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Engine Sludge on older v8's

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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
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Engine Sludge on older v8's

I use RISLONE in my trucks every oil change, 73 & 74 with 70+ on them.

In passenger car and light truck engines, use one bottle for a 4 to 6 liter system. Example: If using when changing oil and you have a 5 liter crankcase capacity, use 4 liters of oil and 1 liter of Rislone Engine Treatment. For larger systems, stationaSize:1 L (32 fl. oz.).
Rislone Engine Treatment is high quality penetrating lubrication oil, combined with protective engine additives and special cleaning agents. Its multi-grade formula allows the oil to flow freely and provides protection over a broader temperature range.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 10:25 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
The old timers would replace one quart of oil out of five in the crankcase with kerosene and let it idle (don't drive it!) for a half hour and then drain everything. This would work if you just want to drive it for a while.
Was gonna say that! Before I pull an engine I am going to rebuild, I run kerosene through it, makes clean up SOO much easier.
However, in you case, you could use pretty much any spray cleaner to get that goo off before you put it back together. Brakeclean works good.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 12:57 PM
  #18  
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Ok pulled the intake and valve covers this morning and found this.......

 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Undertheoaks
Ok pulled the intake and valve covers this morning and found this.......
Eww... but was in the same boat with my 73. My 70 was as clean as a whistle.

Sludge is typically a result of frequent short trips where the engine and oil don't get up to operating temperature -coupled with a lack of oil and filter changes.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:07 PM
  #20  
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lol, I think you did good to take it down a little more, shes gunked up. I am surprised you dont have more around the valve springs.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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Im going to scrape most of it out carefully by hand but when it gets down to flushing it out from the top, will it run down thru to the oil pan which will be removed ?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #22  
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Oh that looks nasty!

To those who mentioned using kerosene in the engine oil- Wouldn't that degrade the seals in the engine?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 03:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Undertheoaks
Im going to scrape most of it out carefully by hand but when it gets down to flushing it out from the top, will it run down thru to the oil pan which will be removed ?
Yes, it will....but, along the way, some of that goo has to pass over the cam, lifters, rods and mains. No telling how much would get stuck or cling to them.

If you're bent on cleaning up that mess without pulling the motor, I would suggest using a really good industrial type vacuum cleaner and go easy with the one inch putty knife first. Then kerosene with a plenty of rags, the the suck machine again.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #24  
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You're down that far, pull it and do it right. JMO
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 61steven
To those who mentioned using kerosene in the engine oil- Wouldn't that degrade the seals in the engine?
No, but I bet if the seals are already trashed then sludge removal may cause them to leak?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
No, but I bet if the seals are already trashed then sludge removal may cause them to leak?
This is correct.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 09:18 PM
  #27  
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If you don't want to tear it down right away I'd suggest frequent oil changes and a strong detergent oil. Something like Rotella T diesel oil and change it every 1000 miles max. Maybe 500 miles first time. That will clean it up slowly and (maybe) avoid bigger problems.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #28  
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Ok pulled the pan today and found this... not much sludge inside the pan and the screen for the oil pump looked good ? Now that Im this far how much is a rebuild or overhaul ? Really tight on cash but not sure what to do. Thanks again for all the input.


 
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:02 PM
  #29  
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I am doing a 390 right now and it is going to coast me around 1200 bucks. That is for all head work, turning the crankshaft, checking the block, enginetech rebuild kit, and a summit cam. I left out the carb and intake because i assume you would use yours again. If you dont have high miles you should be able to just re-ring it for like four hundred bucks.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:17 PM
  #30  
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You may not know what you really need until you look at the pistons/crank/bearings and such. You may get away with just a simple rering/bearing kit, then again, you may end up having to bore it out and get a rebuild kit. By looking at what you've shown, once you start breaking that stuff up, it's bound to cause more issues in the future no matter what they are. I'd finish tearing it down, and see what's needed. Line up a machine shop near by incase you need work done. If you can swing the cash and the time, rebuilding a 302 isn't horrible by anymeans and you may be able to find a rebuilt short block cheap then worry about your heads if they need anything done.....many ways to save money pending on your search skills.
 
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