Ok I finally finished my 460, but sadly I got an issue. The engine cranks over fine and wants to start when I spray starting fluid, but that's as far as it goes. I recently ordered a new fuel tank, which I haven't received so, I'm supplying fuel directly from a gas can.

Now at first I though it was the way I'm supplying the fuel, then I thought It was the carburetor, so decided to switch the old Motorcraft(which worked flawlessly last time) to a Holley 750 carburetor, same results, until I decided to check the fuel pump, and to my surprise there isn't a drop of fuel on the line running to the carburetor . Now I'm concerned because the fuel pump isn't that old, it still looks brand new! So what could it be? Bad fuel pump or the way I'm supplying the fuel?

Thanks!

 

If the mechanical fuel pump is working like it should, no problem pulling fuel from a 5 gal can easy enough.

Sounds like a bad new pump, have you back flushed (from the pump back to the tank) the lines? You tank sending unit filter sock could be clogged shut if your tank is that bad?

 

or did you hook up you fuel pump backwards?

 

Are you sure the pump isn't pulling air? Cracked or open union along the frame rail? Are you sure the supply hose is actually seated in fuel in the gas can?

 

1. Will the motor start and stay running when you CAREFULLY pore a little gas AT A TIME (not starting fluid) down the carb? Get some help to start it and you pour the fuel and work the throttle by hand. Or use a squirt bottle, its safer IMO.

If yes try this.

2. Take the fuel "out" line off the pump, make sure the feed line is in the gas. I use a large glass jar setting below the motor on the ground. So I can see if it is pulling fuel.

This is done with 2 people easier.

3. Turn over the motor with the key for like 20 sec, that is enough revolutions to pull fuel from the jar and see if is it spitting fuel out the fuel pump out port that is suppose to go to the carb.

If not I say bad pump, replace and report, and are you sure you got the pump arm under the eccentric cam? Once you put a new pump on same step 2 and 3 to make sure and get the new pump primmed.

You should not have to prime it, but I do the hand pour and throttle after I do the turn over look for the squirt trick.

 

I'm just a wee bit upset that you guys are giving help to a fellow member, cut that out. :-)

 

Guess I need to be more professional and just answer the questions and not worry about being so sociable huh? lol

 

Oh guess you missed the lol, that means I am laughing. That input of yours really helped this guys fuel delivery issue.

Have any beneficial input to this thread? Then put it in here please. Have a nice day!

 

LOL, anyways:

*yes I did check multiple times if the fuel line was reaching all the way into the tank.

*At first yes I forgot to supply fuel, and yes I cranked the engine over, big issue?

*The fuel pump isn't put on backwards.

*The fuel lines and fuel filter are brand new

*Haven't back flushed, might give it a try

*The engine does stay running when poring small amounts of fuel at a time

''are you sure you got the pump arm under the eccentric cam"
*good point, last time I installed the pump it was slightly difficult, like if it was hitting something and i had to use a bit of force, now this time it just slipped right in... ill check that out

Ill report as soon as I can

Thanks guys really appreciate it!

 

That's not a problem.

Just to clarify, you've confirmed the fuel lines are not swapped?

Fuel pumps must be replaced with the engine at TDC. This places the eccentric at its lowest point. So the first time, you probably weren't at TDC, but you were the second time. I don't believe it's possible to slip the pump arm above the eccentric, on any engine. So if it went in at all, it's riding the cam like it should.

 

*At first yes I forgot to supply fuel, and yes I cranked the engine over, big issue? NO
*The fuel pump isn't put on backwards. We never said fuel pump, it was asked about the fuel lines?

When installing the fuel pump if should be difficult or at least have some down ward spring pressure from the arm being correctly under the eccentric cam.

Tilt it so you know its under the eccentric cam, start the top bolt, once 1/2 way in, pull down on pump should have a little pressure and start the bottom one.

You sure the fuel tank sending unit fuel pick up tube filter sock is not gummed and clogged shut?

Since the motor will run on pour gas, that good.

Next get the fuel pump to pull fuel from a jug/jar and squirt fuel out the port for the carb line.

That way you know the pump is working.

Then connect the pump out put to the carb, start motor see if it will pull fuel from jug and keep it running.

Yes, then back flush the line from the connection end for the pump with some LOW air pressure. I figured with the new fuel lines and filter, a new tank and sending unit would of been on the do at the same time list? Anyway....

If your assistant can head a air going in making a gurgle sound, its not plugged.

Connect it all up, prime the carb with a quirt bottle, you can do a low pressure tank trick with a rag and a air nozzle tip. Put the rag or just your hand over the end in the tank filler neck and apply some LOW pressurized air to the tank and have the assistant try to start it.

Hope it cranks....let us know.

 

I just removed the fuel pump, placed the line in the gas tank, cranked it by hand and it worked............ ?

The first time I changed the fuel pump it wasn't on TDC, this time it was..

Yes

Now... the only time it sucked fuel, the fuel pump started leaking from the line that goes all the way up the the carburetor(metal line that connects to the fuel pump) it was a bit loose, now since the (metal) fuel line is the original i'm going to check it to make sure its not clogged.

And just to clarify I din't move anything inside the timing chain, didn't even remove the timing cover so the eccentric cam isn't the issue.


Update:
Just checked the line not clogged....

 

Sorry for double post...

Anyways I finally got it to run.... daumm, Filled up the line between the carburetor and fuel pump, including the line that goes to the gas tank, after a few cranks with constant starting fluid it ran, rough, but it ran. Ended up letting the engine sit without cranking it for about 10 minutes and gave it another try, this time without starting fluid... after it cranked for 2 seconds it turned on! YES, idling perfect, and engine sounding smooth ..... but of course another small issue...

Now I know nothing about carburetors, we weren't taught about carburetors in school, hopefully some of you guys can help me out. NOTE: the image bellow is not the actual carburetor, its late and images don't come out right, but it will work since they are both 4350 carbs.




Red= leaking gas from the gaskets, and yes kinda bad, had to put a towel underneath.

Orange= started throwing fuel, not drops but a sh** load??

So... bad carburetor? Might need a rebuilt? or is it just flooded? Ill replace it tomorrow with my Holley 750.

And lastly in the water pump were the heater hose goes, I blocked it, and in the Intake manifold I installed a temperature sensor, when the engine ran for a min or so without any issues small amounts of smoke came from the engine block(not in a specific place mainly around the exhaust manifolds), both temperature sensors, the one in the truck and the one I installed didn't record high temps didn't even notice the needle move(most likely because the engine only ran for about a min). The engine block wasn't touched including the oil pan so they still contain some grease, could it be it was burning the old grease as it started to get hot?

Thanks guys!

 

The two items circled in ORANGE are the bowl vents. If they dump fuel, the float is stuck open. The most common cause is debris in the needle seat. Based on that and the fact that it's leaking from other areas, the carburetor needs to be dipped and rebuilt.

If your engine seeps some oil (valve cover, etc) and hasn't ran for a long time, it's pretty normal for there to be some light smoke coming out of the engine bay the first time the engine reaches operating temperature. It should burn off pretty quickly though.