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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

2 Dead Batteries

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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 05:35 AM
  #16  
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Orich, Please sit down and take a blow bro, you are spouting a barrel full of info that has nothing to do with Jason's truck. John Deere doesn't make batteries, Walmart, like NAPA, Sears, and all others have to recycle used batteries, they all do, guvment makes em. The greenies don't want an old one polluting the air.

There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.

Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.

Let's get Jason's truck going.



John
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Orich, Please sit down and take a blow bro, you are spouting a barrel full of info that has nothing to do with Jason's truck. John Deere doesn't make batteries, Walmart, like NAPA, Sears, and all others have to recycle used batteries, they all do, guvment makes em. The greenies don't want an old one polluting the air.

There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.

Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.

Let's get Jason's truck going.



John
orich was pointing out the apparently exide is having problems with batteries, whether they are branded Exide or branded for a retailer/manufacturer
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 10:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Orich, Please sit down and take a blow bro, you are spouting a barrel full of info that has nothing to do with Jason's truck. John Deere doesn't make batteries, Walmart, like NAPA, Sears, and all others have to recycle used batteries, they all do, guvment makes em. The greenies don't want an old one polluting the air.

There are 3 major battery manufacturers in the US, Purilator, Exide, & Johnson Controls. They will put Orich on some if you buy enough.

I have been running 525 cold crank batteries for 40 years so don't come here with they wont work.

Optima is a gell battery made by Johnson Controls I think, Interstate Batteries is a Johnson Controls made battery.

Let's get Jason's truck going.



John
John, I did not say a lower cold cranking amp rated battery wouldn't work!

A lower cold cranking amp batt may not be enough under some conditions
to be enough to get the motor started.

All these Batt. companies have a battery rating for every vehicles right!

A vehicle has a battery rating by engine cuin and current demands as needs for all as a new vehicle specs Right!

Not rated for 40 yr old vehicles with old wiring that may not be up to par.

And yeah lower compression V8's can get by with lower rated cold cranking amp battery. But add a sound system and maybe AC. Or very cold weather the low amp rated may fail ya at some point.

My prier post, I guess you missed the point of the "Battery Maker" not who has put their name on it..

orich
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #19  
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What I missed after the third post was trying to diagnose and help Jason with his thread issue.

I do not know about vehicle battery rating. I find the best priced 525 CCA, that will fit the tray with the post in the right corner, and go home with it. The last time my 66 FE battery was replaced the clerk said hold on a minute, checked some numbers on the battery and holy cow that old battery is 9 years old.

Let's help get Jason going.


John
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 04:48 PM
  #20  
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OK so I went out and tested things. With the negative wire disconnected and my multimeter inline I'm seeing no current draw (I even checked the fuse in my multimeter to be sure. With the wires connected to the battery I see around 12.8V (Engine not running) With the engine running I'm seeing (14v). What's interesting is after driving the truck around the block, shutting it off and immediately checking the voltage I witnessed the voltage dropping down to 10 from 14v. I disconnected the battery again and checked the voltage and It was handing around 12.9v

I then backed the truck back into my garage, shut it down and immediately checked the voltage and it was at 12.95V and pretty much hung there. Not sure what happened on the previous check where the voltage ran down ??:-|

Here's a video from when it went down to 10v ?!?!?


Here's a video from my testing (I took care of the dangly wires while I was out there and connected everything up right). Everything seems to be running fine. This is a well hidden gremlin

 

Last edited by Jason Neuman; Apr 6, 2014 at 04:55 PM. Reason: adding battery video
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #21  
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What type of regulator did you use when you replaced it, the old points or transistor one. ? You may need to have your charging system checked out at Auto Zone while it's still running and having issues..

You may need to drive for 3o+ minutes or so to balance the battery
voltage to your vehicle charging rate.
orich
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 10:27 PM
  #22  
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So I stopped in at Autozone and they hooked up their machine to it and everything passed with flying colors. I'm perplexed!

To answer your question, in regards to the voltage regulator, it is the new style type.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 11:11 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jason Neuman
So I stopped in at Autozone and they hooked up their machine to it and everything passed with flying colors. I'm perplexed!

To answer your question, in regards to the voltage regulator, it is the new style type.
Those transistor reg. will last for yrs if they don't get damage.

I think your battery troubles are over as you've been dogged by exide for a few yrs now.
Exide was in trouble yrs ago for selling their old failed ones that still looked like new batteries..
I remember back in the mid 90's Exide 1000 cold cranking amp batt had some case cracking or leaking and stop selling them.

Oh well it's all about profit line making them as cheap as possible any way.
But their is a limit to being cheap or it comes back to kick ya in the azz Right!
orich
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:08 PM
  #24  
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Unless I missed something did you check the cables insulation? Making sure either of them isn't temporarilly grounding out on metal some where or exhaust.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Unless I missed something did you check the cables insulation? Making sure either of them isn't temporarilly grounding out on metal some where or exhaust.
What, I did to protect my starter cable from was use an old heater hose then cut it in a spiral cut. Then, I woun d it around the cable. Works for me..

Or you could slide a cable through a short piece of some old heater hose if the end lug is not too large to fit inside.

Don't know if you can really see what I did...

I, don't need it as much with these Block hugger 427 Sanderson headers but sure did when I had the long tube headers..
orich

 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 01:26 AM
  #26  
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I took the truck for a spin yesterday and kept my volt meter hooked up for the duration. My voltage never exceeded 14.4v. The Optima battery was definitely not hot to the tough after the trip.

I think the only possible explanation is that when the muffler shop welded they must have not disconnected the battery. I'll have to look into a wrap for the battery wire (Maybe a spark plug cable wrap or turbo wrap) in the meantime I have the wire routed WAY far away from anything hot. although where it bolts on to the starter is fairly close.

On a positive note I ordered a Dana 44 & 60 Nodular Iron diff covers today! I still need to replace the axle lube and this will be the optimal time to swap them on. I'm excited! Also just received my seat cover from LMC and I have a pair of emergency brake cables on order from inline tube (Inline tube The brake plumbing experts)

Now if only I can find the front brake line...
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 01:30 AM
  #27  
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Orich, I see you live in San Jose! I used to live in Santa Clara just across from Santa Clara University. I miss that area, but I definitely don't miss the crowds and taxes! I'm sure I probably admired your truck at some point while I was there.

Thanks for all the help guys. I sure hope this is the last time a battery blows up on me.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 08:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jason Neuman
I took the truck for a spin yesterday and kept my volt meter hooked up for the duration. My voltage never exceeded 14.4v. The Optima battery was definitely not hot to the tough after the trip.

I think the only possible explanation is that when the muffler shop welded they must have not disconnected the battery. I'll have to look into a wrap for the battery wire (Maybe a spark plug cable wrap or turbo wrap) in the meantime I have the wire routed WAY far away from anything hot. although where it bolts on to the starter is fairly close.

On a positive note I ordered a Dana 44 & 60 Nodular Iron diff covers today! I still need to replace the axle lube and this will be the optimal time to swap them on. I'm excited! Also just received my seat cover from LMC and I have a pair of emergency brake cables on order from inline tube (Inline tube The brake plumbing experts)

Now if only I can find the front brake line...
Those brake lines are fairly easy to make yourself. Even with the cheap tube double flaring kit. Auto zone sells the coated lines in many lengths as well and line nuts. Youtube has many posted videos how to do it with some good tips.

I take it your truck is a 4wd vehicle since you stated your ordered a 44&60 diff. covers. ? My point is you may have remove your tie rod to install your front cover, as some covers stick out real close to the cross over tie rod.


Aw so you lived down by the Santa Clara University and miss that
area, I remember hearing that hookers worked that area 4th st. when, I came to SJ back in the early 80's. What do you miss most??:

orich
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 01:04 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the pointers on the front diff clearence. I did a quick check and I should be good. They are painted and ready to go on (Picture below). In regards to the brake lines, the lines I was referring to are the emergency brake cables. I have stainless steel lines coming from inline tube. Hopefully they will be here within the next week or so. With the current cables that are on the truck I cannot trust that they will hold the truck.


Now in regards to Santa Clara, I never noticed any of the problems you mentioned, but I lived there from 2006-2009. The only thing I really miss from the area is the glorious sun!


 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #30  
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Jason, I have been thinking about your symptoms for a week. This is my thought:
Refer back to post #40 that shows 10.82 volts across the terminals which you report is the quiescent voltage after a thorough run. The voltage should be about 13.
You have six cells in the battery. 13/6= 2.17 volts per cell. If you have a bad cell (internal short) you will see 13-2.17 = 10.83 volts open circuit. So there is your answer: Temporary bad cell in a hot battery which heals upon cooling.
The way you verify is to reproduce the problem, pop a cable, and see if 10.82 persists. That removes the possibility of any outside load dragging down the battery voltage.
As a final thought I note that 10.82 volts on a good battery indicates a very heavy external load, approaching starting current. Something would blow out or at least get hot very quickly. You do not see that.
I hope this helps you find the problem.

Semper Fi
 
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