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98 E250 Power Steering Issue

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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 08:16 PM
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98 E250 Power Steering Issue

I have a 98 E250 with 5.4L. The power steering has recently gotten very stiff, much like it feels when the fluid is low. The fluid is normal however. Is there an issue it can be other than the pump going bad? There are no leaks and nothing seems out of the ordinary. I loosened the belt and the pulley turns fine.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:39 AM
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A WAG would say just because the pump pulley turns freely doesn't mean its producing necessary pressure and flow to properly assist the steering box.

Either the pump or the box are showing signs of their age, not sure how to test the pump though.

Is this a sudden development or has it become more noticeable over time?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:18 AM
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Just noticed it a week or so ago. Just became sort of stiff to turn at low speeds. When you turn the steering wheel you get some resistance and then it will give a little. Sort of like you are pulling against a rubber band or something. It has gotten slowly but progressively worse. Then is no noise or leaks.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:31 AM
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You didn't mention your mileage but I'm drifting towards this being the box itself OR something in the steering system overall. Typically the pump will make noise of some sort when/if its going south.

I'll also assume no one has been trying to adjust your steering box pre-load? Some who attempt this go too far and create more problems than before they began.

A good & experienced eye to inspect your front end would be useful. IF its the steering box they run from about $160 to near $300 (Cardone A1 vs Ford reman'd). Installation not too complicated but might require some heavy duty tools removing the old box.

Pitman arm can also be an issue without the proper puller, sometimes available on loan from Advance Auto, AutoZone, et al.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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Yeah that was what I was thinking too. The pump is not doing anything itself to make you question it. The mileage is about 130,000. About because the odometer was not working for awhile after a transmission change by the previous owner. Working now but only a guess as to total mileage. Nothing has been done or adjusted on the steering by anyone in the year I have had it.
I am going to lift the front end off the ground today and see if I can find any visual issues.
Any ideas of ways to test the steering box without replacing or taking to a mechanic. Don't have one I trust!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:54 AM
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Well I'm thinking with the front wheels off the ground and the frame FULLY SUPPORTED by jack stands, engine running turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, observe any tightness along the way. That might reveal something.

Doing the ball joint test with tires just slightly off the ground would be another easy test.

Grab and shake every movable steering component, checking for looseness. A second person turning the wheel while you're under there, watch for binding or anything else that doesn't seem right. (Something terribly wrong tends to jump out at you in most cases.

Once you've done all this report back and we'll continue trying to help. I'll subscribe to this thread in case I can offer anything else.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:01 AM
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Will do. About to pull it into the shop now to replace front brakes. Will post findings asap.
Thanks for all the help
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Ok with both front wheels off the ground it has a stiff or hard type feeling to it. As you turn the steering wheel it has a stiff feeling then easier then another stiffness etc. Not hard to turn all the time but at places in the path from stop to stop. Nothing visual wrong but I am by myself and not quite limber enough to see under it and turn the wheel. Will report on that when an assistant arrives later today.
Only change that has been made is tires. Put new tires on it and it did start some times after that. Only tire difference is I went from a 75 to 85 series 16 inch tire.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Smithdad
Just noticed it a week or so ago. Just became sort of stiff to turn at low speeds. When you turn the steering wheel you get some resistance and then it will give a little. Sort of like you are pulling against a rubber band or something. It has gotten slowly but progressively worse. Then is no noise or leaks.
That sounds an awful lot like a binding steering shaft U-joint. Had it happen on a Kenworth and my Town Car. Got so bad in the KW that I almost had to have it towed.

I'd check those out ASAP, and if not that start taking a better look at the steering gear.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom
That sounds an awful lot like a binding steering shaft U-joint. Had it happen on a Kenworth and my Town Car. Got so bad in the KW that I almost had to have it towed.

I'd check those out ASAP, and if not that start taking a better look at the steering gear.
Not real sure I know what the steering shaft u-joint is. Is there a u-joint coming out of the steering box? I had someone steer it back and forth while I checked it out and I did not see anything out of the ordinary.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Smithdad
Not real sure I know what the steering shaft u-joint is. Is there a u-joint coming out of the steering box? I had someone steer it back and forth while I checked it out and I did not see anything out of the ordinary.
The steering shaft is what connects your steering wheel to the steering gear, they typically have one or two U-joints on them. There is no way to check a U-joint by visually looking at it; you remove the shaft and check for smooth operation.

The frozen joints on my KW and Lincoln looked just fine too. But they weren't fine.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 06:47 AM
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Okay building upon your findings with wheels off ground and Tom's astute observation the U-Joint is very possibly the culprit. Here's an image of my own '03 E250 which should be identical:



Its located just above the steering box, the above photo taken looking downward just behind the radiator.

Never removed one myself but I believe the entire steering column needs partially removed and pulled backwards towards the interior. FWIW most every used steering column I've seen often includes this joint which suggests its easier to free it from the steering box first.

Not sure if your's have welded itself to the shaft but if so having the column completely out would give maximum access in order to apply heat.

BTW I also experienced something similar but on a '76 Chevy P20 step van--simply lubricating the joint took care of that though. Too bad the newer u-joints can't be lubed.

HTH
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:03 AM
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You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the pictures and extra work you put in. I was visualizing everything in the front steering set up but not above the steering box to the steering wheel. Makes a lot of sense. I will look at it close today and will update on the progress. Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Never removed one myself but I believe the entire steering column needs partially removed and pulled backwards towards the interior. FWIW most every used steering column I've seen often includes this joint which suggests its easier to free it from the steering box first.
I've never done one on an E-van, but I believe they are all collapsable as to not impale the driver in a collision. The shafts I've removed did not require the column to be removed, I just removed the bolt and pushed the shaft inward. The shaft on my 17-year-old Town Car didn't even give me much trouble with this.

I then soaked it in oil and worked the joint to get it to loosen up. It hasn't given me issues since.





Here you can see the part of the shaft that telescopes in.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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I'll dig into my E250's column since I already have a few interior panels covering it--another project "soon".

I do recall when changing my steering box that joint was an absolute bear to remove.

We'll know more in a bit----I hope.
 
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