2 Dead Batteries
There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.
Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.
Let's get Jason's truck going.
John
There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.
Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.
Let's get Jason's truck going.
John

There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.
Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.
Let's get Jason's truck going.
John

A lower cold cranking amp batt may not be enough under some conditions
to be enough to get the motor started.
All these Batt. companies have a battery rating for every vehicles right!
A vehicle has a battery rating by engine cuin and current demands as needs for all as a new vehicle specs Right!
Not rated for 40 yr old vehicles with old wiring that may not be up to par.
And yeah lower compression V8's can get by with lower rated cold cranking amp battery. But add a sound system and maybe AC. Or very cold weather the low amp rated may fail ya at some point.
My prier post, I guess you missed the point of the "Battery Maker" not who has put their name on it..
orich
I do not know about vehicle battery rating. I find the best priced 525 CCA, that will fit the tray with the post in the right corner, and go home with it. The last time my 66 FE battery was replaced the clerk said hold on a minute, checked some numbers on the battery and holy cow that old battery is 9 years old.
Let's help get Jason going.

John
I then backed the truck back into my garage, shut it down and immediately checked the voltage and it was at 12.95V and pretty much hung there. Not sure what happened on the previous check where the voltage ran down ??:-|
Here's a video from when it went down to 10v ?!?!?
Here's a video from my testing (I took care of the dangly wires while I was out there and connected everything up right). Everything seems to be running fine. This is a well hidden gremlin

Last edited by Jason Neuman; Apr 6, 2014 at 04:55 PM. Reason: adding battery video
You may need to drive for 3o+ minutes or so to balance the battery
voltage to your vehicle charging rate.
orich
To answer your question, in regards to the voltage regulator, it is the new style type.
I think your battery troubles are over as you've been dogged by exide for a few yrs now.
Exide was in trouble yrs ago for selling their old failed ones that still looked like new batteries..
I remember back in the mid 90's Exide 1000 cold cranking amp batt had some case cracking or leaking and stop selling them.
Oh well it's all about profit line making them as cheap as possible any way.
But their is a limit to being cheap or it comes back to kick ya in the azz Right!
orich
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Or you could slide a cable through a short piece of some old heater hose if the end lug is not too large to fit inside.
Don't know if you can really see what I did...
I, don't need it as much with these Block hugger 427 Sanderson headers but sure did when I had the long tube headers..
orich
I think the only possible explanation is that when the muffler shop welded they must have not disconnected the battery. I'll have to look into a wrap for the battery wire (Maybe a spark plug cable wrap or turbo wrap) in the meantime I have the wire routed WAY far away from anything hot. although where it bolts on to the starter is fairly close.
On a positive note I ordered a Dana 44 & 60 Nodular Iron diff covers today! I still need to replace the axle lube and this will be the optimal time to swap them on. I'm excited! Also just received my seat cover from LMC and I have a pair of emergency brake cables on order from inline tube (Inline tube The brake plumbing experts)
Now if only I can find the front brake line...
Thanks for all the help guys. I sure hope this is the last time a battery blows up on me.
I think the only possible explanation is that when the muffler shop welded they must have not disconnected the battery. I'll have to look into a wrap for the battery wire (Maybe a spark plug cable wrap or turbo wrap) in the meantime I have the wire routed WAY far away from anything hot. although where it bolts on to the starter is fairly close.
On a positive note I ordered a Dana 44 & 60 Nodular Iron diff covers today! I still need to replace the axle lube and this will be the optimal time to swap them on. I'm excited! Also just received my seat cover from LMC and I have a pair of emergency brake cables on order from inline tube (Inline tube The brake plumbing experts)
Now if only I can find the front brake line...
I take it your truck is a 4wd vehicle since you stated your ordered a 44&60 diff. covers. ? My point is you may have remove your tie rod to install your front cover, as some covers stick out real close to the cross over tie rod.
Aw so you lived down by the Santa Clara University and miss that
area, I remember hearing that hookers worked that area 4th st. when, I came to SJ back in the early 80's. What do you miss most??:


orich
Now in regards to Santa Clara, I never noticed any of the problems you mentioned, but I lived there from 2006-2009. The only thing I really miss from the area is the glorious sun!
Refer back to post #40 that shows 10.82 volts across the terminals which you report is the quiescent voltage after a thorough run. The voltage should be about 13.
You have six cells in the battery. 13/6= 2.17 volts per cell. If you have a bad cell (internal short) you will see 13-2.17 = 10.83 volts open circuit. So there is your answer: Temporary bad cell in a hot battery which heals upon cooling.
The way you verify is to reproduce the problem, pop a cable, and see if 10.82 persists. That removes the possibility of any outside load dragging down the battery voltage.
As a final thought I note that 10.82 volts on a good battery indicates a very heavy external load, approaching starting current. Something would blow out or at least get hot very quickly. You do not see that.
I hope this helps you find the problem.
Semper Fi









