Changing Rotors. Need help..
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 185
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Changing Rotors. Need help..
Alright, heres the deal. My Rotors are gauged in my 89 Eb, 351W.
I took the tire off removed the calipers and the pads and going to attemot to remove the Rotors. No Luck. Seems to me that they are not "Floating" and are being held on by the Automatic Locking 4x4 Wheel hubs.
I took the truck toi a local mechaninc and he sai dthat the hub covers have to comeo ff and there is a buch on "metal and plastic fitings inside that have to be removed. he said that if no one has ever done this befre they should not attempt. Now a brake job in the fron is gonna run anywhere from $200-300 bucks.
Has anyone ever changed the rotors on this type of set up. IS it relatively easy to do?
Please, the squeeling is killing me!!!
I took the tire off removed the calipers and the pads and going to attemot to remove the Rotors. No Luck. Seems to me that they are not "Floating" and are being held on by the Automatic Locking 4x4 Wheel hubs.
I took the truck toi a local mechaninc and he sai dthat the hub covers have to comeo ff and there is a buch on "metal and plastic fitings inside that have to be removed. he said that if no one has ever done this befre they should not attempt. Now a brake job in the fron is gonna run anywhere from $200-300 bucks.
Has anyone ever changed the rotors on this type of set up. IS it relatively easy to do?
Please, the squeeling is killing me!!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
Changing Rotors. Need help..
It's easy to do. Just take care to remember where everything goes when you do this; it may help to do only one side at a time. In fact, if this if your first time, just do one side at a time so you have something to refer to in the event of a memory failure
You'll need a 4WD hub socket; they're pretty cheap at any auto parts store. Once you've got that, remove the screws that hold the hub on. Behind that, there is a large retaining spring, a lock for this spring, and some other odds and ends (memory not working right now. See why you only do one side at a time?
). Even if this is your first time, if you carefully examine everything before you take it apart, you'll see how it works.
You'll need a 4WD hub socket; they're pretty cheap at any auto parts store. Once you've got that, remove the screws that hold the hub on. Behind that, there is a large retaining spring, a lock for this spring, and some other odds and ends (memory not working right now. See why you only do one side at a time?
). Even if this is your first time, if you carefully examine everything before you take it apart, you'll see how it works.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Changing Rotors. Need help..
I dont have the auto hubs...but I do have manual ones...I just had mine off to replace seals and repack bearings. It was not very difficult. You will need the grease seals and some bearing grease to put it all back together along with a spanner wrench to fit the nut you have to remove. I got everything from advance auto parts (but they had to order the seals) so get it ahead of time. The one I had had 5 or 6 allen type screws that you loosen and remove. Inside the hub under the cover for the manual locker was a c-clip that is removed then a spiral type retaining ring. Then I could pull the innerds of the lockers out. Then the nut that the spanner wrench was needed for is under that. Remove and pretty much the hub comes off. You do also need a torque wrench to put the nut back on. I am sure someone else will have input as well. I used my Chilton manual and it was pretty easy and save me a few hundred. If you dont have a manual get one...it will still be much cheaper than having someone else do it.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Changing Rotors. Need help..
A '96 with manual locks is easier than an '89 with autos for a few reasons, but this link should show enough to make it easy. I still recommend buying a Haynes manual (~$12 at most parts stores) or a service CD (~$10 off eBay). A '92/93 CD will show most of an '89 truck's parts & systems, so it's worth having.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Changing Rotors. Need help..
Tnax guys. You've given me a lil more confidence to do it. The mechanic made it sound like as soon as i reomve the Hub Covers all these little *** plastic peices are gonna come flyin out at me and if i loose just one, the tire will fly off the axle.
I have a Haynes Manual at home. After work im gonna read over it. I also checked out that link Steve sent. Awsome!!!!!.
My Father said he should know how to do it. He was a gear head in the 60's. Hell give me a hand maybe this weekend.
IF Anyone else has doene this to a similar truck or with Auto Hubs, id like to know how it went.
I have a Haynes Manual at home. After work im gonna read over it. I also checked out that link Steve sent. Awsome!!!!!.
My Father said he should know how to do it. He was a gear head in the 60's. Hell give me a hand maybe this weekend.
IF Anyone else has doene this to a similar truck or with Auto Hubs, id like to know how it went.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 122
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From: Mountain State
Changing Rotors. Need help..
Hi, something extremely important to remember when doing your hubs. CLEANLINESS. Everything gets a good cleaning before teardown. Once you get the hub parts off there will be grease. And grease loves sand and dirt.
I use the pop can flats (case holders) to put all the parts on as the come off. Also, a new one as the parts come out of the parts cleaner and wash. That way everything is always nice and protected and doesn't wander away.
Besure to repack your bearings, and if they are worn install new ones.
Once you have the spindle clean, look at where the driveshaft goes to it. If there is any sign of leaks, you need to teardown further and replace the seals and possibly the bearing.
Clean clean clean
Bruce (Big Red Bronco)
I use the pop can flats (case holders) to put all the parts on as the come off. Also, a new one as the parts come out of the parts cleaner and wash. That way everything is always nice and protected and doesn't wander away.
Besure to repack your bearings, and if they are worn install new ones.
Once you have the spindle clean, look at where the driveshaft goes to it. If there is any sign of leaks, you need to teardown further and replace the seals and possibly the bearing.
Clean clean clean
Bruce (Big Red Bronco)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
Changing Rotors. Need help..
The hardest part, in my opinion, is holding the big spring in while trying to put the big snap ring back in place. It's really not a hard job; there are just a few extra pieces.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
Changing Rotors. Need help..
If the hub lock is left assembled, there should be no spring pressure anywhere.
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Changing Rotors. Need help..
Hello,I have a quick question here the original poster mentioned changing rotors yes?The rotors and hubs are 2 pieces held together by the wheel stud bolts??The reason I'm in this reply is I want to get a set of cross drilled rotors to cut down on heat,and all that bouncing and vibration as I slow the vehicle.I saw a set on Bronco Grave Yard.They had the hub/rotor combo and each piece separate.Question is how do you separate them,also i have a 96 with abs sensor in backside of the hub.Just give me a clue as to how you get this rotor hub apart.
Thanks,Billy.
Thanks,Billy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
Likes: 2
From: Montana Territory
Changing Rotors. Need help..
There are hub tools that will seperate those.
I find that if you are replacing the rotors its way easier to do everything at once, replacing the seals and bearings and possibly the races too. You can tell if the races need to be replaced if they don't have a mirror shine to them. Also if you drop a bearing (on the ground), you can not use it. They have very tight tolerances.
Another thing is that withold rotors, don't be afraid to tap them with a 3 lb sledge. They will become very cooperative.
I find that if you are replacing the rotors its way easier to do everything at once, replacing the seals and bearings and possibly the races too. You can tell if the races need to be replaced if they don't have a mirror shine to them. Also if you drop a bearing (on the ground), you can not use it. They have very tight tolerances.
Another thing is that withold rotors, don't be afraid to tap them with a 3 lb sledge. They will become very cooperative.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Changing Rotors. Need help..
Cross-drilled &/or slotted rotors only INCREASE the brake fade caused by heat because they have LESS steel to carry it away. That's not why rotors were ever drilled, anyway - it was to reduce unsprung weight, and that's not significant on a truck suspension. Don't waste your money on drilled/slotted rotors - they won't fix your problem.
For more info on brake technology, read the FAQ at the Wilwood site. They also have a brake troubleshooter that may help you.
Your rotors are warped, either from heat (usually because the REAR brakes have failed, putting all the load on the fronts), the lugs were overtightened (Ford put out a TSB referencing this ~10 years ago), or a previous set of pads were allowed to wear down too far.
To separate the hub & rotor, drive the lug studs out with a hammer and pull them apart. If your '96 is a Bronco, you'll have to remove the tone ring first.
For more info on brake technology, read the FAQ at the Wilwood site. They also have a brake troubleshooter that may help you.
Your rotors are warped, either from heat (usually because the REAR brakes have failed, putting all the load on the fronts), the lugs were overtightened (Ford put out a TSB referencing this ~10 years ago), or a previous set of pads were allowed to wear down too far.
To separate the hub & rotor, drive the lug studs out with a hammer and pull them apart. If your '96 is a Bronco, you'll have to remove the tone ring first.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
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From: Montana Territory
Changing Rotors. Need help..
Is there any way that you could make a dealership pay for new rotors if they overtightened the lugs?
We have a 2002 Jeep that has just 16,000 miles on it and the left front rotor is so severly warped I won't let my mom drive it. I don't believe they are worn out like the dealer says but I didn't know about this overtightening thing. These aren't cheap rotors either. TIA
We have a 2002 Jeep that has just 16,000 miles on it and the left front rotor is so severly warped I won't let my mom drive it. I don't believe they are worn out like the dealer says but I didn't know about this overtightening thing. These aren't cheap rotors either. TIA
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Changing Rotors. Need help..
Yes, especially a dealership. They're required by Ford to know & obey the TSB's, so if they screw it up, they're DEFINITELY responsible.
But it's only an issue on Ford trucks '80-96. A Jeep is a totally different vehicle, and they may not have this problem.
But it's only an issue on Ford trucks '80-96. A Jeep is a totally different vehicle, and they may not have this problem.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 34
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From: Austin, Texas
Changing Rotors. Need help..
So, while were on the subject, my brakes squealing would be a result of what? I read thru that WW page, but found no true answer, and FYI in assiting me here, they only do it sometimes, and not very loud, just loud enough for me to hear over the engine.