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Here is my NEW/NEXT question: What is the difference between the TS-6 Position chip/switch and Banks Power Pack?
Chip/Switch 2nd to highest power level puts out same power as banks kit, but costs $300-ish compared to $3500. What are the pros/cons of each? I'm in CA so trying to play by the rules but if I can get the same performance for 10% of the cost I'll play the game.... Does the chip on those settings create excess heat/wear compared with the banks system? This would be used while towing so I don't want to only run the 50hp setting where the banks would give me 100hp. If that were the case I would go the banks route since it "SHOULD" be safe to run while towing. Just looking for a little more insight. If I go the chip route I would also do some supporting mods to keep air moving and things together ....
I believe $3500 is the rough price for their power pack that I referenced. Big thing in CA is banks has CARB numbers so there is no hassle. I know its a lot but not having any issues is appealing. But like I said if reliability isn't an issue then I may go that route .... I like to have lots of information before making a decision.
Being informed is a good thing. The TS 6 pos chip is easy enough to remove for inspection purposes as most chips on the powerstroke are, barely a 10 minute job.
Banks is not bad stuff by any means. He does a lot of research and testing before putting his name on it. That is why his products is so pricey.
Would I notice any difference in the 100hp and 140hp tunes? Was reading some posts on the 95-97 page and most said those two tunes don't do much because injectors are limiting factor .... My truck is completely stock and never been chipped or modded before except for a K&N filter. The way I figure is $300 is a cheap way to see what the power increase would feel like/ be capable of doing in my current rig. I use dad's 2010 6.4 for towing so this "should" put me at the same power level so it would be interesting to feel the differences ....
You will definitely notice a difference with a 100hp setting. Who is the tuner that you are thinking of using?
The stock split shot injectors won't be able to put you too much above 100HP in gains maximum. The HPOP can't supply enough oil to go much more than 100HP. I wouldn't chip a truck without exhaust gas temperature, and transmission temperature gauges at the very least, first.
I hope that K&N isn't the drop in kind. These trucks are notorious for the factory air box not sealing properly and the K&N drop in filter has been known to exacerbate the problem. If it is the cone style that goes on the end of an intake tube, many people have had good results with them. If it is the stock airbox, I wouldn't keep that for too much longer.
Originally Posted by excavator
what truck do you have? Does not say in your signature.
The PHP Hydra might be good for you
Under his username it say his truck is a 2001 F350
do your homework. I had to take my 02 250 in to be smogged, my truck is all stock too. but they will hook your truck up to the plug below your steering wheel, to check the pcm or idm or whatever.....sniffer in tail pipe....they also do a visual. I think they can tell if your truck was chipped when they hook their computer to your truck.....so im leaving mine stock just to avoid hassels.
I axed the tester guy a bunch of questions, basically what I remember is any mods need to be carb approved. But the carb approvals are sketchy because something might be approved this year, but that may change to not approved in a few years. he said hes seen people with carb certs that we no longer valid...or a carb cert that wasn't really ca. approved.
I had to take my 02 250 in to be smogged, my truck is all stock too. but they will hook your truck up to the plug below your steering wheel,
Correct.
.....sniffer in tail pipe....
Not correct.
If they did this to your diesel truck, go to a different station because the one you used is ignorant.
Diesels don't get the sniffer, gas engines do.
Diesels get the snap test, gas engines don't.
they also do a visual.
Correct.
I think they can tell if your truck was chipped when they hook their computer to your truck.....
They cannot. But even if they could tell, it wouldn't cause a "failure-to-pass" because the truck wouldn't be currently chipped during the test.
basically what I remember is any mods need to be carb approved. But the carb approvals are sketchy because something might be approved this year, but that may change to not approved in a few years. he said hes seen people with carb certs that we no longer valid...or a carb cert that wasn't really ca. approved.
good luck
Wow, the guy you talked to really is ignorant.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Mar 13, 2014 at 06:45 PM.
I bought the Banks power pack kit 2 yrs before I joined here and I wish I would have waited and did more research because I could have gotten different items for much cheaper. I changed out the chip for a DP tuner because I wanted different tunes at my fingertips. I still have my chip that I'm trying to get rid of so if your interested send me a PM.
I think they can tell if your truck was chipped when they hook their computer to your truck.....so im leaving mine stock just to avoid hassels.
They cannot tell. However, if they see a switcher or even stickers for a tuner, they are obligated under the law to look at your PCM for the presence of a chip.
If you have questions about tuning/tuners and what you can and can't do, feel free to give us a call
Yes I am aware of the diesel smog requirements and would simply disconnect it for the test. As long as I can feel that 100hp tune cool. I could always go banks kit after that just to be legitimate and follow the rules and I would only be out $300. Not bad compared to possibly going the other direction .... I will be doing many supporting mods but just wanted to test out the power. I've thought of selling the truck to go with something newer so this is the cheapest way to test if I would keep it with elevated power.
Does your truck have a catalytic converter? If so you're gonna want to put it back before a smog test.
IMO, the Banks stuff doesn't do anything better than the same parts you can get from any other vendor for much less. The appeal of the Banks kit is that it's just that, a kit! But when you break it down there's things in that kit you don't need. For example, the Trans command. I've talked to a few Trans builders who advised against it. (You can have mine if you want it). A better option would be a valve body from John Woods, BTS, etc. A wicked wheel or a Riffraff billet compressor wheel would be a better choice than the banks. The Banks quick spool housing is just a Garrett 1.0 a/r housing that can be had for cheaper...I could go on and on, but the bottom line is my truck started out with Banks parts and now the only Banks parts left are my exhaust and power elbow. BTW I have the Banks big head wastegate, Trans command, banks compressor wheel, and quick spool housing in my garage if you're interested.
I'm also in Kalifornia running over 400 rwhp and I just passed a smog check. I can floor it all day with no smoke in the stock tune, or I can create a giant black cloud in the hot tune (although I don't, because We don't need more negative public opinion of tuned diesels).
Spooner will chime in when he see's this thread. Install the 6-switch where the cig lighter is, like he did. Bam, hidden from the unknown and no hassling with removing/unplugging and turned to "stock" when smogging.
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