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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

need transmission help

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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 07:47 PM
  #1  
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need transmission help

Howdy,
Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?) I had zero transmission experience until 2 weeks ago so I am pretty ignorant in this matter, but my hopes are to obtain some knowledge as well as fix my honey. This is my first thread besides my formal introduction. I will be eagerly anticipating thoughts from those more familiar than myself. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:58 AM
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Are you checking fluid level when the fluid is hot? You cannot get an accurate measurement when the fluid is cold as it expands.
The "front seal" and the "front pump seal" could be the same, but I would have said the front seal was at the pulley end of the engine crankshaft. The front pump seal is where the torque converter hub is sealed, at the place where it rides in a bushing and engages the front pump. If the seal is hardened by heat, it can leak. If the bushing is worn, there can be too much fluid leak by and overpower the seal and drain. If the pressure regulator internal to the transmission is flaky, there can be excessive pressure and too much flow, and again flood the seal.
tom
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 09:46 AM
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Welcome to FTE.

I like tomw's idea to make sure your properly checking the tranny fluid level, as over filling will cause the fluid to foam, expand & throw up out the tranny vent. So if the vehicle wasn't on level ground, with the fluid at hot operating temp & its overfilled cold, the fluid wil expand when warm as tomw has explained & run out the vent & make a mess.

If overfilling isn't the problem & its a seal thats hardened, shrunk & leaking, it'll likely need to be replaced. If the leak is a small weep, or slow drip, you may be able to get joy trying something like a high mileage recipe tranny fluid, that has seal softening ester lubes in its recipe, like Valvolene Max Life, ect. If its a running/flowing type leak, thats more serious & will likely need part replacement. If it seems to be coming from a plate or pan gasket area, check/adjust the fastners torque to spec. Maybe you can buy some time & save some money up for a proper repair, or replacement.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find & how it goes.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:07 PM
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I think we've narrowed it down to transmission overheating or a bad seal. I'm currently running a temp test. I got a transmission temperature gauge off a Harley Davidson. Wire tied it to my coolant line. I will check temperature on short drives, note temperature, then see if I get a spike in temperature on a longer drive. If yes, I think a larger coolant tank will solve my prolem. If not overheating, I will look into seal and bushings. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 09:07 AM
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Sounds like a plan. You could always add an after market transmission cooler plumbed in using the original cooling lines. If you got a LARGE one, you could be pretty sure the transmission is not overheating, but you don't want the fluid to be cold when the temperature outdoors is low, so you can also have over-cooling.
There are descriptions and pictures of modifications made to A4LD pump bodies where the two passages drilled for fluid return from the bushing are cleaned up and enlarged. That takes care of fluid flooding the seal, but I would think checking the bushing for clearance would be a good idea before going to that extreme.
Other than hemorrhaging fluid onto the road, how does it work? If it works well, I'd just consider pulling it out and removing the seal, put the converter back in place, and check how wobbly it is, replace bushing if needed, check the hub, and clean up with crocus cloth if needed, replace the seal, and PBT. Refill, and drive...
tom
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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I have not heard anything about over cooling. Thanks for the tip! No prolems other than the hemorrhage when I drive over 30 miles distance. It's also been suggested to eliminate the coil running through the radiator to decrease coolant pumping distance. I look forward to pulling the tranny out to check seal and hub as it will give me more transmission knowledge and quality time with dad!. My long distance temp test should be complete by tomorrow night and hopefully have transmission out next week. My wife's Honda is having head problems also so I better get this done before we get stranded. Thanks for the help
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 11:18 AM
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I'm no transmission expert, but on my '86 with the A4LD, one of several points of leakage was the solenoid cover, near the rear of the transmission, I believe on the passenger side. My mechanic told me the covers are starting to get hard to come by, but then, what isn't on something of that age?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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I am looking at a 2004 ranger to buy. The guy says it needs "some" transmission work but isn't sure what exactly. I did notice that there is a stain on the driveway where the truck is parked, right under the transmission. Does this particular year have tranny problems or is it just a ford ranger problem in general? Any ideas on how much it will be to fix these issues?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2022 | 08:26 PM
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CD4E PUMP

HELLO IF IM NOT MISTAKEN THE PUMP DRIVESHAFT ONLY GOES INTO THE PUMP ONE WAY ???? IF IT DOESNT GO I8N THE PUMP WILL NOT TURN AND YOU HAVE NO GEARS CORRECT ????
 
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Old Dec 12, 2022 | 08:28 PM
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CD4E PUMP

HELLO IF IM NOT MISTAKEN THE PUMP DRIVESHAFT ONLY GOES INTO THE PUMP ONE WAY ???? IF IT DOESNT GO I8N THE PUMP WILL NOT TURN AND YOU HAVE NO GEARS CORRECT ????
 
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