When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In short. Battery light came on a few weeks ago. Scangaugell was reading 11.2, 11.6 then 12.5 and the light went out. Did this a few days and replaced the alternator with the 140 upgrade with the 58mm pulley.
No more red battery light and scangauge11 reads 14.2, 14.1 until about 5 or 10 minutes of driving. Then it stays around 13.5-13.8. Just curious to know what my actual amp output is at idle without accessories running and with them on. I'm thinking I could use my Fluke meter to see actual amp output.
In short. Battery light came on a few weeks ago. Scangaugell was reading 11.2, 11.6 then 12.5 and the light went out. Did this a few days and replaced the alternator with the 140 upgrade with the 58mm pulley.
No more red battery light and scangauge11 reads 14.2, 14.1 until about 5 or 10 minutes of driving. Then it stays around 13.5-13.8. Just curious to know what my actual amp output is at idle without accessories running and with them on. I'm thinking I could use my Fluke meter to see actual amp output.
Thanks in advance.
Eddy
Too me it sounds like your good to go. The alt. should only put out what the batterys need or you overheat them.
Thx all for the advice. I didnt think my fluke 75 would read amp output. Sounds like I'm good to go as it seems.
Josh, I did pick up that smaller pulley off eBay. Great deal too. Thanks for the tip. Put it on last weekend. If I new what I know now I would have gotten the 94-97, 3G large case 130 amp alternator instead with 3g to 6g pigtail. That's a better alternator and puts out more amps at idle than the large case 6g. ill run this one till it craps out and switch to the 3g.
Sorry to thread jack, i'm guessing i have a stock alternator because at idle my alternator doesn't like to charge. At high idle it will, and high way driving around 13.5-14 it's jumpy.
Was stock likely to not charge at idle? i always have issues with my batteries getting low so i keep it on a maintainer to save my FICM as much as possible
Sorry to thread jack, i'm guessing i have a stock alternator because at idle my alternator doesn't like to charge. At high idle it will, and high way driving around 13.5-14 it's jumpy.
Was stock likely to not charge at idle? i always have issues with my batteries getting low so i keep it on a maintainer to save my FICM as much as possible
Not enough info. How do you use the truck? If they're short trips you'll never compensate for the glow plugs. You need to supply more info.
So turning my truck on and off 5 times in the drive thru does that count Mike LOL
And then you drive 5 miles home to feed the kids? Or drink your beer, LOL. Sure death to something in the system. JMHO. People, no offense, don't realize these are not the every day gassers or last decade diesels.
You can also check alt output with one of these. The load adapter in the foreground is kinda cool. Put it on the battery and connect the cable to the other end, crank with the buss bar in place (to check alt), disconnect buss bar with the thumb screws and the scale reads up to 90amps with the resistor that's on there now, or you can put a different one on and read to 180 amps.
It also works on the new GM HEI ignition systems!
I've had this thing for years and it still works. Bought it from Sears in the late 70's and it broke the bank at the time lol. The instruction manual has pictures of cars from the 60's and even discusses testing generators. I think it was old when it was new!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.