Radio wiring
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Radio wiring
When I got a hold of my 77 f150 custom, I came without a radio but it has a square 9 prong connector in the dash most likely not stock? I just ordered a stereo to put in but I'm not sure on what the wires are on the current connector, could someone give me some info?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
That's going to be some custom connector from a radio manufacturer. Pioneer, JVC, etc. all have their own custom pigtail that comes with radios that you splice into factory wiring (and in the case of these trucks, run additional wiring). Unless the previous radio in this truck happens to be the same manufacturer as your new radio, and the pigtail was installed correctly in the first place, you should peel everything back to original and start over. I wouldn't add onto this pigtail because you would be splicing on top of a splice.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,186
Likes: 5,792
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
The Radio light wire is Blue w/red stripe
The black/yellow stripe wire is the power wire
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...io-wiring.html
More info I found...
The OEM radio was powered by a GREEN 2-terminal pigtail. YELLOW with a BLACK stripe is switched power, BLUE with RED stripe is dash illumination. Do not mistake the BLUE with RED stripe wire for ground. The OEM radio grounded through its mounting chassis. The speakers were connected over a separate pigtail.
The black/yellow stripe wire is the power wire
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...io-wiring.html
More info I found...
The OEM radio was powered by a GREEN 2-terminal pigtail. YELLOW with a BLACK stripe is switched power, BLUE with RED stripe is dash illumination. Do not mistake the BLUE with RED stripe wire for ground. The OEM radio grounded through its mounting chassis. The speakers were connected over a separate pigtail.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
there are two wires that go to the ignition wireing harness behind the wheel. I put my voltage meter on the two and was getting 12 volts, Is this the correct wire to use for the radio power? It was only getting power when the key was in the on position.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
For My constant +12v Wire, I replaced the cigarette lighter with one that had both a spade connector, as well as the factory connector, Reconnected the factory wire to the factory connector, then used the spade connector for a point to connect my constant +12v. this way it's also fused through the courtesy fuse in the event of a short.
If you're planning on going loud, here's whats worked for me in the past. Solder each connection together, and cover individually with heat shrink tubing. once you have all your wires, wrap the whole bundle in electrical tape, well past the splices on either end.
If you're planning on going loud, here's whats worked for me in the past. Solder each connection together, and cover individually with heat shrink tubing. once you have all your wires, wrap the whole bundle in electrical tape, well past the splices on either end.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,186
Likes: 5,792
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I would not look for any constant hot wire from anything that has to do with the headlights. They are on a wiring set up that is not the best design anyway.
Look for a yellow 3 holed plug behind the left side of the dash, or that might be keyed power, I am not sure.
See the PDF attachment see 18C617 where is has a circle around it? And it shows a 2 arrow lines going to a 3 hole plug? It it at the steering column V support bracket, ck it for constant power?
Cig lighter is constant power.
Look for a yellow 3 holed plug behind the left side of the dash, or that might be keyed power, I am not sure.
See the PDF attachment see 18C617 where is has a circle around it? And it shows a 2 arrow lines going to a 3 hole plug? It it at the steering column V support bracket, ck it for constant power?
Cig lighter is constant power.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
No, steer clear of the headlights. GREEN with YELLOW stripe wiring is hot-at-all-times power for the courtesy lamp circuit. Use that. There is a 3-connector pigtail behind the glovebox (which also goes on to power the cigarette lighter). The connector in the picture above is hot-in-ACC keyed accessory power.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I'm telling you what specific wire colors you must use. It doesn't work the other way around - you pick wires and have me answer yes/no. I already explained that the pigtail the PO left was for a previous aftermarket radio, and should be removed such that you can start over.
The aforementioned pigtail IS there, but you may not see it by peeking under the dash. You may have to loosen the glove box.
The aforementioned pigtail IS there, but you may not see it by peeking under the dash. You may have to loosen the glove box.