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Proactive Work Planned... ???s re Injector Cups

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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Proactive Work Planned... ???s re Injector Cups

My truck has 252K on it, and I'm getting ready to dig into the valley to do some proactive work so that I have more control over the fallout of my truck's natural aging (maturing) process. I would rather make proactive component replacements as opposed to either running or slipping into failure situations in some remote location where I have neither my tools nor my own bed to sleep in.

Additional context... I'm currently planning to sell this truck during the summer and replace it with another 7.3 CC with 4WD. I don't mind investing a little to help the sales process, but don't want to throw away unnecessary money. I will already be replacing the front seat covers and front tires before the sale.

Planned work...

Rebuild of the fuel bowl
Replacement of the following:
- passenger side fuel line (part on hand)
- GPR (parts on hand)
- glow plugs (parts on hand)
- UV harness and connectors (yet to purchase)
- valve cover gaskets (yet to purchase)
- injector orings (yet to purchase)
- HPOP orings and lines (parts on hand)

My question is this...

What about my injector cups? Should I go ahead and replace them at the same time while I'm under the valve covers and have the injectors out?

If so, why (aside from "you're already in there")?

If not, why not (aside from "if it ain't broke")?

As always... thanks ahead of time for your input.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:12 AM
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I don't think I would do the cups, but then again, I had a hard time doing them right the first time. Especially if its going to be sold, I wouldn't do them. They could still last a while.

The UVC harness makes sense - you got good life out of them. Mine died at 136K. I would think the VC gaskets would be reusable for some time - unless one or more contacts are burnt.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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Thanks, Jeff. I also failed to mention that I do have a boroscope which I will use to visually inspect the cups while the injectors are out. Obviously, if I see a problem at that point, replacement may no longer be optional.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 10:54 AM
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You could just sell it as is and keep these parts for the next 7.3 that may need them. I usually replace parts before they break; however, you need to determine if the cost of all of these parts and labor will be justified in the selling price of the truck. If you are only looking at a 25 percent return or so, then don't do it. Replacing a lot of parts before a sale could be a good sign or a bad one depending upon how you look at it.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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I wouldn't mess with the cups. It's a daunting task - not so much difficult as it is very detail-oriented to prevent failure. One hiccup in the procedure leaves you diving in again for rework on something that was not an issue before you touched it. This is a job best left for zero-option scenarios. If you have any foreign matter in the degas - like soot or fuel - then I wouldn't let it ride. While transmission fluid and oil can get in the coolant - they have nothing to do with cups.

If you choose to do cups, the popcorn's on me this time.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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I've considered some of that, Dan and Rich. I'm pretty set on replacing everything in my list except for the VC gaskets and passenger side fuel line for the exact reason you've noted.

However, I put nearly 1500-1700 miles on my truck every month, and based on when I typically see reports of the fuel line failure, I fear that it may not last until late summer and don't really want to have to be dealing with that kind of fuel blowing fiasco in the middle of nowhere.

I think, though, that seeing your logic in black and white helps me want to hold off on a proactive cup replacement and perhaps the GPR replacement as well (especially since I'm building a custom bracket for the upgraded Stancor GPR).

I also have more than one set of GP's on hand, so I can still manage the GP replacement as a proactive step without any real consequence at all (I would still have a couple sets on hand for both my '03 Excursion and the replacement truck).

OK... I think I've been convinced at this point to take the following approach...

MODIFIED Work Plan...

Rebuild of the fuel bowl
Replacement of the following:
- passenger side fuel line (part on hand)
- GPR (parts on hand) DELETE LINE (save parts for future vehicle)
- glow plugs (parts on hand)
- UV harness and connectors (yet to purchase)
- valve cover gaskets (yet to purchase)
- injector orings (yet to purchase)
- HPOP orings and lines (parts on hand)
- injector cups? NO!

I'll still scope the injector ports to look at the condition of the cups, and will only consider replacement(s) if visual inspection reveals a serious issue.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate your helping me "think out loud" and reach what I consider to be a well-informed and well-guided approach. If I don't post anything up on any of the issues above, that will be because everything went well with no issues, but I'll probably post a few pics anyway.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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FWIW

I would add pictures of what you're going to do to the list. 9 out of 10 times a seller is trying to feed as much BS as they can down your throat to make you think you're getting a good deal, if you have some sort of proof that this took place would be a good selling point IMHO.
The last car I sold I did the timing belt and replaced everything from the top of the block up. I took pictures for that reason and the guy looking at the car wanted proof I wasn't full of it. I got out my phone and showed him every step.
Good luck
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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I didn't replace my cups when I did injectors. I also didn't change my valve cover gaskets or UVCH or passenger side fuel line.

Oddly enough, my factory GPR is still working fine too. Of course if we start having more winters like this one, I can see that going out soon. Otherwise, the mild Texas winters have been kind to my GPR.

I did reshape that little clamp and add some rubber between the line and clamp so it's not going to rub a hole in the line early on though.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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Pete, I can't remember. What year is it? 2WD?

She won't last a week on the lot or in the paper. They sell way fast!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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I have replaced three sets of injector cups. Two for friends with diesel filling the cooling system, and my own when I rebuilt my engine. I'm only adding my personal experience here so it may not always be as I've seen. On both the trucks I worked on when I pulled the injectors I had 1 cup come out on an injector, on the other engine I had 3 come out on the injectors. Both engines I wasn't planning on this happening but I'm glad I had already drained the block which prevented water from getting in the engine internals. On my personal truck all of the cups were hard to come out, and I had pulled the injectors numerous times.
Two things to add
1 if you don't have diesel in your coolant don't mess with em.
2 if you do plan to do it allow at least a day to let the compound set up and seal

I'm really not sure if the compound actually seals it from leaking or if it's the press fit. Also as far as inspecting them, what's to inspect? All of them I have pulled on all three motors have looked to be in good shape, only difference was both trucks that had diesel in coolant, at least one cup popped out on the end of an injector.
Oh yea by the way "What's up guys"
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bulla
...Also as far as inspecting them, what's to inspect?
You missed "The Adventures of Stinky". This is what an inspection did for me:



 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 12:17 PM
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I remember being surprised the cups came out with the black coating, Rich. Did you have an idea what that was from?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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Probably exhaust gases introduced into the coolant side. Just guessing though.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan V
Probably exhaust gases introduced into the coolant side. Just guessing though.
Yup... that's it.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by white Buffalo
Pete, I can't remember. What year is it? 2WD?

She won't last a week on the lot or in the paper. They sell way fast!
Yep... I know... I'm looking for an OBS for my 17yo right now, but his budget is limited to about $6K. Mine is a 2002, 2WD, CC, short bed with sprayed in liner.


Originally Posted by JOHN2001
FWIW

I would add pictures of what you're going to do to the list. 9 out of 10 times a seller is trying to feed as much BS as they can down your throat to make you think you're getting a good deal, if you have some sort of proof that this took place would be a good selling point IMHO.
The last car I sold I did the timing belt and replaced everything from the top of the block up. I took pictures for that reason and the guy looking at the car wanted proof I wasn't full of it. I got out my phone and showed him every step.
Good luck
Excellent point. Thanks. I'll remember that.


Originally Posted by F350-6
I didn't replace my cups when I did injectors. I also didn't change my valve cover gaskets or UVCH or passenger side fuel line.

Oddly enough, my factory GPR is still working fine too. Of course if we start having more winters like this one, I can see that going out soon. Otherwise, the mild Texas winters have been kind to my GPR.

I did reshape that little clamp and add some rubber between the line and clamp so it's not going to rub a hole in the line early on though.
You know, Chris, the more I think about all this, the more my lazy side keeps goading me into trimming back what I do to the bare minimum and saving my efforts for the new ride.


Originally Posted by bulla
I have replaced three sets of injector cups. Two for friends with diesel filling the cooling system, and my own when I rebuilt my engine. I'm only adding my personal experience here so it may not always be as I've seen. On both the trucks I worked on when I pulled the injectors I had 1 cup come out on an injector, on the other engine I had 3 come out on the injectors. Both engines I wasn't planning on this happening but I'm glad I had already drained the block which prevented water from getting in the engine internals. On my personal truck all of the cups were hard to come out, and I had pulled the injectors numerous times.
Two things to add
1 if you don't have diesel in your coolant don't mess with em.
2 if you do plan to do it allow at least a day to let the compound set up and seal

I'm really not sure if the compound actually seals it from leaking or if it's the press fit. Also as far as inspecting them, what's to inspect? All of them I have pulled on all three motors have looked to be in good shape, only difference was both trucks that had diesel in coolant, at least one cup popped out on the end of an injector.
Oh yea by the way "What's up guys"
Thanks for the additional input. Good info.
 
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