Differential Seal
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Differential Seal
03 exp xlt 4.6 Any pic's and tips on changing out the seal to differential . I have a leak where the drive shaft marries into the diff. Saw on site where they indicate that u have to re-tighten nut to a specific number. Thanks!
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Mark the nut and pinion shaft with a punch, back off the nut and count the turns. Remove the flange, replace the seal, and then reinstall the flange. Now install the nut the exact number of turns it took to remove it, right up until the marks you made line up. You're done.
Fleet Owner
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If the noise is coming from the compressor area, then yes it sounds like a bearing in the compressor, not the bearing for the clutch.
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Yes noise is diffiently coming from this area I've replaced two of the idler pulleys only ones left would be the tension idler pulley and the one right above it.I think that the latter one is to far away noise is closer to bottom.With 180k maybe it might be that tension pulley under load too much for the bearings. If compressor bearing would it be cheaper to do bearing vs replace the hole smash (understanding a full re-charge is needed in both cases) .Man the wealth of knowledge and experience on the site priceless.
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Get a 3'x7/16" wooden dowel from your local hardware store. With the engine running, touch one end of the dowel at the base (non-moving) area of any place with a bearing, and hold your ear against the other end of the dowel. (Naturally don't stick it in your ear.) Any noise a bearing generates will travel up the dowel to your ear. This makes it very easy to hear a noisy bearing.
Mountain Pass
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From: Albuquerque
If it only makes noise when compressor is engaged I would say it needs a new compressor.
Oddly enough when the front seal of my 97 started leaking I found it cost the same for me to replace the compressor as have a shop replace the seal. My guess is replacing a bearing inside the compressor will not make sense.
To be earth friendly first visit an A/C shop to have your freon sucked out so it can be recycled.
Oddly enough when the front seal of my 97 started leaking I found it cost the same for me to replace the compressor as have a shop replace the seal. My guess is replacing a bearing inside the compressor will not make sense.
To be earth friendly first visit an A/C shop to have your freon sucked out so it can be recycled.
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Thanks again to all.I'll check into that McGyver stethoscope alloro.Rock auto has a compressor and component kit which includes o-rings receiver dryer,and expansion valve.How many of u feel this is necessary to change when replacing just compressor/bearing.(its about 40 o-rings in kit!)
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From: tampa bay area
Mark the nut and pinion shaft with a punch, back off the nut and count the turns. Remove the flange, replace the seal, and then reinstall the flange. Now install the nut the exact number of turns it took to remove it, right up until the marks you made line up. You're done.
When putting the flange back on the pinion I highly recommend you coat the splines of the pinion with RTV Gray. The gray part of that is important because it is made for high torque applications. When I first replaced mine I didn't put anything on the splines and gear oil started creeping up the splines and leaking out during operation. A mechanic friend of mine is the one who told me about the RTV gray and it hasn't leaked a drop since I pulled everything back apart and coated the splines with the stuff.
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