak fuel pump.

Please tell us the "rest of the story" with "more input".

 

I've been driving it with no problems for a while and this just happened…. Even better just went out side to check the fuel pump and it WON'T START! Just awesome for me!

A little back history… I just replaced carb (new holley 2300), coil (pertronix) and distributor (pertronix) drove great for about 4 or 5 days. I have noticed a slight pause while driving and then today it cut off while I was turning a corner and cut off a few more times while driving home but always started right back up.

Now just went out side started and immediately died and now won't even start…

Pulled the fuel hose off carb and had TONS of pressure behind it and sprayed a bunch of fuel on the intake. Is this normal? I've never seen a fuel line with that much pressure. Also I let the fuel line hang down inside a bottle and I was gonna see how much fuel came out when I cranked it and without cranking it just kept pouring out and filled the entire bottle.

This is so frustrating!! Please if you have any input or ides of what could be causing my motor to not run any more please let me know ASAP! This is my work truck and I need to haul some stuff soon. THANK YOU ALL!

 

What is this wire and metal thing on the coil bracket? Does this need to be attached to the coil?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp1Z...ature=youtu.be

I was able to take a video of it rough starting and then randomly dying before it quit starting.

What do you think?

 

Put the points back in and see if the issue goes away. Wouldn't be the first time a Pertronix fell prey to infant mortality.

 

You think it could quit that quick? Less than a week? I sure hope thats not the case (although the distributor and coil were brand new they are about 2-3 years old sitting on another motor and I don't think I can get them fixed from pertronix…). I don't know if it was me attempting to crank the motor over too long or what but I did smell a weird burning smell I will take a look at the dist. for any burns.

I was able to get the motor started again (rough start up) and then it idles for about 5 seconds tops if I'm not on the throttle and then does like someone turned off all power to the truck. Is this a symptom of a bad dist?

 

Sounds like a dist, ignition problem to me. The wire by the coil you asked
about is to a condenser and used for radio noise suppression.
It is not needed to help it run. Test for spark when it won't run. If possible put the
old point system back in for a test. I think your fuel system is just fine.
And the problem in in your ignition system. Bad control modual or coil or
both at this point. As for the burnt wire smell it is prolly a hot starter motor
from cranking to long. Is the coil getting hot?
What engine does it have? Can ya put in a DS II system? As good or better than any aftermarket.
This is a stock ford electronic system. But I am not sure what year works.
Others will know this here.

First of all check for a good spark when it wont run and we can go from there.
And Hang on M8. We will get ya going again.

 

It seems to be running fine now… Gotta love old trucks with ghosts! Didn't really do anything except take the cap off and wiggle wires around and sweat my *** off out in the sun. It was running with a little bit of a weird idle at 12 BTDC so I just timed it where the idle sounded right.

Only thing I noticed in the cap was black marks from sparking and that some of the plastic pieces on the posts inside the cap were broken off like the rotor was hitting them or something. I'll see if I can get a clear pic of what I am talking about.

Haven't taken it on a test drive yet don't want to get stranded.

 

This red wire looks like it's very close to grounding out to coil case..
Plus looks like it's been repaired with the tape on it may be not making good contact their. Check all your ground even the one on the back of the intake manifold to cab that many guys think is not needed. And even the one in the dizzy should all be in tact.

And lastly did you recheck your engine timing after or if you messed around with the dizzy.

So did the dizzy gets turned any or a loose hold down bolt on the dizzy and it could have turned some.
orich

 

Dist. Was tight and was previously timed at 12. I was told to do that for emissions.

I plan on buying new battery and both ground wires today. I will also check the wire on the coil and replace that.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Alright guys I narrowed the problem down to the ignition. When I wiggle the wires connected to the ignition under the dash it shuts off immediately. Any ideas what it could be?? Thanks!

 

Could just be a bad switch. Does it cut out when you wiggle the key?

 

Pull the whole switch with the wires still connected and look it over mostly switch & plug pig tail need replacing. This was a common problem if if the switch has the round contacts.. Look at the pink small wire this goes to the coil . Start motor wiggle them see if your can make it stall out the motor like before..
orich