IP cover leak
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IP cover leak
Okay, so just a quick question and hoping someone can answer it for me. The seal appears to have cracked, gone bad, etc. on the small cover plate on the side of my injection pump and it is leaking small amounts of fuel when the truck is running (pressurized). So relating to air intrusion and all, could this leak be causing my fuel to recede back to the tank and cause my hard and or no starting even on days like today where it was all of 60 degrees? My assumption would be yes, but clarification would be nice.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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Yes, you want to fix that. Your fuel in the IP is draining out of that, and air going in and draining the rest of the system.
However, I want to put this here as well, related to air intrusion:
However, I want to put this here as well, related to air intrusion:
I read an article explaining the problem:
There is supposed to be a check-valve in the filter head. This is what is failing(ULSD? Time?), and that means air is sucked into the filter:
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/filter.jpg
Note that I just added an outside checkvalve myself, and it totally solved my own air intrusion problem... Even with one of the return lines open to the air!
There is supposed to be a check-valve in the filter head. This is what is failing(ULSD? Time?), and that means air is sucked into the filter:
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/filter.jpg
Note that I just added an outside checkvalve myself, and it totally solved my own air intrusion problem... Even with one of the return lines open to the air!
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Okay, so to the best of my knowledge I have addressed and taken care of my IP leak but still doesn't want to start after it cools down (sets for over 3 1/2 hours).I looked at the diagrams of the filter head, but mine was changed when the engine swap was done and only has the schraeder valve on the side, nothing else. Is there still potentially a check valve in the head or am I barking up the wrong tree?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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Okay, so to the best of my knowledge I have addressed and taken care of my IP leak but still doesn't want to start after it cools down (sets for over 3 1/2 hours).I looked at the diagrams of the filter head, but mine was changed when the engine swap was done and only has the schraeder valve on the side, nothing else. Is there still potentially a check valve in the head or am I barking up the wrong tree?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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Okay, so to the best of my knowledge I have addressed and taken care of my IP leak but still doesn't want to start after it cools down (sets for over 3 1/2 hours). I looked at the diagrams of the filter head, but mine was changed when the engine swap was done and only has the schraeder valve on the side, nothing else. Is there still potentially a check valve in the head or am I barking up the wrong tree?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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And on that note I would like to add that I am sorry... Somehow in my attempt to edit a typo, I managed to repost quoting myself twice....?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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What I did was put a check valve up at the filter head height, between the mechanical fuel pump and the filter.
That way the fuel can't drain back from the filter head on the incoming line.
The worst case(air going into the filter head through the little heater wire seal) wouldn't allow the filter to drain much, and the IP won't drain without an internal leak(as it's return line is above the top of the pump).
Now, I'm not sure if my system leaks a slight bit of air in or not... but it hasn't died from lack of fuel once started since I did this.
And this includes letting it sit overnight with one of the return lines simply /open/.
My check valve was the cheapest one I could find: A $5 squeeze-bulb primer off Ebay(which has two inside it, so flow only goes one way when you squeeze it).
It's worked for a year+.
Edit: As an added benefit, if I ever run out of fuel(or think I might be), squeezing that bulb will tell me a lot.
That way the fuel can't drain back from the filter head on the incoming line.
The worst case(air going into the filter head through the little heater wire seal) wouldn't allow the filter to drain much, and the IP won't drain without an internal leak(as it's return line is above the top of the pump).
Now, I'm not sure if my system leaks a slight bit of air in or not... but it hasn't died from lack of fuel once started since I did this.
And this includes letting it sit overnight with one of the return lines simply /open/.
My check valve was the cheapest one I could find: A $5 squeeze-bulb primer off Ebay(which has two inside it, so flow only goes one way when you squeeze it).
It's worked for a year+.
Edit: As an added benefit, if I ever run out of fuel(or think I might be), squeezing that bulb will tell me a lot.
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I have been reading up and I did think about putting the inline check valve in since it seems to help people quite a bit. Do you have any thoughts on putting a small in line electric pump on to prime the system before startup?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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I have been reading up and I did think about putting the inline check valve in since it seems to help people quite a bit. Do you have any thoughts on putting a small in line electric pump on to prime the system before startup?
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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Well, got myself a check valve and installed it tonight. Sealed up and stays dry so far and is air tight, so hopefully liquid tight too. Of course I won't know if it makes a difference until tomorrow. The truck was still warm from driving home from work and then to Lowes to get the stuff, so I didn't really get to test test it except examining for leaks. Hopefully it aids in my starting...
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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So I would say the check valve is working extremely well as of now. Had to cold start the truck after setting 3 times today, anywhere from 24degrees this morning to 55 tonight when I left work and it popped right off every time with NO trouble and better than ever. Lets just hope it stays that way.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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Already taken care of. That was the point for the title of the thread. It was leaking trace amounts of fuel around the pump cover. I got it fixed up to the point where no more fuel leaks... But I know air can get a lot of places liquids can't so I'm definitely sticking to the check valve.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3 liter idi conversion, k&n high flow filter system, tuned injection pump, down-piped dual 3" exhaust, door pillar gauge pod with glow shift gauges, 4-speed automatic with heavy duty shift kit.
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