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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

cluster solder fixes

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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:32 AM
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cluster solder fixes

hi folks. i've been living for quite some time with no lights in the cluster - not such a big deal, but now that my coolant temp gauge also reads nothing, i suspect two successive cold solder joints in the cluster. luckily, with experience in this department, i consider those easy to fix. having not yet pulled the cluster, though - once i have it in hand, any tips on where i should look first?

(i am psyched to disable/destroy the door/seatbelt buzzer at the same time. oh boy, will that be nice!)
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:07 AM
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Oh I hate that buzzer... if you want you can just destroy the key part of it by taking the cover off the column and cutting the wire to contact on the key cylinder. Then it'll still work if you leave the lights on. Or just do what I do... rip it out from under the dash and smash it against the nearest hard surface

What year truck do you have? With a 92+ I'd check the dimmer rheostat first if you have no instrument lights. On the back of the cluster, most of the circuitry is printed onto a flexible film instead of an actual PCB, so there ain't any solder joints in the illumination circuits... at least not on the cluster itself.

There are a few boards in there for some of the instruments. For sure the PSOM/speedometer has one, and I think the tach has one too, but I don't remember there being boards for any of the other gauges.

EDIT: wait a sec, yes there are solder joints on some of the instruments... I remember at least one of the having a resistor soldered across 2 of the input pins.
Anyhow, let us know what you find.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
There is also an instruments lamp fuse in the cab fuse panel in your 1991 F-150.
It is fuse number 10, a 5amp fuse.

I do not know of any solder joints for the instruments lamps in the cluster.


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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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super helpful folks! i agree, the rheostat may be the place to look, so i am going to swap that out first. it seems like my fuse #10 is reliably blowing but i only had one spare so i haven't proven this conclusively. those pictures were great, subford, so thank you. dixie460, i like that approach - any tip on identifying that one wire at the steering column?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 07:00 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
The most common place to have a short to blow fuse #10 is the wiring to the radio.






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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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dixie460
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From: SW Florida
Originally Posted by bricktron
super helpful folks! i agree, the rheostat may be the place to look, so i am going to swap that out first. it seems like my fuse #10 is reliably blowing but i only had one spare so i haven't proven this conclusively. those pictures were great, subford, so thank you. dixie460, i like that approach - any tip on identifying that one wire at the steering column?
Well on a 92 or newer you just pull the screws out of the column cover from underneath, and once it's off you'll see the single wire for the chime on the key switch housing. Probably the same setup for a 91 too, but I can't say for sure since I don't own one of the bricknose (87-91) trucks.
 
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