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I was leaving for work in my 2001 SuperCrew last week and I got about 50 yards down the street and it just died. It will turn over, but never start. I borrowed a gauge and did a test on the valve and I turned the key on and it comes up ZERO. No up and down, nothing. It is a 5.4 and has about 155,000 miles on it.
I have watched the videos on changing the fuel pump and I (Sadly) know I can't get to it by removing the bed because it is a SuperCrew. I also know there will be some that say just have someone do it, but I just can't swing it right now. So before I head down that road, is there anything else I can do to make sure it's the fuel pump? Thanks in advance for the help.
Fuel pumps aren't that hard to replace. I'd think dropping the tank would be easier than removing the bed. I've done both and would sooner drop a tank than remove a bed.
No, the fuel pump is under the back seat in a super crew. I would almost rather cut a hole in the floor to get to it! How high do you think I need to get the truck jacked up to have the access I need? Not looking forward to this!
I have access to a hoist. You could drive the truck up on a set of ramps on the drivers side. You should be able to let the tank down and unhook the lines and pull the tank out from under the truck to remove the sending unit. You will need a tool for releasing the fuel lines.
Oh, it's in the tank under the back seat. Ya, I would drop the tank and may do that to mine just to replace all the old rubber hoses. Doing some major work on the truck myself for longevity and may be going to Canada and don't want any issues to spring up there.
I guess I'll try to jack it up and put it on the ramp. No driving it anywhere.... Yeah, I think I need the red tool and the gold tool for my connections. Thanks for the help. Not excited, but a several hundred dollar savings will be worth it in the end.
So before I head down that road, is there anything else I can do to make sure it's the fuel pump? Thanks in advance for the help.
I would check related fuses,fuel pump relay,inertia switch,grounds and wiring harness
Pick up a repair manual for warnings/cautions,tests and procedures ,it's a few dollars well spent.
Good luck and keep us posted
So I decided I would just cut a hole in the floor under the seat.....not! It won't work. It is just not flat enough and includes the hook where the seat connects! It could not be placed any more perfectly just beyond the bed of the truck and just inside the cab. Insanity!! I went ahead and took out the broken seat belt retractor while I was in there. Any ideas on where to get one?
I digress...my question now is, would you jack up the front and back on one side or the back on both sides? I'm going to get the pump, strainer and hose tools (I'll never use again) now and I'll check when I get back.
BTW I checked the fuse and the relay behind the passenger kick panel and they are OK. So on to the change out. This will not be as fun as the two computers I fixed this morning!!
So I jacked up the back. I got the straps off and lowered the tank to the jack stands. Now, I can not get one connection loose!!! Not the electrical or the gas lines. I have pushed the plastic tools in as far as could and pushed and nothing. And have no idea how the electrical disconnects. Very frustrated! Any ideas?
I also have a picture for you when I finish. One of those "never do this" pics!
I changed my fuel pump over the weekend. 2001 Supercrew. Very easy job. I did not jack up the truck. I used my floor jack to support the tank. Remove the 2 straps holding the tank in place (1/2" socket and 18" extension). Lower the front of the tank to the ground. The rear of the tank sits in a cage and I left it in place. I did not disconnect the filler neck. Unplug the four pin connector for the pump/level (there is a small release tab on the connector similar to any of the electrical connectors on the truck). I used my fuel line tool to remove the supply/return lines. The lines are larger diameter than at the fuel filter, but the process is exactly the same (compress the connection while pushing the tool into the female side of the connection to release the fingers). There are 6 small bolts that hold the pump/sending unit in place. Use a 5/16" socket to remove the bolts. The entire assembly pulls right out and I only replaced the pump and strainer, not the sending unit. It was very straight forward and only took about 45 minutes. Hope this helps.
Wow! Thanks Pounder! If I can get this done without taking it all the way off, I'll be in repair heaven!! I have the plastic release tools. Do I need to get the metal ones? Or is there a trick I'm not doing to release them? BTW, I had to jack mine up. There was just no room to work. And no, NovaNewfie, no pics. I can barely get my hand in there over the drive shaft. I wish I could find one to practice on.
I may try it this afternoon, however, winter returned to the desert in mid April!! Snow on the ground this morning and another chance of snow this evening! Crazy! My daughter may lock me out of the house until it's done. She is none too happy being taken to high school in the 87 F150. It has what I will happily call "patina"!
I have a universal fuel line tool that can release 2 different sized lines. One end is for the fuel filter and I had to use the larger end for the lines at the tank. Mine is metal. The trick is to push the line on to the fitting while pushing the tool into the line. It almost takes 3 hands, but gets easier with a little practice. I left the rear of my tank hanging since it is supported. I found that I had plenty of room to slide the pump assembly out of the top of the tank without raising the truck. Good luck.
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