Need help with column shift selector - automatic
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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Need help with column shift selector - automatic
Hey. New member. I posted last week about my transmission woes, and I appreciate the help. So... Truck is sitting now waiting till I have the money for trans rebuild. Been cranking every other day, and now that it's warm, been putting in drive to see if it will catch. No. Well today I started it, pulled selector into R and it's just flopping around. Something is disconnected between the shift arm and the arm at the bottom of the steering column. They are no longer connected. So now I have to fix this before I can take it to the trans guy!
I've read some posts and it sounds like my detent is broken... Not sure what that is or where to find it.
So, do I remove the steering wheel and look in that area, or do I need to remove the whole column and look at the lower end? Help, I'm just about over this truck!
One more thing if this helps. The truck won't start now. I looked at the arm sticking out of the column that is supposed to ride on the neutral safety switch. It is about 1/4 of an inch away from making contact. It's like I need to push the steering wheel in so the arm will make contact with the switch. I'm sure this is related to what ever got out of whack.
Guess there is a slight chance that I've had a linkage problem and my trans will start working when I get this sorted out.
Thanks for any suggestions.
I've read some posts and it sounds like my detent is broken... Not sure what that is or where to find it.
So, do I remove the steering wheel and look in that area, or do I need to remove the whole column and look at the lower end? Help, I'm just about over this truck!
One more thing if this helps. The truck won't start now. I looked at the arm sticking out of the column that is supposed to ride on the neutral safety switch. It is about 1/4 of an inch away from making contact. It's like I need to push the steering wheel in so the arm will make contact with the switch. I'm sure this is related to what ever got out of whack.
Guess there is a slight chance that I've had a linkage problem and my trans will start working when I get this sorted out.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,308
Likes: 19
From: Las Vegas, NV
first check to see if your linkage is still connected to the column under the hood.
There is a plastic grommet that gets old and breaks apart leaving the linkage to flop around and even come loose.
I don't have an auto so that would be the only thing that comes to mind other than internals of the column
There is a plastic grommet that gets old and breaks apart leaving the linkage to flop around and even come loose.
I don't have an auto so that would be the only thing that comes to mind other than internals of the column
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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first check to see if your linkage is still connected to the column under the hood.
There is a plastic grommet that gets old and breaks apart leaving the linkage to flop around and even come loose.
I don't have an auto so that would be the only thing that comes to mind other than internals of the column
There is a plastic grommet that gets old and breaks apart leaving the linkage to flop around and even come loose.
I don't have an auto so that would be the only thing that comes to mind other than internals of the column
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
That neutral safety switch is just plugged into a 4 pin connector. Two wires are for back up lights, two wires for neutral switch. Just unplug the two for the switch and run a jumper wire and you will be able to start the truck.
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Junior User
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The neutral safety switch is not the problem. I was trying to point out that the arm that sticks out from inside the column is supposed sit next to the switch so when you put it in park it activates the switch. My arm is about 1/4" away from the switch. What ever the arm is attached to needs to go towards the steering box, then it would rest on the switch. Its like something got sprung inside the column and that's why my shifter arm is flopping around. Maybe later I'll post some pics.
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Junior User
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Ok here is a pic with some notes. Again, my switch is not the problem. My shifter no longer moves the arm coming out of the steering column (which is visible in the engine compartment) which is attached to the trans.
The only reason I pointed out the neutral safety switch is it might be a clue to what happened. The arm has moved away from the switch. I can crank by reaching down and sliding the switch to the left. Of course I can't go anywhere!
The only reason I pointed out the neutral safety switch is it might be a clue to what happened. The arm has moved away from the switch. I can crank by reaching down and sliding the switch to the left. Of course I can't go anywhere!
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
It depends on what all you mean by flopping around. It sounds like the shift flange (shift collar) that the lever pivots in broke. If you take the steering wheel off and the T/S switch out I think you'll see the problem. Just move the switch far enough towards you so you can get it out of your way for right now. Don't pull it's wires too far up the column yet. Please report back your findings.
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Junior User
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I'll take a look. But, I'm thinking something is broken at the other end. The reason - the arm (neutral safety) in the picture above still moves when I move the gear selector. It is almost to the firewall. So, I know the selector is making something move down there, but nothing is moving on the other side of the firewall...
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
D0TZ-7B097-B (replaced C5TZ-7B097-A & D0TZ-7B097-A) .. NSS Selector Lever-Spring Steel / Obsolete
Attaches to shift tube thru hole in mast jacket (steering column shroud).
Has a knife blade end that fits into NSS, it's notorious for snapping off. Or the little charmer loses tensile strength and falls off the tube.
Applications: 1965/77 F100/350.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 15 = 800-543=4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 2,703 (!) = 800-476-8653.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C5TZ-7228-A & C9TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar Kit / Available from Ford ~ MSRP: $66.85.
Applications: 1965/77 F100/350 / 1973/77 Bronco.
'Pot metal' collar has an internal bridge that connects it to the shift tube. Over time cracks develop, eventually the bridge snaps off.
Now you aren't going anywhere, because the shift lever is 'flopping around' as it's no longer connected to the shift tube.
Attaches to shift tube thru hole in mast jacket (steering column shroud).
Has a knife blade end that fits into NSS, it's notorious for snapping off. Or the little charmer loses tensile strength and falls off the tube.
Applications: 1965/77 F100/350.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 15 = 800-543=4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 2,703 (!) = 800-476-8653.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C5TZ-7228-A & C9TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar Kit / Available from Ford ~ MSRP: $66.85.
Applications: 1965/77 F100/350 / 1973/77 Bronco.
'Pot metal' collar has an internal bridge that connects it to the shift tube. Over time cracks develop, eventually the bridge snaps off.
Now you aren't going anywhere, because the shift lever is 'flopping around' as it's no longer connected to the shift tube.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
I'll take a look. But, I'm thinking something is broken at the other end. The reason - the arm (neutral safety) in the picture above still moves when I move the gear selector. It is almost to the firewall. So, I know the selector is making something move down there, but nothing is moving on the other side of the firewall...
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Junior User
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That makes sense. That would explain why it moves the neutral switch lever, but nothing any lower. Hope you are right.