Vacuum Pump ?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
you could check fuses. Fuse #27 (15 amp) is the one for pump and auxiliary heater control and brake shift interlock. Have you noticed other components not working too? It's best to resolve pump issue as brakes rely on pump for vacuum since engine doesn't produce it. Here's a pic of connector. Make sure ground is good and power key on run only.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 5
I think his truck should have a hydroboost which gets assist from the power steering pump,no vacuum used on these brake systems
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
I thought that was only on the 6.0 setup.... now I'm curious... been a while since I've touched a 7.3 ;-)
thanks Cropharvester! You are right....after 90 something, the electric pumps are mainly for Heater and climate control or engaging front hubs for 4x4
thanks Cropharvester! You are right....after 90 something, the electric pumps are mainly for Heater and climate control or engaging front hubs for 4x4
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
You should be able to disconnect the vacuum lines from the vacuum reservoir, then with the vacuum pressure dissipated the pump should run (with key on). If not, then pump is probably bad, though I'd also check fuses.
If pump does run, then there's an abundance of info on leaks occurring at the 4x4 hub seals, or cracked vacuum lines at the front 4x4.
In my case, I have a leak at the heater/ac selector switch. Any leak of the vacuum, anywhere, will cause pump to run continually.
A no-run pump is probably a fuse, bad pump, or indicates that vacuum has been met and the pump has automatically shut off until more vacuum is needed.
If pump does run, then there's an abundance of info on leaks occurring at the 4x4 hub seals, or cracked vacuum lines at the front 4x4.
In my case, I have a leak at the heater/ac selector switch. Any leak of the vacuum, anywhere, will cause pump to run continually.
A no-run pump is probably a fuse, bad pump, or indicates that vacuum has been met and the pump has automatically shut off until more vacuum is needed.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 373
Likes: 5
From: Evergreen Colorado
Fuse 27 is good.
Pulled vacuum line to the res with key on and cycled 4x4 switch and HVAC controls. No pump sounds.
Then checked for power at the pump. It has power.
Looks like Im replacing the vacuum pump. Should I go with OEM or will Advanced Auto be sufficient?
Thanks for the help guys.
Pulled vacuum line to the res with key on and cycled 4x4 switch and HVAC controls. No pump sounds.
Then checked for power at the pump. It has power.
Looks like Im replacing the vacuum pump. Should I go with OEM or will Advanced Auto be sufficient?
Thanks for the help guys.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,356
Likes: 593
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Oh, sweet! I didn't even think to ask them if they'd match. That would sure beat waiting for shipping.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: joliet il
i had a issue up there with a new guy selling me wrong part and the guy that knows me tried to make mends and pulled up a screen for price match and rock auto was on the list just make sure to bring proof of price and make sure its exactly the same part numbers and supplier and you should have no issue , now i know he can do this i hit him with it all the time lol
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 373
Likes: 5
From: Evergreen Colorado
Couldn't wait for shipping and paid full price. $90.
Good news is it fixed my problem.
Thanks FTE