Dizzy with ideas
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Dizzy with ideas
So I am doing a TMeyer 400 build for my 81 F250. I'm going to be putting the Duraspark dizzy back in and praying it works as it was factory tuned for the 351 displacement. I've seen some discussion on aftermarket options, and have had Accel recommended to me by my step father who put one in an 81 F150 302 4X4 (my first truck). I was looking to get everyone here's input and ideas. I am NOT interested in HEI (Chevy style) distributors. I want to keep it similar to stock.
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[edit:] I was looking around on Summit and found a Davis Unified Ignition Duraspark dizzy and coil/module set. Anyone have any experience with these?
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Many aftermarket distributors tout their better, or "full length", bearings. But on a Ford the bottom of a distributor's shaft runs in a bearing in the block that has its own oiling passage. And my testing shows there to be very little side play on even well worn distributors. So I don't see that as a big issue. Given that I'm going with a cheap "new" one I picked up off Amazon.
But, I will put high a quality cap, rotor, and adaptor on it. And, I'll spend time modifying the advance to get what the engine needs as the dizzy I got has an emissions-style curve built in. And, I will run a Ford DS-II ignition box, but will probably run a hotter coil than stock.
But, I will put high a quality cap, rotor, and adaptor on it. And, I'll spend time modifying the advance to get what the engine needs as the dizzy I got has an emissions-style curve built in. And, I will run a Ford DS-II ignition box, but will probably run a hotter coil than stock.
pedant
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Just went through this last week with Piston Honda in his Newbie Resto thread.
There's $50 worth of parts with an extra $150 worth of stickers on them.
pedant
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This is simply a matter of winding ratios and primary voltage.
ANY coil will only build enough voltage to jump the spark plug gap.
Which one did you intend to use?
FTE Legend
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pedant
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pedant
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Page 14 of this pdf of the factory troubleshooting manual shows 0.8-1.6 Ohms on the primary windings.
http://www.bobcat.ca/stuff/DOCS/DURATR~1.PDF
http://www.bobcat.ca/stuff/DOCS/DURATR~1.PDF
FTE Legend
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Yep. Haven't found the #'s in either the shop manual or the EVTM. I do have two of them on the shelf and both measure exactly the same depending on which DVM I use. One gives 1.1 ohm, another gives 1.2, and the third gives 1.7 ohm. And all of that is taking into account the reading given with the leads touched together subtracted from the reading for the coils.
Oops - You beat me back. Sounds like my coils are right in the middle. Ok, thanks.
Oops - You beat me back. Sounds like my coils are right in the middle. Ok, thanks.
Cargo Master
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
...And, I will run a Ford DS-II ignition box, but will probably run a hotter coil than stock.
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
...Hotter as in a higher ratio. Haven't settled on one, but one of the E-coils was suggested.
FTE Legend
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Thanks. But that would suggest the only coil that will keep from frying the module is the original coil. However, as long as you keep the resistance of the primary within the capability of the module it isn't going to cause the module any problems. So, going with one that has the same primary resistance but a much larger number of secondary windings will give higher secondary voltage w/o causing more current to the module.
Yes, Jim will jump in and say that the greater transfer ratio will cause more inrush current and he's right, but that is just a quick burst of power that doesn't generate much heat, and the heat is the killer for the module. So, if you keep the inrush within reason you can go with a hotter coil w/o frying the module.
Yes, Jim will jump in and say that the greater transfer ratio will cause more inrush current and he's right, but that is just a quick burst of power that doesn't generate much heat, and the heat is the killer for the module. So, if you keep the inrush within reason you can go with a hotter coil w/o frying the module.
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