Engine thoughts and input needed.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Marietta, Georgia
Engine thoughts and input needed.
Hi all,
I've removed the valves from Luci and need some input. I'm trying to rationalize what I want to do vs what I need to do to keep the flathead in and running, well.
Basically, it comes down to cost. What are your recommendations as to what I should do to the engine vs what I need to do?
any recommendations on a machine shop with flathead experience in the greater Atlanta area? Any tricks to removing the valve seats?
thanks,
Yeti
I've removed the valves from Luci and need some input. I'm trying to rationalize what I want to do vs what I need to do to keep the flathead in and running, well.
Basically, it comes down to cost. What are your recommendations as to what I should do to the engine vs what I need to do?
any recommendations on a machine shop with flathead experience in the greater Atlanta area? Any tricks to removing the valve seats?
thanks,
Yeti
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
Hi all,
I've removed the valves from Luci and need some input. I'm trying to rationalize what I want to do vs what I need to do to keep the flathead in and running, well.
Basically, it comes down to cost. What are your recommendations as to what I should do to the engine vs what I need to do?
any recommendations on a machine shop with flathead experience in the greater Atlanta area? Any tricks to removing the valve seats?
thanks,
Yeti
I've removed the valves from Luci and need some input. I'm trying to rationalize what I want to do vs what I need to do to keep the flathead in and running, well.
Basically, it comes down to cost. What are your recommendations as to what I should do to the engine vs what I need to do?
any recommendations on a machine shop with flathead experience in the greater Atlanta area? Any tricks to removing the valve seats?
thanks,
Yeti
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Why do you want to remove the valve seats?? You had one that popped out as I recall?
I've never done it, but the way I've heard to remove them is to drill in one spot, then smack with a sharp chisel. They crack and pop out. But you need to be careful not to damage the seat for the ring. And drilling hardened material isn't for the faint of heart.
First thing I'd do is get that block clean, inside and out, as I said previously, pressure wash, vat in caustic and then acid. Check for cracks with dye penetrant or mag particle. Any shop should be able to do that.
Are you trying to get by with the least amount of expense and get a few years' running out of it?
I've never done it, but the way I've heard to remove them is to drill in one spot, then smack with a sharp chisel. They crack and pop out. But you need to be careful not to damage the seat for the ring. And drilling hardened material isn't for the faint of heart.
First thing I'd do is get that block clean, inside and out, as I said previously, pressure wash, vat in caustic and then acid. Check for cracks with dye penetrant or mag particle. Any shop should be able to do that.
Are you trying to get by with the least amount of expense and get a few years' running out of it?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Marietta, Georgia
I'm a bit concerned about breaking out the cranks, etc due to cost but I do see your point of not going blindly into minor repair when major repair may be needed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
It costs very little to pull the engine, put it on a stand, and disassemble it completely. As long as you keep everything labelled as to where it was, you can always just put it back. If you have it vatted you'll have to replace the cam bearings.
Not sure why you think all the valves, springs, and guides have to be replaced? Are they clearly that worn? A valve job usually means buying adjustable lifters ($175 - $200), having the lifter bores drilled ($50), and the cost of the valve/seat cutting is $100 - $125. New gasket set is $65.
Ream the ridges, do a hone and add a set of rings isn't too bad, maybe $75, if you keep the same pistons. It will run a lot better but won't last 50k miles before needing a bore job.
So you're into it for maybe $500 - $600, and have a halfway rebuilt engine. The alternative is to peen the loose seat back in, clean up the valves and put it back together, you're out the cost of gaskets.
Not sure why you think all the valves, springs, and guides have to be replaced? Are they clearly that worn? A valve job usually means buying adjustable lifters ($175 - $200), having the lifter bores drilled ($50), and the cost of the valve/seat cutting is $100 - $125. New gasket set is $65.
Ream the ridges, do a hone and add a set of rings isn't too bad, maybe $75, if you keep the same pistons. It will run a lot better but won't last 50k miles before needing a bore job.
So you're into it for maybe $500 - $600, and have a halfway rebuilt engine. The alternative is to peen the loose seat back in, clean up the valves and put it back together, you're out the cost of gaskets.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Marietta, Georgia
The Saga continues...
Went to look at the original flathead, last week. 6 cracks from jackets to valves. After being sold a complete lie of an engine, ("Ready to just drop in") that had more rust in one cylinder than my original engine had mud, and searching for a new heart for Luci, I came across a potential transplant donor. I'm going, today, to look at a flathead out of a 1951 F1. It's been rebuilt somewhat recently (miles not years). My concern is that it's been sitting for several years (oil in it, no coolant). What should I do before starting it?
While it's out, I'm considering a cam/springs/lifters and going to the double duce intake. (since I will have two strombergs, now)
springs; Lincoln?
cam; L100, ISKY 88, ISKY Max-1
lifters; Johnson hollow body
the lifters in it are solid non-adjustable. If I understand, correctly, the valves needed to be ground for those to work properly. Would you recommend replacing the valves with the rest? My concern with this is that the adjustable may be at the end of their adjustment just starting their life.
As always, any thoughts would be appreciated.
Went to look at the original flathead, last week. 6 cracks from jackets to valves. After being sold a complete lie of an engine, ("Ready to just drop in") that had more rust in one cylinder than my original engine had mud, and searching for a new heart for Luci, I came across a potential transplant donor. I'm going, today, to look at a flathead out of a 1951 F1. It's been rebuilt somewhat recently (miles not years). My concern is that it's been sitting for several years (oil in it, no coolant). What should I do before starting it?
While it's out, I'm considering a cam/springs/lifters and going to the double duce intake. (since I will have two strombergs, now)
springs; Lincoln?
cam; L100, ISKY 88, ISKY Max-1
lifters; Johnson hollow body
the lifters in it are solid non-adjustable. If I understand, correctly, the valves needed to be ground for those to work properly. Would you recommend replacing the valves with the rest? My concern with this is that the adjustable may be at the end of their adjustment just starting their life.
As always, any thoughts would be appreciated.
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