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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 02:02 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7
No testing the specific performance except on a mfger test set for response timing....
I took the IAC off again today, and did some experiments.

When I tested the resistance, I got 10.3 ohms in both directions..

So I put it in the vice and "bumped" it with a battery, after spraying it with some "B-12 chemtool". I was hoping that moving it while cleaning it would help.. hoping there was just "a crumb" stuck in there.

On the first bump, it looked like it stuck in the "wide open" position, but I'm not sure because it was full of B-12... so it was hard to see..

Subsequent bumps only made the valve twitch. It didn't seem to open much at all.

I thought I might've burned out the solenoid, but the resistance test still showed 10.3 ohms after that, so I put it back in and took a ride to the store.

I was gonna "roll the dice" and just buy a new IAC, but they didn't have one in stock today... I think it'll be worth the gamble... I hope so.. I'm gonna try it tomorrow.

I tried to find a vid of what the "bump test" would look like, but couldn't find anything.
When I bumped mine, it looked like it stuck open at first. ... but then it just twitched after that. almost like the shaft is getting hung up..?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2014 | 03:31 PM
  #32  
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I replaced the IAC yesterday. Not sure if it did the trick yet.

I took a short ride and she seemed to run good, idled nicely at stop signs, but still a little unsteady when I got back.

I only went a couple miles, so I'm hoping that the computer is still "re-learning"..

When I first cleaned the old IAC, it was very dirty. I thought it cleaned up pretty good but, compared to the new one, it was still quite dirty.

 
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 03:09 AM
  #33  
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oh well, the new IAC valve didn't fix it.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 04:17 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7
Jim, you understood more than you give yourself credit for.
Hook up the Scanner and find out how to get to look at the Ox sensors both in voltage and short term fuel trims (STFT) for both sides.
Then do the spray and see if you get a reaction to it at some location.
Good luck.
I borrowed a better scanner, now I have to figure out how to use it.. but, can you give me any more details about that test Bluegrass? What exactly am I looking for? Vacuum leak? Bad 02 sensor?

Thanks again,

Jim
 
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:07 PM
  #35  
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Many makes of Scanners present the data differently depending on who wrote the software, what limits may have been put on the data, and how the firmware shows it on screen.
You need the user book to find out how to navigate the program.
Since the same Scanner can be used on many makes, the program and data can be presented differently as per the vehicle system you access.
You need to get to Ford's short term trims, long term trims, Ox sensor voltage monitors and percentages etc to see what they are.
It's usually a matter of pushing the right button to bring up a screen, then scrolling to the line that takes you in the direction you want to go for the data.
Sometimes the buttons are a double duty where you may have to hold it down to trigger a second sub layer data source direction, then keep going until you get to the page with the data you want to see.
When you first connect, the Scanner finds the specific protocol that PCM is programmed with. All the makes are not the same standard.
I can't help much more from here.
Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 12:08 AM
  #36  
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Thanks again Bluegrass, I'll be checking it in about half an hour.

I have to return the scanner tomorrow, so I'll have to do this tonight..

I wasn't sure what info to look for, but I took notes and I'll look up the stft, ltft, 02 sensor voltage, and percentages.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #37  
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............















 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 04:47 AM
  #38  
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I also got KEOR codes,
P1131 (H02511 sensor lean)
P1151 (H02521 sensor = lean)
P1137 (H02512 sensor = lean)
P1157 (H02522 sensor = lean)
P0460 (fuel level sensor circuit fault)
 
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 10:16 AM
  #39  
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You got use of one of the best Scanners there is besides the factory dealer instrument.
.
Codes 1131 is bank 1 'forward' sensor has shifted the SFTrim table Rich.
1151 for bank 2 has done the same for that bank's table.
.
Codes 1137 and 1157 are the 'rear' OX sensors and show all data related to there operation. Nothing is showing any issue but you would have to know 'what' is an issue if it were to show so it's included in the readout under the OX sensor quarry requested, so all can be seen and not missed.
None of these sensors are the cause of the Lean condition but only report it because the system has no other way to report the intake Lean fault.
.
If you look at the two data display photos that show the the SFTIMs with a reading of 38, those back up the codes 1131/1151 and is how the system detects and sets the codes for this type of fault.
.
Get the air leak found and corrected and the OX sensors then will detect normal ox levels and return the tables to normal where they always run and cancel the codes for both the fronts and the rears since no other issues show up..
A note, the Scanner is showing conditions for both front and rear Ox sensors so may be confusing to a new user as 'to much' data.
.
Surprise is the 460 code for the fuel level circuit. A separate issue.
It may be the pump level sensor, the connector, the harness or the dash readout. But that's minor until you get the other codes cleared as this does not affect the motor unless you run out of gas from not knowing the fuel level..
.
There you have, nothing out of the ordinary that others don't experience with the same issue.
From here on you don't need that good a Scanner to see the codes and read the data. Lessor Scanner might not report the 1137/1157 codes that would be the only difference. So as noted you would not really miss anything as far as the trouble that is present.

As they say for lawyers, $1 for the part and $100 for the advice.
Take care.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 03:01 PM
  #40  
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Many thanks Bluegrass, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain all this stuff to me.

I'm (obviously) not a mechanic, but it's been a very long time since anyone else has worked on any of the vehicles that I've owned (aside from mounting tires).. but this one has me stumped.. my friend recommended a good "mobile mechanic", so I might have to let him take a look at it.

I've already checked all the hoses that I can get at without taking the upper intake off, so it looks like this job is about to get bigger than I had hoped. If I go that far, I intend to replace all the rubber underneath it and maybe even replace the head gasket as a matter of course... since everything will be opened up already, I'm guessing that it's only a few more hours of work. I guess I'll start a new thread, or try to look up how long these head gaskets are known to last. Mine is a 4.2, V-6, with 184,000 miles.

About that P0460 code... I did run out of gas about a month ago. I cleared the codes a few times since then, both by disconnecting the battery and with the other scanner. I dunno, maybe the computer remembered it somehow.. but the gas gage works fine..

So anyway, thanks again, I really appreciate it. If you're ever in Hawaii, make sure to look me up! I'd be happy to show you around..

Cheers,

Jim
 
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Zrock
their is a rubber elbow just in behind throttle body on the bottom side. Directly under the air idle control. Pull it off and check for leaks. Mine had a hole in it. Some days you could hear the vacuum leak and others you could not. took me for ever to find it but was pulling same codes and symptoms you have. All fixed now
I gotta admit, I'm a little bit embarrassed!

It turns out, you were right Zrock! I completely missed that elbow when I first looked. It's hidden pretty good up there..

I changed it today, and she purrs like a kitten now.

I found the part at O'Reilley's for $11.50.

It's online for even less, but I didn't want to wait..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Help-46022-PCV-Valve-Elbow-/390808996326?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5afe0809e6
Here's the old one next to the new package... It's part # 46022



Thanks again to all you guys for helping me with this! I know it took me long enough, but at least it did turn out to be a cheap, simple, fix.

I'm gonna leave the CEL on for now, and see if it turns itself off soon. I only made one short trip so far..
 
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:12 PM
  #42  
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PS, for anyone else who's looking into this part, the back of the package says it's for 4.6 and 5.4 Liter engines... It doesn't mention the 4.2 (and it looked like the ID's were a little smaller), but it went right on with a little oil..
 
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:34 PM
  #43  
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Hey Jim,
The PCM never leads you astray with the codes.
Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 10:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7
Hey Jim,
The PCM never leads you astray with the codes.
Good luck.
haha, yep, you did say it was an air leak the whole time!

I learned a lot on this one... especially, "just because it's hard to reach or see, doesn't mean it ain't there!"

I'm just stoked that it turned out to be simple (and cheap). This part is very similar to the one in the back. As soon as I got my fingers on it, I knew it was the one!

Thanks again Bluegrass, I appreciate you taking the time to explain all that stuff to me. I learned a lot here.
 
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Old May 6, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #45  
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Okay explain where that elbow is again. I have been fighting this problem as well, and want to replace that thing. BTW excellent post, and information.
 
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