New to the site, but not to Fords. Here is my Ranger.

First off, the truck started as a bone stock XLT with power everything but seats.
Here is a run through of what all I have done to it

Wheels/Tires, Axles, Steering, Steering, and Suspension
-36x14.50-R15 Super Swamper TSLs on 15x10 steelies, 35x12.50 Goodyear Kevlars for road duty
-SAS with EB Dana 44 spooled, Chromo 760x shafts, converted to disc brakes w/ F150 knuckles, Warn lockouts, 4.09's, 6.5" XJ coils, and 1.5" DOM steering linkage
-Hydro Assist w/ removable steering cylinder
-Homemade extended shock towers and modified RBV coil buckets w/ internal bumpstop
-Homemade radius arms with 1.25" Johnny Joint ends
-Explorer 31 Spline 8.8 w/ lock-rite locker, disc brakes, 4.10's, 1/4" Steel cover,trussed, welded tubes, and Dutchman 5x5.5 axles
-5.5" Chevy rear leaf springs
-2" Chevy lowering shackles
-Single traction bar w/ shackle
-PS cooler
-PS spin on filter
-Saginaw PS Pump
-1qt+ External PS resi
-'98+ one piece rear drive shaft (shortened for doubler)
Brakes
-'78 Thunderbird Front calipers
-'02 F150 Lightning rear calipers
-'98 Super Duty Hydroboost
-1-Ton brake master
-ABS removed (not unplugged, but completely removed and plug depinned)
Transmission, Transfer case(s)
-Hybrid M50D Transmission (4.0 trans w/ 2.5 gear ratios)
-Homemade billet aluminum short throw (15% shorter throw than a Hurst)
-Manual Tcase swap w/ BW1354
-1350/1354 Doubler
Engine, Cooling
-Comp Cams 422 cam and dual valve springs
-Smith Bros Pushrods and hardened Delta rockers
-Engine oil cooler
-Straight piped w/ cats still
-Pacesetter Headers
-66mm BBK TB
-Homebrewed High-Idle setup
-Cartridge style fuel filter housing
-Homemade snorkel w/ pre-cleaner
Exterior, Body Armor
-Homemade HD front and rear bumpers, tailgate, and backrack w/ LED taillights
-Boxed/reinforced frame horns
-Aluminum belly skid
-Tree/Rock sliders
-Homemade tubed core support
-Thunder bolt mirror glass w/ LED turn signals
-Explorer mirrors w/ puddle lights
-Clear corner lights
-'03 Tail lights
-'93 4x4 grille w/ Yellow Ford emblem
-Removable mirrors
-20% Window Tint
Interior
-Pillar pod w/ Autometer UltraliteII Oil pressure and Voltage gauges
-Homemade dual pod on column w/ Autometer UltraLiteII wideband and temp gauge
-Explorer full length center console, dual lighted sun visors, and overhead console
-FX4 LvlII Seats
-FX4 LvlII silver gauge cluster & HVAC panel
-Rubber Floor
Electrical, Lighting
-130w KC Daylighters
-2 130w KC 69 Series
-Dual Optima batteries
-Aux fuse box for lights, horn, etc.
-2 Memphis 10" Subs
-Memphis 1100w amp
-Pioneer Head unit and speakers
-CB
Misc.
-On-Board-Air
-150A 12V disconnects
-receiver mounted Warn M8000 winch
-Remote Battery terminals
-High mount breather manifold for Transfer case, Doubler, and rear axle.
Next thing on the list is to dove the bed, and truss the 44, then maybe 4.88s
Supercharged engine build is currently in the parts gathering phase, but it will be a while before the truck goes down for open heart surgery. I am going to wheel it this spring/summer since the truck seems to hold its own in its current state.
I think the truck earned the Ranger "Custom" emblems
I built this whole truck while working a full time job and paying my way through college, so bear with me. Its been a leaning process with plenty of trial and error.
It wanted a truck that was streetable and comfortable, so I can cruise an hour or two to go wheelin' and still be dependable enough to drive home.
6-1-13

Thanks for looking

Fall 13




3-1-14



If anyone wants see something up close or more pictures..let me know I have tons of build pics

 

You've been busy on this puppy, but where is the winch????

 

I have Warn M8000 mounted on a plate that slips into the 2" receiver, that way I can use it on front or rear. I am thinking of building a new front bumper that can house a winch and still keep a decent approach angle.

 

i like the winch idea, just move it to the end needed when needed, then have it off out of the weather when you dont need it.

 

The biggest reason for keeping it removable was just that...since I still DD the truck in the summer I would like to keep the cable out of the weather.

 

Nice username and ranger. Please explain your transfer case doubler

 

Basically, the doubler is a gearbox added between the transmission and the stock transfer case.

The gearbox contains an identical planerary and shifter as the stock case. This adds another 2.48:1 gear reduction to the entire drive line speed.

 

I mean how did you stack them? I've looked all over and could find no info on stacking Borg warner t-cases

 

Here is some cut a paste from the 4 year ordeal.lol. I would work on it for a few days and put it back on the shelf for a year.lol

Chopped a 1350 and welded filler plates in.

I used my uncles mill to get the filler pieces I welded in the sit flush with the case so it will contact the plate evenly.


I also got the shaft made, I turned the tranny output shaft down and pressed it into the tcase shaft. I made it about .005” interference fit, so the press fit held it straight when I welded it.


(I ended up buying a one price shaft from Duffy Machine for peace of mind. He used to sell complete 1350/54 kits.)


I used a mill an rotating table toake the 5" hole. I just need to counter sink a few holes so I can clock the t case where I want it, then drill the five mounting holes for it.

Then it's time to trim down the plate and put it together.




Clearanced the front cover of the rear case to clear the bolt heads. I used a roughing end mill to hog it out. Looks cleaner than a grinder imo

Before



After




I also drilled the pilot holes for the 5 mounting bolts. I plan to counter sink the bolt heads so they sit flush and don't interfere with the front case, and this way I don't have to depend on 5 bolts threaded into only a 1/2 plate. They will actually thread over an inch into the case.







Assembled the doubler.



Here are some pics of the shifter mock up. Never took a finished pic.

High


Low


2 high


4 high


4 low