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Well I know the brakes were working with my dad's truck, so the trailer should be OK, but I have no idea about the controller in my truck. This electric brake stuff is weird to me, only trailers I've driven have been over 40' long and had air brakes.
Your test procedure is actually something I always do with a heavy truck as well, though that's to check that the kingpin is locked no so much that the trailer brakes are working (though it does that too).
That's how I got my start, driving big trucks. Now I do inspections on vehicles, including post collision inspections. I once inspected a pickup/equipment trailer with electric brakes and rear ended a car and killed the driver of the car. The gain on the brake controller in the pickup (f250 with the built in system) was set to 0. Even with it adjusted to max, trailer brakes still didn't adequately function. They were tested using two different trucks. My testimony in court meant the driver of the pickup was charged with felony manslaughter because I was able to show that his trailer brakes were not well maintained. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR BRAKES.
I check my brakes that way when I hook up a loaded trailer - every time.
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Always a good idea to check after plugging in. I hope, we all make it a point to check before starting out also.
With the built in controller, the gain lines show green when hooked up properly with contact. If it's not reading the trailer properly, the gain lines on the controller show RED.
I didn't realize this difference until I tested and didn't have brakes upon start up.
Now I plug in and out my 7 pin, 4-5 times to ensure good contact before testing.
Now it simplifies, seeing the gain lines Green to ensure contact. Test after anyways to ensure we're good to go.
On the controller itself, there should be a slider mechanism that you can slide with your hand. That applies the trailer brakes independent of the truck. In a suitable location, put your truck in drive, slide the thing on the controller, and take your foot off the brake. The trailer brakes should hold you back. If not, adjust the gain (a dial or buttons) up until you get some resistance from the trailer brakes. If nothing still, either the trailer brakes are out of adjustment or you are not getting power to the plug at the back of the truck. That should be part of a pre-trip inspection EVERY TIME the trailer hits the road.
Well, the slider worked, but the brakes didn't work driving on the road... Need to double check the level adjustment, but looking like a new brake controller is in order. It's supposed to be inertia controlled.
Well, the slider worked, but the brakes didn't work driving on the road... Need to double check the level adjustment, but looking like a new brake controller is in order. It's supposed to be inertia controlled.
Before buying a new one check the brand and model. Some have lifetime warranties.
Failed brake controllers are a real anomaly so be sure to check the settings. The liability issue is huge if a controller fails, so usually what you see is erratic action rather than complete failure. Not saying it can't happen. It just isn't common. Might check the red feed to the controller to make sure it is signaling the brake controller when the whoa pedal is pushed and stopping hard. If there is no signal, a new controller will not fix the problem. Just a thought.
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