When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've tried decoding the vin off the 78 ford i got recently but i was told its an f150... the tag is custom on the side and what my decoding tells me is f350 2wd 351m made in Ontario
The vin is f35hccg1168
What the P.O told me the truck was- f150 4x4 standard 400ci v8 that he claims to have put in.
do you have 8lug or 5lug wheels? that will tell you if you have an F250/350 (8) or an F100/150 (5). otherwise you may have a Frankentruck. the actual VIN (not the warranty number) is on the frame near the alternator or battery on the pass side
So I've tried decoding the vin off the 78 Ford I got recently, but I was told it's an F150.
The tag is Custom on the side and what my decoding tells me is F350 351M made in Ontario Canada.
VIN: F35HCCG1168 Where did you get this VIN from? Off the registration/title, or from the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch? *
What the P.O told me the truck was- F150 4x4 standard 400ci v8 that he claims to have put in. The VIN told me F350 351M.
F35 = F350 Pickup (16" 8 lug wheels on a 6.50" bolt circle).
H = 351M 2V
C = Oakville Ontario Canada Truck Assembly Plant.
CG1168 = 1978.
*VIN on Warranty Plate known as Warranty Number. FoMoCo says it is not for title or registration purposes as it's too EZ to change.
The usual reason: People replaced damaged left doors with used doors. 99.9% of the time, they failed to install the original Warranty Plates on the replaced doors.
F150 Regular Cab 4WD Pickup VIN begins with F14 / F100/150's have 15" 5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle.
So you've got F-150 running gear with a swapped over 1 ton cab. The F35 designates a 1 ton 2wd F-350. I suspect nothing but a headache for you down the road and that is a truck I would of never bought.
Find the chassis vin to see what drivetrain you have and use it for reference when ordering parts. It could be a big can of worms with the dmv if you want to open it.
So you've got F-150 running gear with a swapped over 1 ton cab. The F35 designates a 1 ton 2wd F-350. I suspect nothing but a headache for you down the road and that is a truck I would of never bought.
The somewhat alarmist statement may not be warranted. However, the Vin/cab vs running gear issue should have been known prior to purchase. At this point, hopefully neither VINs come back as stolen but sometimes ignorance can be a bliss. That means it may be assumed that the cab's VIN is valid. Many a'dentsiders have done cab swaps due to rust issues and hopefuuly they've documented what was done should they ever to sell the truck to 'the next guy'.
My 73 is a 2wd cab on what I believe to be a 74 4wd frame. It's all good but knowing what you're working with sure helps navigating the muddy waters of chassis, body, engine, and electrical combinations
Keep yer fingers crossed when it comes to register the rig. And do not mention anything about the cab swap unless they ask. There is no need to confess .
Every DMV is a little bit different in now they handle things. If you really wanted to make things right, you already have a legit title to the cab and by using a major component like the chassis with a different vin, you just apply for a build title, get the truck inspected and have a new custom vin to your truck. You would have to hope that both the cab vin you have and chassis vin have no issues legally.
The somewhat alarmist statement may not be warranted.
Not warranted?
Considering he was sold a 4wd F-150 and the VIN of F35 is for a 2wd F350 I don't see how you think concern wouldn't be warranted. Hell I can see the red flag waving at my house!
While it may not be nothing to you I would of never bought the truck and if I did I would be taking it right back to the guy that sold it to me and demanding my money back. I'd be most certain the guy that sold the truck knew exactly what he was doing.
IMO unless the OP can get the original F-150 rating plate for the door and the original F-150 title that matches the frame VIN I see nothing but headaches in his future.
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Many a'dentsiders have done cab swaps due to rust issues and hopefuuly they've documented what was done should they ever to sell the truck to 'the next guy'.
The right way to do it would be to pull the rating plate from the junk door and attach it to the replacement door. Just like that you have matching VIN numbers and not the issue that the OP is having.
EDIT:
galkrin, how long ago did you buy this truck? If it is recent I would be calling the seller asking him where the title and the old door is for the F-150. Also like buck said get the frame VIN number so you know what you really have.
The other thing you could do is to go to your local dmv and poke around a little bit. Tell them you are thinking about building a truck and you have the title for the body and using a 4x4 frame out of a junkyard with no title and see what it takes for a rebuilding title. Don't give any specifics to what you have going on to see what the process is. If it sounds easy than maybe go for it, if it sounds like a headache like here in MN than if you are concerned than maybe do what Scott said.
These situations can be sticky if something becomes something. Most likely someone did the body swap and thought they needed to use the cab VIN instead of the chassis.
Considering he was sold a 4wd F-150 and the VIN of F35 is for a 2wd F350 I don't see how you think concern wouldn't be warranted. Hell I can see the red flag waving at my house!
While it may not be nothing to you I would of never bought the truck and if I did I would be taking it right back to the guy that sold it to me and demanding my money back. I'd be most certain the guy that sold the truck knew exactly what he was doing.
IMO unless the OP can get the original F-150 rating plate for the door and the original F-150 title that matches the frame VIN I see nothing but headaches in his future.
The right way to do it would be to pull the rating plate from the junk door and attach it to the replacement door. Just like that you have matching VIN numbers and not the issue that the OP is having.
EDIT:
galkrin, how long ago did you buy this truck? If it is recent I would be calling the seller asking him where the title and the old door is for the F-150. Also like buck said get the frame VIN number so you know what you really have.
Again, it may not be warranted.
Every state is different. Usually the fat guy/lady behind the DOT/DMV counter has no clue and is only there to process the paperwork. Personally, I had no issues in registering or gaining the title to my 73/74 but I knew fully well what it was before I bought it.
Finding out now there is a configuration issue is usually too late. Buyer beware!
Every state is different. Usually the fat guy/lady behind the DOT/DMV counter has no clue and is only there to process the paperwork. Personally, I had no issues in registering or gaining the title to my 73/74 but I knew fully well what it was before I bought it.
Finding out now there is a configuration issue is usually too late. Buyer beware!
Every state might be different when registering but if or when he gets pulled over by a cop and they find the half ton VIN on the frame and it doesn't match the registration VIN someone is going to have some explaining to do. And lets for instance just say that the frame VIN comes back as stolen. Do you think the cop, at that moment, is going to go looking for the seller or is he going to bust the driver?
In this case it is not buyer beware. If the seller wouldn't work with me I would simply call the cops and explain the whole situation to them so they can sort it out. I would not wait until it was 3,4 or 5 years down the road for it to become an issue.
You see it one way and I see it another. I'm sure the OP is smart enough to figure out which direction he should take.