MAP sensor troubles ... but no map sensor
Did you properly clean the terminals on your ecu.
What do you mean "swap the injectors". Are you swapping them side to side, or going bigger. Side to side is a good start, but I thought maf trucks were sequential efi and not batch fire. So one whole side being dead, to me, means power issue. I don't remember but I think watch bank has it's own power supply.
But if you mean swap injectors, as in put bigger ones, your new chip means nothing now.
I'd say check connection of chip to ecu, then check power to injectors.
Easy enough to test and without having to remove the plenum to do it, reach in unplug #1 injector. Connect meter or test light to red wire of its connector turn the key to run, if it doesn't have power to it it's likely the three behind it don't either.
We are safe in the assumption that you do have spark at those four cylinders, you checked it out it is 100% fuel related?
+1 on this "chip" too, is it some "off the shelf" best guess based on info/exact spec's you provided? or a "one size fits all" performance type model instead?
EGR and NS wouldn't have been an issue, eliminated or not would not be related to your issues. Yea if you can program them out while your at it hey why not but same time wouldn't be necessary either if in the end wasn't possible with what you have to work with.
as for the chip. i gave motorvation all of my engines specs and vehicle info and they made the chip for me. its not dyno tuned but it accounts for the cam, cubes and compression. it also got rid of the egr and knock sensor codes.
Good you found a place to burn a chip for your specs, how much was it.
How did you prep the chip connection before plugging it in.
Hmmm
Next would be making sure the wiring is ok. Make sure nothing got pinched and everything is plugged in all the way.
Remove the chip run it enough to build heat in the left side header, wouldn't take much run time, does the right side get hot?
If both sides build heat without the chip but only one side with it, that'd tend to suggest the chip as the cause of the problem.
Thermo gun would be handy but if don't have one you'll be able to tell easy enough just by grasping header tubes right up near the head both banks and for each cylinder to see if its firing in any given cylinder or not. Headers are thin walled compared to factory manifolds and naturally each of them separate from one another, you'll be able to feel/detect temperature changes with your hand, if there is any change, in each of the tubes rather quick faster than a thermo gun in fact.
Good you found a place to burn a chip for your specs, how much was it.
How did you prep the chip connection before plugging it in.
Hmmm
Next would be making sure the wiring is ok. Make sure nothing got pinched and everything is plugged in all the way.
I follow the instructions and took the entire ECU out and cleaned all of the connections with the provided pad. also used a cue tip and a little alcohol (90%) to make sure each connection was 100 clean and grease free. The chip does seem to make it run better then it did which is saying a lot considering its only running on 4 cylinders.
I disconnected the engine harness and used a tiny copper wire brush to clean each connection both male and female. still same issue. its raining like crazy here today so i doubt i will get any more done.
I am half tempted to just take it to a shop to have them diagnose what is wrong because I have replaced just about every part.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
This is the module and a that empty spot is where the custom tuned chip goes. he has sent me 2 variations already but neither seem to fix the issue. I did notice there was not any carbon build up on the plugs this time on the passenger side where as there was a ton the last time. i need to do some more tests to see if i really was only firing on the one bank prior to the chip.

Motorvation Custom Tuning | Motorvation
As a side note, I am referring to gas vehicles, not diesel.
What made you choose them, is there no local dyno shop that can burn you a chip.
It's good you bought a tunable chip. I was worried you bought something crappy that was generic.
What made you choose them, is there no local dyno shop that can burn you a chip.
It's good you bought a tunable chip. I was worried you bought something crappy that was generic.
Sounds like more going on there then can help with in this forum, not sure hitting on all eight or when just doesn't have full grasp of how system works yet etc. Really needs someone there close by that can work with him get running right as built.
Other option would be swap out the cam for a computer friendly model, one doesn't require a chip.
Might be the better option for the bigbluebomb, a motor that doesn't require "mad skills" to tune it, just to get it running and or to have a decent runner nor lots of time and money to pay for same.
Computer friendly cam it'd still run decent put out reasonable amounts of power yet be something he can work on and without special equipment/tools.
If not has a huge learning curve ahead of him, fine if understands that wants to learn it all and is in no hurry to get it done.






