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Ok so when act up and dies or wont start. once again you need to test the terminating resistors.
I see no mention of disconnecting the rcm either
Hey cheezit, please, please guide me into testing the terminating resistors, I can't seem to find anything online, in the forum, or on AllDataDIY that will get me started finding them and testing them. I depowered the SRS and disconnected the RCM, no change in any of my issues.
Originally Posted by m-chan68
2006 model year F-250s with 4x4 and auto are a dime a dozen. With that in mind, I would try swapping out the PCM with a known good PCM from another identical application truck to somewhere and re-evaluate. All of the lost communication codes you list seem to commonly tie into the PCM. I will be honest, and tell you that PCMs very seldom on these trucks but anything is possible, particularly if that driver side battery cover is MIA (it is there for a reason). What readings do you get when you ohm pins #6 and #14 of the data link connector? You should be getting 60 ohms. If you are getting 120 ohms, you have a module offline.
Hey m-chan68, thanks for joining in the thread. I did find a compatible PCM on eBay last week and ordered it, the seller canceled the sale saying he discovered that it was damaged. I can't locate any PCMs or instrument clusters for sale within a couple hours drive of me. :-/
The battery cover is in place and everything is very clean and undamaged. I get 60 ohms when I ohm DLC pins 6 & 14.
At the PCM body harness connector, C1381A, I get 2.6v (instead of a suggested normal 2.7v) at #13 CAN+ High; and 2.55v (instead of a suggested normal 2.4v) at #14 CAN- Low. Is this of any significance?
Can you elaborate on testing the terminating resistors that cheezit speaks of?
Does anyone have a compatible instrument cluster for sale or rent? :-)
As previously mentioned, any pre-'08 Super Duty truck doesn't give a s*** if a cluster is even plugged in or not, in order to run. I have been able to start, run and drive an '03 truck that I ran into where only two of the gauges were working and ended up needing to be sent out to repair, due to replacement clusters being obsolete from Ford. If you are getting 60 ohms, it doesn't seem like you have a module offline, but rather a module communication to another module concern. Which in your case appears to be the PCM, because there doesn't appear to be a valid reason for your truck to be de-rating engine output as you've described thus far.
There is info in the above thread.
Were are you located?
Thank you cheezit. I'm in Frankfort, KY. With key off:
DLC 6 & 13 Open Loop
DLC 6 & 14 60 ohms
#6 is CAN+
#13 is FEPS
#14 is CAN-
What does the open loop on 6 & 13 tell me?
Originally Posted by m-chan68
As previously mentioned, any pre-'08 Super Duty truck doesn't give a s*** if a cluster is even plugged in or not, in order to run. I have been able to start, run and drive an '03 truck that I ran into where only two of the gauges were working and ended up needing to be sent out to repair, due to replacement clusters being obsolete from Ford. If you are getting 60 ohms, it doesn't seem like you have a module offline, but rather a module communication to another module concern. Which in your case appears to be the PCM, because there doesn't appear to be a valid reason for your truck to be de-rating engine output as you've described thus far.
Sounds correct, my truck ran no differently when disconnecting one, then the other, then both IC connectors.
What do you make of the truck maintaining a constant RPM with cruise control on and momentarily dropping to idle every 2-3 seconds without the cruise. Would you call that brief drop de-rating? You think the PCM has dain bramage?
What do you make of the truck maintaining a constant RPM with cruise control on and momentarily dropping to idle every 2-3 seconds without the cruise. Would you call that brief drop de-rating? You think the PCM has dain bramage?
Given the symptoms seem to occur randomly without any kind of pattern you can describe, it seems to be the only plausible explanation. I kind of suspect the dealer you took your truck to has a similar suspicion. This is why I would "borrow" another known good PCM to try, before you plunk down the money for a new one, since they are not cheap.
You think that's bad, we have HS-CAN and MS-CAN networks to pinpoint now on the DLC of these new rides. That electronics classroom course was very interesting to say the least. These new vehicles equipped with IA or intelligent access (a k a "push button" start), you wouldn't believe how many modules are involved "shaking hands" with the simple push of that start button. It's mind boggling to say the least. Sorry for the hijack.
Given the symptoms seem to occur randomly without any kind of pattern you can describe, it seems to be the only plausible explanation. I kind of suspect the dealer you took your truck to has a similar suspicion. This is why I would "borrow" another known good PCM to try, before you plunk down the money for a new one, since they are not cheap.
The dealership wanted to replace the IC, tech said he was 99% sure that the cluster was the problem.
I have a used PCM on the way, will install it on Thursday. Anything special need to be done, or just pop it in? I don't have chipped keys or PATS. I understand that, should it fix the problems I have, that I'll need to visit the dealership to have the PCM programmed to the truck, correct?
You are correct. Worse case you will get a vid mismatch dtc, assuming the pcm is a 6c3z 12a650 or later but any of the pcm should make it run. But as stated prior my vote goes to the ic. But ive been wrong before
The most current calibration level for a 2006 or up F-250/F-250 4x4 auto truck is 6U7A-12A650-FFE so it should work without issue, if you plug it and play. If it happened to originate from a truck with different sized tires and/or axle ratio (most SRW trucks are 3.73), you will see a speedo needle increase at a disproportionate rate and an ABS light on. However, it can be re-programmed to your VIN if desired. You would simply need to have the programmable parameters verified (and adjusted if needed) to your vehicle specs. Understand, I am NOT saying the cause of your issue is the PCM, it is only a SUGGESTED swap for testing purposes only since it is relatively quick and simple on your truck. Nor am I afraid to man up to being wrong as well. At the end of the day, we are all humans and at my age, I am still very open minded to living and learning. A cluster may very well be to cause of your issues, but I'm just saying I would be hard pressed to believe it, given that having it plugged in or not does not affect the way the engine runs.
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