Im putting a straight up timing set in my 460.
Removing timing chain cover for the first time , I have all the bolts out and crankshaft pulley off ,I can pry away the top of the cover but it feels like its binding on something. Any hints , I don't see anything that should be hold it on except the gasket material. Can it be that stubborn ?

 

Check and see if there is any more bolts you missed. I've done that before missing a hidden bolt.

 

You do realize there are 2 bolts from oil pan up into cover dont you.

 

Got it now, I did miss the bolts underneath.
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Isn't this timing set to 0* already?

 

i dont know what your timing is set to. I dont know from first hand experience that ford retarded timing on 385 series motors. I do know they did on 335 engines. The timing marks are aligned but that cam gear looks awfully worn.

 

Sorry I haven't done the 460 but I did a couple Honda and toyotas engines in school. I went to Dunwoody.

 

Do I pull the keyway out before removing the gear?

 

Yes you do if I remember right.

 

But then again I could be mistaken

 

You dont have to remove key but it may come out anyhow when you pull gear off

 

For 1972 and later 460, Ford retarded cam timing. IIRC, a 1968 1/2 - 1971 460 has its crankshaft keyway inline with the crankshaft sprocket's tooth. The retarded 1972 & later the keyway falls between teeth, like your pic.

I've still got one of my 1970 nylon-overmolded camshaft sprockets around here somewhere, but I think I threw the crank sprocket away long ago.

1971 was the last year of the early high-compression 460's. After that, they weren't much fun. The long slide of low compression ratios, retarded timing, all sorts of emissions restrictions. I think the 460 went all the way down to 8:1 for some years, from its high of 10.5:1 for 1968 1/2 - 1971.

Ditto on gators key comment. And sometimes its a pain to keep the key IN the correct place when sliding the timing set back on. At least on the generation that I worked on.

 

Non retarded 460/429 timing set, has timing mark on crank gear directly above the crank keyway. Yours is stock retarded gear.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Got the old set off and waiting on the new parts .

 

First time doing this and I am having a tough time believing that I can get the timing chain cover on and aligned without having it leak , plus I got I think have the wrong crankshaft seal ,my old one didn't have the flange .[IMG][/IMG]

 

The early 460's had the crankshaft oil seal inserted from the backside (inside) of the timing cover. IIRC, those did not have a flange because they set into a pocket that limited how far in they could be set. I really don't remember what I used... I may have used a flanged-type of seal pressed into the front of the cover. All that matters is that the seal ride on a non-rusted area of the harmonic balancer, so the seal doesn't get torn up.

Putting it all back together isn't too hard, with some prep work. I always make some alignment studs for timing cover work. Threaded rod, or bolts with heads cut off. The nicest are bolts that are NOT threaded all the way to the head, so when the head is cut off, it leaves a nice smooth no-thread area to get a grip on to screw them in/out.

I use a Permatex product in a small spray can - "99GA High Tack Spray-a-gasket sealant". I first mask off the chain so sealant doesn't get on it, then when all ready:
Following can directions, spray a thin even coat on the block rim where the gasket will go. It is red and you can see through it.
Then spray (THE CORRECT SIDE!!!) of the timing gasket that will face the block. I have it laying back-side up on newspaper to do that.
Screw in the alignment studs.
After the wait, carefully slide the gasket onto the studs and squarely onto the block, press all around.
With oil pan gasket "ears" mounted, and siliconed at the breaks, next slide the timing cover on. There may be resistance at the bottom, to get the rubber seal on the bottom of the timing cover to slide over the oil pan edge.
When the cover is flat against the block, then press DOWN on the timing cover, towards the oil pan, to compress the "ears".
While holding it down, HARD!!, add bolts and remove studs. Just by fingers, do not tighten bolts yet.
While continuing to press down hard on timing cover, insert the two bolts that go up through the oil pan rim into the bottom of the timing cover.
Tighten those two bolts snug with wrench, but don't murder them, while holding.
Continuing to hold, now alternately tighten cover to block bolts.
Then you can let go.
Then get the water pump plate/gasket(s) gooped with sealant of your choice, and get the pump on, tighten bolts that go through pump into timing cover.

The whole bit about pressing down hard on the timing cover, is so the harmonic balancer snout, when it is inserted, rides in the middle of the timing cover seal, that the seal and cover is centered, not biased upwards, which would rapidly wear out the bottom of the seal. Remember to oil the seal lips before assembly too.