Champion Radiators?
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From: Menifee, CA
Champion Radiators?
does anybody have any experience with this brand? I'm looking at an all-aluminum, radiator for around 275 shipped. It even has the toppings for a tranny cooler line, I just have to transfer them from my old radiator or put in new ones. Its also a 4 core.
Anybody know of their quality?
Anybody know of their quality?
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I was looking at an all aluminum radiator and I think I went with the aluminum radiator that has the plastic sides for the trans cooler. I didn't see it as being worth it. Really that's all you get in an all-aluminum rad...are the sides are aluminum instead of plastic. It might help to cool the trans fluid a little more but I doubt it. If you are worried about the trans fluid temp, I'd suggest an after market trans cooler you can put in front of the rad for more cooling power.
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I was looking at an all aluminum radiator and I think I went with the aluminum radiator that has the plastic sides for the trans cooler. I didn't see it as being worth it. Really that's all you get in an all-aluminum rad...are the sides are aluminum instead of plastic. It might help to cool the trans fluid a little more but I doubt it. If you are worried about the trans fluid temp, I'd suggest an after market trans cooler you can put in front of the rad for more cooling power.
Do you know of any?
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That's the reason why I was looking at the Champion. A 4-Core all aluminum radiator with trans-cooler fittings and original mount locations.
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Or if you do routine maintenance and flushes that could be it. Also, most morons use hose water and not distilled. But ethylene glycol (the chemical in antifreeze), is a **** poor conductor of heat. So thats why water is used in the mix. The boiling point is higher when its mixed with water.
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Or if you do routine maintenance and flushes that could be it. Also, most morons use hose water and not distilled. But ethylene glycol (the chemical in antifreeze), is a **** poor conductor of heat. So thats why water is used in the mix. The boiling point is higher when its mixed with water.
When I had the stock fan on the motor I never had a problem with heat (I have a digital water temp gauge).
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What fan do you have now?
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It's one of these - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16842/overview/
That might not be the exact size but that's the brand. It's dual fan, 4000 CFM.
That might not be the exact size but that's the brand. It's dual fan, 4000 CFM.
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From: Menifee, CA
It's one of these - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16842/overview/
That might not be the exact size but that's the brand. It's dual fan, 4000 CFM.
That might not be the exact size but that's the brand. It's dual fan, 4000 CFM.
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No modifying. It comes with the necessary brackets and such to install it as a universal replacement. However, to make things more convenient, I did have my friend weld the brackets to the fan housing. I had originally installed it with the supplied bolts as I mentioned but found a more convenient way of permanently mounting the brackets, so I called him.
Note these pull 24 amps, and I think that's for each fan. So you'll need to get a new alternator. If you do go this route, I'd suggest converting to a 3G and getting one that has more amps than you need, just for extra room. I upgraded the stock 95 amp to a 160 amp 3G and had a 175 amp fuse between that and the battery. Upon inspection one day I noticed the fuse was twisted and the housing melted as if someone played football with it...so I was at capacity. I have since upgraded and no longer have that issue.
Note these pull 24 amps, and I think that's for each fan. So you'll need to get a new alternator. If you do go this route, I'd suggest converting to a 3G and getting one that has more amps than you need, just for extra room. I upgraded the stock 95 amp to a 160 amp 3G and had a 175 amp fuse between that and the battery. Upon inspection one day I noticed the fuse was twisted and the housing melted as if someone played football with it...so I was at capacity. I have since upgraded and no longer have that issue.
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From: Menifee, CA
No modifying. It comes with the necessary brackets and such to install it as a universal replacement. However, to make things more convenient, I did have my friend weld the brackets to the fan housing. I had originally installed it with the supplied bolts as I mentioned but found a more convenient way of permanently mounting the brackets, so I called him.
Note these pull 24 amps, and I think that's for each fan. So you'll need to get a new alternator. If you do go this route, I'd suggest converting to a 3G and getting one that has more amps than you need, just for extra room. I upgraded the stock 95 amp to a 160 amp 3G and had a 175 amp fuse between that and the battery. Upon inspection one day I noticed the fuse was twisted and the housing melted as if someone played football with it...so I was at capacity. I have since upgraded and no longer have that issue.
Note these pull 24 amps, and I think that's for each fan. So you'll need to get a new alternator. If you do go this route, I'd suggest converting to a 3G and getting one that has more amps than you need, just for extra room. I upgraded the stock 95 amp to a 160 amp 3G and had a 175 amp fuse between that and the battery. Upon inspection one day I noticed the fuse was twisted and the housing melted as if someone played football with it...so I was at capacity. I have since upgraded and no longer have that issue.
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From: Menifee, CA
The 3g alternator is on my list of upgrades to do. Probably buy from RJM tech and also get the headlight harness, and run LED lights everywhere but the headlights. That along with a more powerful alternator and unless my battery goes dead, I won't run out of power.
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With the aluminum rad I have, many times in the winter the fans don't even turn on (the PMC turns them on at 180F). In the summer with the fans on, I don't think I have seen the water temp above 200F unless I sit at a signal on the hot asphalt for an extended period of time. I am happy with this setup.