Hi again.

So, I'm having the tie rods replaced sometime soon (I was told by a reliable source) that they needed to be replaced partially because there was "a lot of loose stuff up front", and I have no worries about having it done.

My question is this: There's a lot of play in the steering wheel. Will having the tie rods replaced help tighten that up? Or do I need to be looking at the steering box also? (I have a 73 F250 Camper Special).

Thanks in advance!

 

Tie rods can contribute to a loose-feeling steering system.

Why not crawl under there and see/feel for yourself? You know, do some hands-on trouleshooting to educate yourself. As the addage goes, "Trust but verify"... it makes you a better consumer.

 

I've gotten under there, and, being an OLD truck, and in the PNW where we're pretty much wet year round, there are a lot of loose/rusted parts. My friend of over 30 years is a mechanic, and he's the one who told me to go with the tie rods first. I know a bit about trucks (I've had them most my life) and have the Haynes guide for my truck, but I have more experience working on VW and Toyota cars (which were my get around cars growing up, and my dad taught me how to work on and restore). He (my friend) said for sure the tie rods needed to be replaced. It's safe to drive for now, and drives well, but you can tell from the feel that it is definitely loose in the front end. I have a feeling we're going to have to do something about he steering box also, but my friend believes that new tie rods will definitely help the problem. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with this.

My kids love to take rides in "the Beast," but when they see the play in the steering wheel, they always say something like "Mom, just drive straight," or "Mom, why are you moving the steering wheel so much?"

 

Thanks for the background.

The issue with steering components is that it consists of multiple components. Relatively small wear in each component can act cumulatively and by the end of the line, there is lots of play.

I generally recommend that if one part is worn enough to be replaced, then it is likely that the rest of the components are of the same age. Steering should be replaced as a system rather than piece by piece. I can understand doing it piecemeal if it is a budget issue but would rather not otherwise.

 

Thanks for the input. I had a feeling (which my friend also suggested) that we were going to have to deal with the steering components eventually. I bought this truck for a few reasons, 1) I've always had trucks until I was a single mom and couldn't put car seats on the bench, 2) It was the same make/model/year that my dad had when I was growing up, and learned to drive in, 3) one of my best friends (the previous owner) found out he had inoperable brain cancer and was selling off everything he owned, and wanted ME to have the Beast, and 4) I wanted a "project" and to refresh myself on car/truck maintenance.... plus I feel like I'd rather have an older model that was made when they were built to last a lifetime instead of leased for a few years, then go in and upgrade to a newer model.

I'm sure I'll be on this site a lot more as I fine tune the minor things. Just fixed the windshield wiper switch issue with a part from LMC Truck, which needed to be modified because it had an aspect that made it incompatible with the wiring/hook up. So now I have windshield wipers!

I'm not trying to "restore" it. (although I'd love to). I'm just trying to go step by step fixing functional problems. Solved the problem with the console lights. Windshield wipers. Now on to bigger issues that I'm not qualified to do. There are other minor things, like, ugh, gas caps for the dual tanks. The ones on there now don't engage, so basically they're just sitting on there. I've called dealers, visited junk yards, auto parts stores. No luck. Nothing fits. The main tank has a locking cap and the auxiliary tank just has a regular cap, but neither actually connects. (Any advice on where I might find those parts would be appreciated). Everyone kept directing me to dealers because the ones they said were correct didn't fit (too small). The dealers I called said their database didn't go back that far, and when they checked Moto whatever, it said "73 F250 parts- obsolete." Ugh.)

Piece by piece. We currently have three vehicles: a 2000 Toyota Sienna my husband bought for me after we married so I could cart soccer players around, MY 86 Toyota Camry (which he drives), and the F250. My step son is turning 16 soon, and the plan was to give him the Camry, my husband would drive the Sienna (since we're done carting kids around), and I'd have my truck. Just want to keep the truck safe on the road. I'm often making 60 mile round trip drives for doctors, family, school, etc. I'm pretty confident because breaks and fluids are new. New radiator. Actually has a 78 460 in it in amazing condition. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything, so any advice is welcomed.

 

There are two possibilities when the steering box is suspect. First check the coupler (AKA rag joint), rock the steering wheel back and forth. There shouldn't be any play between the column and input shaft of the steering box. This is a common wear item. The rubber disc in the coupling deteriorates and breaks apart allowing a lot of play in the steering (don't worry if it fails, there's a fail safe part of the design that won't allow the steering to fail.
Rock the steering wheel back and forth again and watch the pitman arm that comes out of the steering box. There shouldn't be any lag between the input of the steering wheel and the movement of the pitman arm.
If there is play in the steering, don't bother trying to adjust the sector shaft preload screw, that's the screw that's in the center of the steering box cover, it doesn't have any effect on the play.
If you do replace the steering box, two words, Red Head! They're located in Seattle and are the absolute top of the line when it comes to rebuilding these steering boxes. Their prices are competitive with the chain store rebuilts and they actually rebuild the boxes not just reseal them. They also correct some of the glaring design errors that these boxes are known for.
You can either ship them your box and have them rebuild it, or you can have them ship you one from stock and return yours as a core.
Red-Head Steering Gears - Custom Rebuilt Steering Gear Boxes in USA

 

On the caps for the fuel tanks, you need to know whether your truck has "evaporative emission controls". Don't panic, it's easy to tell. Look in the engine compartment on the passenger side frame rail, up by the radiator. If your truck is equipped with the system there will be a round charcoal canister that has two lines. One line is 5/16" and goes back to the fuel tanks. The second is a flexible tube that's 3/4" in diameter and goes up to the side of the air filter housing.
The difference in the caps is the ones for non-evap trucks is vented, the evap eqipped trucks are not vented. In this system the tank vents through the charcoal canister instead of the cap.
Here's what the charcoal canister looks like.

 

Great input Mike. Thanks. My friend (mechanic) said that if it was an issue with the steering box, that was something he'd come over and do for parts, no labor (just beer--standard around here). We used to rebuild/restore cars/trucks together in high school into the wee hours of the night, usually pissing off both of our parents. I'll come back and refer to this post so he can see what everyone has commented, although I'm sure he already knows all this.

Thanks so much for the input!

 

So, from looking at the picture, it looks like the caps are on separate sides of the frame. Is that right? Both mine are on the driver's side. Obviously I don't have a bare frame to reference. Where should I be looking under the hood (it's fairly clean and most everything's visible...... although for some reason it doesn't have the wiper fluid reservoir).

 

You're looking for the little blue canister. I will be on the passenger side just behind the radiator and below the battery.
You're correct, it's on the opposite side of the truck. The fuel fillers are on the driver's side.
The picture I posted is from my project but this is what they usually look like .

BTW, both pictures are the same frame and canister, before and after.

 

You can look up your gas cap on Autozone or o'reilly's website. I looked up '73 f250 on autozone and they have both

 

Jklnhyd, I've gone to Autozone, O'Reilly's, Napa, and a few junk yards, and no one's "matches" fit. Thankfully, they let me return them. Ever since I bought the truck, I've been a regular at O'Reilly's so they already have info ready for me when I call

 

I was referred to LMC Truck.com by my mechanic friend and ordered the guide that has parts for 73-78 Ford F250's (and other models). I was able to get the windshield wiper switch I needed (even though it wasn't the right part, but my husband "modified" it" to make it fit and work) through them. Most sources I've found when searching parts for a 73 say "obsolete." Dead end.

 

Hmmmm, maybe take a picture of the filler "holes". Someone may have swapped em out at some point or something goofy like that. Im sure people here could tell you.

Are you sure your truck is a '73 f250? It may be something else, idk

 

I here all these Guys saying they got to replace their steering box because they are sloppy or for what ever reason .Are you BS's me I have never in 40 yrs replaced a steering box on a Ford truck I have owned 11 Ford trucks in 40 yrs have 2 - 78 F250 4x4s a 95 F250 4x4 a 2003 Super Duty have never ever had a steering box problem .I worked over 20 yrs at a Ford Dealership and have never replaced a steering box,