I've looked everywhere on the internet but I keep running into dead ends. I have a 1994 Ford F150 351W 4x4 has duel tanks. Problem I'm having is that there is no power getting to the fuel pumps. I've checked the fuses and the relay (I read there were two but I only found the one in the fuse box under the hood), I also did the EEC check when I grounded out #6 you could hear the relay click. Still no power to the pumps though. Also checked the switch that's on the passenger side behind the kick panel. I'm at a loss here. I bought it like this so I don't know what was previously done. Next item on my list was going to be the fuel tank switch, I read that could cause it although it does register the gas amount when you switch tanks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

This is from my '93 book but i'm sure it is roughly the same.

https://i.imgur.com/sKpz6EF.jpg

As you can see, "I" and "O" are both protect the fuel pump relay. They are both 20 AMP fuses. Check those. (This is the fuse compartment under the hood by the way.) I would also suggest checking that fuel tank selector switch. It's fully possible to get tank level readings and not power the pumps. Also, the relay is fully capable of "clicking in" without closing the relay contacts completely due to pitting or wear, thus not allowing 12V to pass through to the inertia switch.

If you have a good multi-meter, pull the switch and leave the wires connected. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Place the Red multi-meter lead on the R/Y wire and the black meter lead on a good ground source.

You should be getting about 12v DC. If not, your switch SHOULD be good. This means the problem is the fuses, inertia switch or fuel pump relay If you are...

Select the REAR tank. If possible, check to see if BR/W (that's brown with white stripe) is getting 12V DC by placing the red lead on it and the black lead to a good ground source.

Select the front tank, but instead of the BR/W, place the red multi-meter lead on the solid red wire.

Both of these should yield 12v in their respective positions. The only other thing is fuel pump plugs corroding. This is not out of the ordinary, but the likely-hood of them both being too corroded for contact is rather low.

Let me know how it goes.

 

You only have one fuel pump relay and only one fuse for the fuel pumps. The gas gauges are a different circuit and just because they work does not mean the fuel pump contacts are OK in the selector switch.

Hearing the click when you ground pin #6 with the key on means that the PCM Power relay is OK and sending power to the coil of the fuel pump relay. You need to check for power at the fuel shut-off switch at the passenger kick panel with pin #6 grounded and the key on. Use a loading test light to check for power as a meter will not work as it will tell you that you have power when you do not.

Note that when the key is just turned on without grounding pin #6 you will only have power in the fuel pump circuit for one second.

 

Ok so I figured out the power wasn't being sent through the switch. Changed it out for about 13$. Now I have power to the tanks but the fuel pump is bad so I'll have to get a new one. But at least I know why it won't start! Thanks guys for the help I appreciate it greatly!

 

Glad you got it.
A bad fuel pump can draw more current and take out the selector switch.