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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 01:43 PM
  #1  
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Matseffie
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From: St Clair Sydney
Turbo issues

Does anyone no if the turbo wheels from RiffRaff suit out turbos ??
Is it woth while fitting the big head wastgate actuator while it's apart?.

Thanks Mat
 
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 06:39 AM
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Hi Mat,

you haven't said what sort of F250 you have in your sig-line.

Assuming it is a FA delivered 7.3 - which is equivalent to the US 2003 7.3, then yes the RR compressor wheel will fit.

Personally, I would say that the Banks Bighead is not really worthwhile - it is not the thing that will limit your truck's turbo boost. Look around for a the mechanical alternative if you want to upgrade the wastegate controller. And you can easily change out the wastegate controller without pulling the turbo.

The billet alloy compressor wheel makes a big difference because it spins up really quickly and pulls 30+ psi in boost. Before you change the compressor wheel over you would ideally have already upgraded the IC boots & stuck in a chip and/or boost fooler otherwise the stock program will de-fuel at 23 psi of boost.

all the best!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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Hi Simon , thanks for the info ,, my f truck is a 9/03 model , I'm also replacing the ic boots and also have a tuner for it ..
The reason for doing this now is I have a oil leak in the valley and it doesn't seem to be coming from the hpop.. Any ideas??
Thanks Mat
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 04:42 AM
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Hi Mat, you'll want to get the plenum reinforcing inserts, and while you're doing the turbo do an AIH delete, EBPV delete with a 'delete EBPV turbo pedestal & high-flow turbo outlet. Look at the Common Mods post.

Check your valley leak and determine if it is diesel fuel leaking. The ozzy ULSD dissolves the stock fuel bowl seals - they end up being little yellow skid marks where there was once seal. Riff Raff sells the Guzzle seal-kits to replace those - the special military spec (blue) seals will solve that problem permanently.

If the leak is not diesel, all you can do is clean it up and see if you can determine exactly where the leak is coming from.

Regards,
Simon
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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ChunderDownUnder
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my bet is the turbo pedestal (EBVP) is leaking. Like Simon said you will have to clean her up real good to find out where its coming from.
If so you will need this. The bootom of the link has a PDF with instructions
99-03 Turbo Pedestal EBPV Rebuild Kit
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 03:55 AM
  #6  
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Nkelly
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I mentioned the banks bighead actuator too clay once and he steered me in another direction,but I can't remember which direction it was ??? all I remember he said I was waisting my money..
Clays ported housing and his new 11 blade comp wheel made a difference too my truck,got rid of some black smoke too..
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:41 AM
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The Gen2 WW I put in completely cured the turbo surge. I mainly got turbo surge at WOT towing up hill - you'd hear this pulsating sound then loose boost. The new compressor wheel spins up fast, less than 3 secs to 30+ psi and holds it there with no fuss. A fantastic piece of engineering smarts from someone who knows their stuff.

If you're having to pull your turbo -here is the list:
- seals kit, including turbo hold-down bolts;
- billet compressor wheel;
- EBPV delete pedestal;
- Garrent Hi-flow outlet (gets rid of the EBPV butterfly);
- IH bellowed uppies (expensive but the stock ones are notoriously hard to seal after a pull down).

My first oil-leak in the valley was the EBPV actuator rod - the rod that comes out of the turbo pedestal. Doing the EBPV delete gets rid of this point of failure.

The EBPV is designed to hold heat in the engine and is activated by the ECM in -stupid temp for extended idling. Something few aussie trucks would ever have to deal with (-stupid).

There is a mechanical waste-gate actuator, which is the one I think Bryan might be thinking of above here:
http://www.dieselsite.com/19995-2003...ontroller.aspx
 
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