'71 f100 electrical help,
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New User
Joined: Mar 2014
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thanks jeff,
i'm leaning towards it being the voltage regulator being shot. makes sense, since it was so close to the alternator and thats where the short occurred.
also, if my research is correct that battery looking mystery item is a noise suppressor for the alternator. to stop feedback to the stereo and such
i'm leaning towards it being the voltage regulator being shot. makes sense, since it was so close to the alternator and thats where the short occurred.
also, if my research is correct that battery looking mystery item is a noise suppressor for the alternator. to stop feedback to the stereo and such
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The yellow runs to the voltage regulator (i believe) then leaves in a clip to the cab (all the clip plugs work). there is one part of the clip that has one yellow out and one yellow to this AA battery sized thing (capacitor) that grounds from the regulator. when i run the light from that part of the clip i get continuity to the yellow wire in the ignition plug.
So my question now is... is the AA battery sized thing blown? is the voltage regulator fried?
So my question now is... is the AA battery sized thing blown? is the voltage regulator fried?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 64
ok. so. i traced the three wires that go towards the ignition and ran a test light on all.
what i've found is this, both wires running off of the small studs ("s" and "i") have continuity to the ignition.
the yellow power wire that comes of the "pos" terminal is good to ignition except for the thick yellow wire to at ignition switch. so i dug a bit deeper.
the yellow runs to the voltage regulator (i believe) then leaves in a clip to the cab (all the clip plugs work). there is one part of the clip that has one yellow out and one yellow to this AA battery sized thing that grounds from the regulator. when i run the light from that part of the clip i get continuity to the yellow wire in the ignition plug.
so my question now is... is the AA battery sized thing blown? is the voltage regulator fried?
what i've found is this, both wires running off of the small studs ("s" and "i") have continuity to the ignition.
the yellow power wire that comes of the "pos" terminal is good to ignition except for the thick yellow wire to at ignition switch. so i dug a bit deeper.
the yellow runs to the voltage regulator (i believe) then leaves in a clip to the cab (all the clip plugs work). there is one part of the clip that has one yellow out and one yellow to this AA battery sized thing that grounds from the regulator. when i run the light from that part of the clip i get continuity to the yellow wire in the ignition plug.
so my question now is... is the AA battery sized thing blown? is the voltage regulator fried?
can you check for voltage with the test light you bought, or is it strictly a continuity tester?
if it will light with voltage, start at the solinoid and test that yellow wire until you lose juice, that is your bad component. Most likely that fusable link. If it only does continuity check both ends of the yellow wire, it should have continuity all the way.
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embarrassingl, i found it.
the black wire running off the solenoid pos has a fixed fusible link that was showing continuity all 4 times i checked it. i checked it again today for 12vs and nada. cut out the link and connected the ends and power to the cab. so i added a 25amp fuse and cleaned it all up.
so thats fixed.
now when i crank it over i am getting the stater to click, but not 12v to the distributor/coil combo on my 302.
i believe there is enough gas, i know the turbos can suck in enough air. just wondering why i can't get enough fire. such a bummer, this truck fired up no problem before i stupidly ground everything out.
thanks again for all the help guys, you've all be awesome
the black wire running off the solenoid pos has a fixed fusible link that was showing continuity all 4 times i checked it. i checked it again today for 12vs and nada. cut out the link and connected the ends and power to the cab. so i added a 25amp fuse and cleaned it all up.
so thats fixed.
now when i crank it over i am getting the stater to click, but not 12v to the distributor/coil combo on my 302.
i believe there is enough gas, i know the turbos can suck in enough air. just wondering why i can't get enough fire. such a bummer, this truck fired up no problem before i stupidly ground everything out.
thanks again for all the help guys, you've all be awesome
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Just think how good you'll feel when you find the troubles and how much smarter you'll be after you keep going over this wiring issues when you finally figure this all out.
Then you can proudly say hot damn! I fixed the SOB why did, I think of that before..
Then you'll be on the other side giving out advise to newbies needing your help..
Your closer then you think getting it figured out.
Good luck young man!
orich
Then you can proudly say hot damn! I fixed the SOB why did, I think of that before..
Then you'll be on the other side giving out advise to newbies needing your help..
Your closer then you think getting it figured out.
Good luck young man!
orich
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 64
embarrassingl, i found it.
the black wire running off the solenoid pos has a fixed fusible link that was showing continuity all 4 times i checked it. i checked it again today for 12vs and nada. cut out the link and connected the ends and power to the cab. so i added a 25amp fuse and cleaned it all up.
so thats fixed.
now when i crank it over i am getting the stater to click, but not 12v to the distributor/coil combo on my 302.
i believe there is enough gas, i know the turbos can suck in enough air. just wondering why i can't get enough fire. such a bummer, this truck fired up no problem before i stupidly ground everything out.
thanks again for all the help guys, you've all be awesome
the black wire running off the solenoid pos has a fixed fusible link that was showing continuity all 4 times i checked it. i checked it again today for 12vs and nada. cut out the link and connected the ends and power to the cab. so i added a 25amp fuse and cleaned it all up.
so thats fixed.
now when i crank it over i am getting the stater to click, but not 12v to the distributor/coil combo on my 302.
i believe there is enough gas, i know the turbos can suck in enough air. just wondering why i can't get enough fire. such a bummer, this truck fired up no problem before i stupidly ground everything out.
thanks again for all the help guys, you've all be awesome
is the engine cranking over, or is the solinoid clicking and nothing else is happening?
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sorry. bit sleep deprived with the newborn.
the solenoid is clicking and the stater is engaging. the carb is working freely as well and i'm not so worried about air since its a turbo. so that leaves spark thats missing.
i've wired it through the original wiring (brown meets pink resist wire and turns into reg-green) and wired it directly to the solenoid. neither works.
so tomorrow morning i plan on wiring it directly to the battery pos and attempting to start the truck. that will let me know if my new solenoid(it is getting 12v to the stud but not to the HEI dist. wire is new too) is bad or if the ignition module is faulty.
this one little shorting sure is creating a bunch of extra work. on the plus side, i know a ton more about my tuck.
the solenoid is clicking and the stater is engaging. the carb is working freely as well and i'm not so worried about air since its a turbo. so that leaves spark thats missing.
i've wired it through the original wiring (brown meets pink resist wire and turns into reg-green) and wired it directly to the solenoid. neither works.
so tomorrow morning i plan on wiring it directly to the battery pos and attempting to start the truck. that will let me know if my new solenoid(it is getting 12v to the stud but not to the HEI dist. wire is new too) is bad or if the ignition module is faulty.
this one little shorting sure is creating a bunch of extra work. on the plus side, i know a ton more about my tuck.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
sorry. bit sleep deprived with the newborn.
the solenoid is clicking and the stater is engaging. the carb is working freely as well and i'm not so worried about air since its a turbo. so that leaves spark thats missing.
i've wired it through the original wiring (brown meets pink resist wire and turns into reg-green) and wired it directly to the solenoid. neither works.
so tomorrow morning i plan on wiring it directly to the battery pos and attempting to start the truck. that will let me know if my new solenoid(it is getting 12v to the stud but not to the HEI dist. wire is new too) is bad or if the ignition module is faulty.
this one little shorting sure is creating a bunch of extra work. on the plus side, i know a ton more about my tuck.
the solenoid is clicking and the stater is engaging. the carb is working freely as well and i'm not so worried about air since its a turbo. so that leaves spark thats missing.
i've wired it through the original wiring (brown meets pink resist wire and turns into reg-green) and wired it directly to the solenoid. neither works.
so tomorrow morning i plan on wiring it directly to the battery pos and attempting to start the truck. that will let me know if my new solenoid(it is getting 12v to the stud but not to the HEI dist. wire is new too) is bad or if the ignition module is faulty.
this one little shorting sure is creating a bunch of extra work. on the plus side, i know a ton more about my tuck.
Yea bypass everything by going straight to the battery.Later Set up a relay to the batt. or run a 10 ga wire to your key switch when running a HEI dizzys
orich
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question on the solenoid.
when the truck is off, the multimeter reads 12v on the "s" and the "i". thats with using the pos to read the post and the neg on the battery neg.
with the truck turned to run, the multimeter the "s" reads 12v but with the neg on the post and the pos on the batter pos. the "i" is the same as when the truck is off.
is that correct? or what am i missing?
i directly jumped the coil to the batter and that didn't do anything. i also had the coil tested and replaced it just in case. nothing
when the truck is off, the multimeter reads 12v on the "s" and the "i". thats with using the pos to read the post and the neg on the battery neg.
with the truck turned to run, the multimeter the "s" reads 12v but with the neg on the post and the pos on the batter pos. the "i" is the same as when the truck is off.
is that correct? or what am i missing?
i directly jumped the coil to the batter and that didn't do anything. i also had the coil tested and replaced it just in case. nothing
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
question on the solenoid.
when the truck is off, the multimeter reads 12v on the "s" and the "i". thats with using the pos to read the post and the neg on the battery neg.
with the truck turned to run, the multimeter the "s" reads 12v but with the neg on the post and the pos on the batter pos. the "i" is the same as when the truck is off.
is that correct? or what am i missing?
i directly jumped the coil to the batter and that didn't do anything. i also had the coil tested and replaced it just in case. nothing
when the truck is off, the multimeter reads 12v on the "s" and the "i". thats with using the pos to read the post and the neg on the battery neg.
with the truck turned to run, the multimeter the "s" reads 12v but with the neg on the post and the pos on the batter pos. the "i" is the same as when the truck is off.
is that correct? or what am i missing?
i directly jumped the coil to the batter and that didn't do anything. i also had the coil tested and replaced it just in case. nothing
Anyways, it sounds like your solenoid is bad. Get a GOOD quality one. Not a made in china thing. This is how it works. When you turn to the "start" position of the ignition switch it sends 12v to the "s" terminal on the solenoid. This activates it much like energizing a relay. When the solenoid is energized it sends battery 12V out to the starter and out the "I" terminal to the coil.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
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dcaudet, I think you are not testing correctly. The results you are getting shouldn't be right.
#1 DO me a favor, take the black lead from your multimeter and put it on the (neg) post.
connect the red lead to the (pos) post. your meter should read (12 +) if it does , go to #2
#2 leave the black lead on that terminal, never move it until we fix the truck.
#3 put the red lead on a clean place on the engine , make sure it's clean metal, scrape it to make sure and tell me what you get.
Jeff and Orich, hold off until he responds to this, we're getting nowhere with his testing.
#1 DO me a favor, take the black lead from your multimeter and put it on the (neg) post.
connect the red lead to the (pos) post. your meter should read (12 +) if it does , go to #2
#2 leave the black lead on that terminal, never move it until we fix the truck.
#3 put the red lead on a clean place on the engine , make sure it's clean metal, scrape it to make sure and tell me what you get.
Jeff and Orich, hold off until he responds to this, we're getting nowhere with his testing.
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