Okay, what's the deal? I did a search for a year back and nothing on warped front discs. Am I the only one with this issue?? It has been a constant problem over the 8 years I've owned the B II. Just had the front brakes replaced (new rotors, ceramic pads) about 8K ago, and already I've got a strong shudder when braking. Is there a solution? I swear I know how to drive, I don't ride the pedal, I don't brake hard any more than I have to, what am I doing wrong?

BTW, 89 BII 4X4 w/ 260K

 

Two words"ceramic pads"! Get your rotors turned and go with a good semi matilic pad,that is the best Pad for your truck .The materail in the rotor is not made for ceramic pads, it get them to hot {the rotors}. I found this out the hard way to. good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply, but I swear I've had it happen with the standard non-ceramic pads too. Maybe I should go to the stealership to get the factory parts.?!?

 

Just finished replacing the brakes on my b11....rear ones I did myself....Front brakes looked like a nightmare so I took it in. Needed one new rotor (scored and warped) drivers side and two new calipers (rebuilt) 385.00 eeek......

 

If you are having constant problems with warping rotors you may have more happening than just "hard braking"
1) are you certain that the calipers are releasing? If they are a bit slow about releasing a couple things to check; is it really the calipers or is it the booster unit adjustment ? If extension rod in booster is adjusted a bit too long it will cause brakes to "drag a bit" This would be first place to look if either booster or master cylinder has EVER been replaced.

2) Is pedal returning to top, against rubber stop? If not it too can cause dragging.

3) Are calipers able to float in their mounts? Take calipers off and visually check mount points. If smooth and shiny lubricate with either white lithium grease or never-sieze.If rusty and rough caliper will hold pressure on rotor. Clean and polish back to smooth, apply lube.

4)Doyou ride with your foot poised and ready to mash pedal?

5) Don't remember seeing a signature line, is this an automatic or manual? Automatics are inherently harder on brakes, especially if idle is too high.

My BII was eating rotors also a few years back, I found that if I bought a better grade of rotor from NAPA instead of autozone or Advance Auto that the majority of the problem went away. Don't have rotors resurfaced, there is too little metal there as a new unit to safely dissipate the heat, turning or truing them makes them even thinner and less able to shed excess heat.
Driving style does play a large part of life of brakes also, my 96 PSD F250 has 201k miles on it with original rotors, and original rear brakes. My BII has over 295k miles on it, at least 100k on the NAPA rotors and semi-metallic pads.
My wifes BII only gets about 25kmiles on a set of brakes, she drives in town a lot more than me(frequent Wal-Mart trips you know),her full size Bronco does a little better.

 

rmyers, thanks for the reply, here goes....

1) Calipers are releasing fine, I've had one not release before on another car, so I know what it feels like. I'm pretty confident this isn't the problem.

2)Yep, pedal is popping back up just fine. No problem.

3)Done this many times. Slides clean enough to eat off of, and well lubed.

4) Absolutely not!

5)Automatic, I know it's tougher on brakes than a manual.

6) Driving Environment may be a big issue. Stop and go everyday in Atlanta traffic is my BII's everyday life.

I'm switching to factory Ford Pads with new rotors to see if it is the ceramic pads causing this.

 

Another thing to check is to make sure your rear wheel cylinders are not frozen. When I ran a brake shop , Ford had a common problem where the wheel cylinders would freeze up and put excess pressure on the front brakes. If you try and stop a 4200 lb vehicle with only front brakes, those rotors will heat up in a hurry. Also, never use anything other than silicone grease ( I recommend sylglide) on any slides with rubber, anything else, including lithium grease and anti seize will make the rubber swell when combined with heat.

 

Excellent point, I had a Mustang with one rear that would stick every once in a while, replaced both rear cylinders and fronts quit wearing away in just days.

 

My truck shudders when braking sometimes too, but it doesn't quit stopping, and it doesn't bother me any. I oughta go check 'em out to see if there's anything wrong, though. Then again, since I've owned the truck (about 3 months I'd say) I've had to constantly hard brake and slam 'em because of the people around here who CAN'T DRIVE and cause me to almost hit them.

 

Look for drilled/ slotted rotors. This solved the problem on my F150 with larger tires. I believe the brand was Raybestos, I ordered them at Pep Boys.
Mark

 

You said you installed new rotors? Did you have them turned? New off the shelf rotors are warped when you buy them. Its caused from not being stored properly.

Don't use drilled rotors. The crack around the holes.

On ceramic pads, I think there is a process to get them to seat. Im not sure what it is though. I remember a few classic Camaro guys talking about shuddering until they went through the process.

 

Drilled rotors crack around the holes?? Mine are about 5 years old with over 70,000 miles. They were turned once at the last brake job. They have been stopping 33" tires for 4 years and 35's for almost a year now with no warping, cracking, etc. These are the ONLY rotors that have not warped on my truck, I've tried factory ones and the "best" ones from NAPA.
If I remember correctly the line is "Brute Stop" from Raybestos. I use the Raybestos pads that are recommended. The rotors were over $100 each. Well worth the money. Maybe the "Made in China" rotors crack, i don't know.
Mark

 

Let me re-word that. They can crack. The holes are the weak point. A slotted rotor is stronger than a cross drilled one.

 

Ive got cross-drilled rotors on my Passat, have had for over 50K, no cracks, no warped rotors.

Does anyone know of a vendor who makes slotted ot drilled rotors for the BII? I haven't been able to find any.

 

As mjb said, Napa carries the Raybestos Brute Stops.