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My P/S bracket looks like a big wing hanging off the side of my engine. I don't really care what it looks like, but since I installed hydro boost brakes the steering hesitates in parking lots. To remedy that I'm changing to a Saginaw pump from a mid 80's Econoline van.
Besides supplying more pressure for steering, the bracket is much nicer and looks cleaner.
A word of warning, a lot of people use a "tee" in the return lines and end up with spotty power steering. The hydraboost system can't handle restrictions.
The proper way to install the return for the Saginaw pump is to have to separate return fittings on the can itself just like GM did.
You can get the rebuilt pumps with the proper can for about 50 bucks at a parts store. Look up a 1979 GMC 1ton.
I found a couple pumps. Is there a tutorial, and or pics in installing this thing?
These brackets look massive. I know I needed the high pressure lines with them so I got those.
That looks like a really nice bracket. If it is off a 300 it should work. The one I am familiar with is this, off an earlier Econoline van:
To that bracket I am going with a pump that has dual return lines for efficiency. The choices are a 76 LTD, an 84 Econoline, or a 79 GMC 1 ton.
If you pull up those cans on A. zone or elsewhere, you can see the difference by noticing the width of the reservoir can at the top where the filler hole is. (Note the photo above, of the 79 gmc 1 ton) Some are wider there than others, which tells me they were designed to move more fluid than the narrower ones. I believe the pump from the 84 Econo. will suit my needs. I've also read of members doing what they called the 'hillbilly mod,' and that was drilling/enlarging the pressure out orifice on the back of the can to get more psi out. That scares me though. I don't believe my steering box was designed to handle high psi. I've learned that in auto mechanics if you change one thing everything upstream of that mod must change too. Good luck.
Side Note:**Be sure to have those 3g alt's tested before installation. That's funny because when I did mine I took two as well from the j/y. Set both up with the twin v belt pulley and keep the spare behind the seat. 2. Remember to 'clock' the back of the 3g's so your wires come out the bottom and not the top. 3. You need a 175 amp mega fuse. If you're running an after market ignition like msd or Mallory or Summit, along with E. fan, connect the + of the ignition at the out side of the fuse, along with your radio +, and then connect the fan further up stream at the solenoid +. If not, when the fan(s) kick in both the ignition will stumble and the radio stops. The ignition is the big dawg and eats first. Gotta have music! Good luck.
Thanks man, I saw your write-up and will try to follow it. I'm doing this so I can run an E fan. I'll get the fatty fuse but then need to figure out if it's a pain to do with a thermostat to start the fan automatically, vs just a switch in the cab to turn it on/off.. hm. need to see that diagram probably for thermostat start/stop. something I need to buy? I just had both Alts tested, all good to go!
Here is another pump i got today. It has a diffrnt bracket to what I had because I figured it's "different" incase it's easier to do?
I should temp AbandonedBronco with some brew for these two mods help
I saw his write-up about the pump.. he smart guy.
I've been playing with efans for over 5 years and have learned a lot about the types and controls. With an inline engine you're limited to choices b/c of space. I now use a ford Contour/mystique dual fan. It is very thin and puts out 3500 cfm. Get a volvo controller from a early to mid volvo, along with a bmw or Audi/VW three prong thermo switch. The Volvo controller will automatically switch from low to high. Put the thermo switch in your water neck or use an inline housing in the radiator hose from thermostat to rad.
You can read those write ups. I also did a write up on this forum about the Contour fan. The volvo relay pack are easy to find in inexpensive, as is the thermo switch. All the parts #s are in the write ups. If you want to run the thermo switch in the rad. line, they are easy to find on ebay. A company called Holister road sells them. He also makes/sells the heating plate for the bottom of Offenhauser manifolds. Remember, ignition + is upstream of the fans +. The volvo relay pack really is the way to go. There is wiring diagram in the write ups.
The bracket that F-250 posted up is the one that I'm familiar with. Although that solid, 1 piece design looks like it'd work really nicely! I would think that it should bolt right up. I don't think they changed the bolt patterns on the side of the block throughout the years.
I'd be curious how much easier that bracket would make the install. The 5 different pieces of the older one worked fine, but it was kinda awkward at a few points of the install. The hardest part was connecting the lines.
Either way, it's an awesome swap. I still want one for my '81.
I've been known to be tempted from time to time by beer.
Awesome. Well, take a couple.. and an alt. and fan, and brew.lol (and got an extra 175a fuse for yaz)
I guess we can't test pumps until they are actually hooked up eh? What can i clean them up with? Outside I can do with whatever I'm sure, but should I pour something inside to clean them out?
Maybe just pour some ATF in there and give her turns and pour it back out.
Looks like time to upgrade to the serpentine belt too! Serpentine is quiet, and doesn't slip. Even when my 3000W invertor is in use, the Alternator never squeeks.
I did when I did my EFI install, and 3G alternator upgrade, and Saginaw P/S pump. I also grabbed the Radiator from the Van I grabbed it all off too! I found a pickup with the 3G 130 Amp Alt and I grabbed the wiring from it, so only had to fab an adapter wire from my original (non-ammeter gauge) to the new.
Yah? I have all new belts. But I never even thought of that. I was going to pull my 2-belt pully from my old alt and put it on the 130a alt.
Would love to find an aluminum rad!
Yah? I have all new belts. But I never even thought of that. I was going to pull my 2-belt pully from my old alt and put it on the 130a alt.
Would love to find an aluminum rad!
The Van didn't have Aluminum... it was the typical Brass, and had cracks and holes in it... which I'm still soldering and fixing But, it came from the dump so.. it has an awesome return policy
I seem to remember something about the water pump on a serpentine year turns in reverse to the earlier years. I have read threads of other members making the swap and then not understanding why they're having heating issues.
I agree with AB: I really like the aluminum bracket and might have to pull one for myself!
I thought about pulling one of the efi aluminum rads, but the sealing of the plastic tank scared me. Taking into account the cost and hassle and uncertainty of of a j/y rad., buying a new one seemed logical. You can get a new Spectre (Canadian made) for $80, $120 for a two row. I went with a two row aluminum, with aluminum side tanks, over size as though for a Camper Special, from Summit. With the camper on the back filled with outboard and camping gear, a boat atop that, through the Baja desert in the heat of the day, with just a slight rise in temp!
FWIW, Do Not use the probe through the tank type fan control with an aluminum rad.!
I seem to remember something about the water pump on a serpentine year turns in reverse to the earlier years. I have read threads of other members making the swap and then not understanding why they're having heating issues..
Also bring a spare while traveling with the serp system..if you loose a belt NOTHING works..
Too bad it's an ugly looking setup..(especially on the alt side) .on a nice simple 300 motor..but I suppose beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
I'm glad my 83 Van came with the Saginaw...brackets and all.
I seem to remember something about the water pump on a serpentine year turns in reverse to the earlier years. I have read threads of other members making the swap and then not understanding why they're having heating issues.
Oh yeah, you are quite right! The Water Pump does turn reverse rotation compared to the V-Belt style Pumps!
And has been Metric-ized, so the holes are all different sized and can't stuff the old style Fan on it either, gotta use the kind that needs that slim fan wrench to remove. Which isn't a problem if your planning a Ford Car Electric Rad Fan install!
And you'd need a newer harmonic balancer of course.
Originally Posted by JohnSmith3524
Too bad it's an ugly looking setup..(especially on the alt side) .on a nice simple 300 motor..but I suppose beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Personally, I really like the Serp setup much better than the V-Belts, so yeah... Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder
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I still want one for my '81.
But, it came from the dump so.. it has an awesome return policy 
