So I'm driving along in a heavy thunderstorm cell with lightning strikes all around me every 30 seconds and I hear what sounds like a gunshot out by the left front tire.

The truck quits and about every possible light blinks once but then come back on. All accessories keep working after a bit.

I got the truck off the road into a parking space and electrical is still mostly good except one thing. The "Wait To Start" indicator won't light up. The starter turns fine but the engine completely refuses to crank over.

Was I hit by lightning / near-miss? Or when the GPM decides it's 13 year run is over, does it pop like that?

It's still raining pretty steady, can't investigate yet.

 

I'd have to guess you were probably hit. I hope your PCM isn't toast.

 

Start by checking your fuses. Especially fuse #30

 

Can't find any evidence this happened. All fuses look good, pulled #30 and it's fine. None of the relays are even warm. No smell of any burnt electrical items.

I mis-typed above - the bang was out by the front right, which is why I'm thinking Glow Plug Module. I just had a full engine diagnostic about a thousand miles back, no weakness or issues with that.

Where is the PCM? Is that the module by the parking brake?

The only other symptom is that for the first ten minutes or so, when I turned on the dash lights, the speedometer would show 15 mph. Now it is back to zero. The VSS was recently re-wrapped as it would flutter the speedometer on a wet day but that went away after it was cleaned up.

 

Is that the original windshield or have you had it replaced?

 

dose the truck run?
the pcm is by the parking brake.
are you 100% sure the fuses are good? if no WTS light then there is a good chance the PCM dose not have power.

 

New windshield three months ago after the classic leak on the driver's side dud cause random exciting PCM issues. Has been fine since.

I was thinking that module was called the ECM for Electronic Control Module.

Out of energy to mess with it tonight. One more trip to take my saws out of it and I'll test the connection across fuse 30 in the morning.

 

I'm sure you could get any repairs covered under your comprehensive insurance coverage. Your story sounds like a strike.

 

Sounds like a strike for sure. Or at least a strike close enough to send some interesting signals through the electrical system!

Like said above, if the truck doesnt run, and the WTS light is not coming on, if fuse 30 isnt blown, chances are your PCM is fried. Easy check is to see if you have power in the cigarette lighter. If I remember correctly, they are on the same circuit.

 

Good morning. Haven't driven up there yet.

Have to move it out of an illegal parking spot, thinking to tow it to a friend's tire / oil change place only a few miles away who couldn't fix it but I could do it myself there.

It does appear most likely it could be just the PCM. The glow plug heater does start it's short growl when you turn the key and the starter turns vigorously so the solenoid is good. Every other electrical item I can think of was still working, including the upper power point. I don't use the lower power point / cigarette lighter after it got real loose in the socket.

So my question is - what is involved in switching one out? Some screws or small bolts and a major flat electrical ribbon connection?

And are they easy to get in the parts supply chain?

I figure I would replace the PCM relay just in case - any other likely parts to change?

Or should probably sort out if there could be a problem with the module on the right side I guess.

 

The pcm is 2 7mm bolts on the inside of the cab, and 1 10mm bolt outside the cab under the hood against the fire wall. Once they are all loose, you pull up and towards the brake pedal while wiggling a little bit and it will come out. I would get your pcm code and match it if you have a chip, or look for a PMT1 coded version at a local wrecking yard.

 

So I took the frame off the PCM but I can't get at the bolt outside the firewall very well. Perhaps if I moved the Power Distribution Box out of the way? But It doesn't look like there would be enough slack in all the wires to move it anywhere at all.

The PCM box won't disconnect … I'm starting to wonder if the lightning could solder the connection together?

Any thoughts on technique here?

 

Well I did get the outside bolt by putting just a socket on it and turning it with my fingers. PCM still won't wiggle off though I'm a little nervous about putting too much ooomph on it.

 

Chilton suggests taking off the flashing above the tire - should that really be necessary to disconnect a PCM?

 

no the flashinf is for the imd.
make sure you took the right plug off, there are 2 in there it is the one closest to the tire.